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Gauge install


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#1 Danny_mc94

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Posted 11 December 2013 - 03:21 PM

hey guys i got some auto meter gauges the other day and no problems installing the boost and water temp.

but need to pick the brain of fellow members.

 

 

just need some help on how to install the oil pressure.

cheers guys

 



#2 SAV84C

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Posted 11 December 2013 - 03:43 PM

This is what i done...

Taken from OzFoz...

here goes.. been saying i'd do this for a while..so here it is..

Note: this is only for what you need to do in the engine bay - it does not cover the in-car electrical side of things.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any injury, damage to vehicle or other issues encountered with this DIY. This is simply a description of how I undertook the change and is not backed by any technical qualifications. You will be working with oil access, and belts/alternator - so BE CAREFUL. This is a DIY, meaning you accept all risks associated with performing this type of mod to your car...I won't be responsible if your car burns to a crisp, you bust something, a part fails or anything else as a result of anyone doing this mod....you did it...you broke it

The order of tightening and torqueing bolts is very important so I always tighten fittings to Subaru specs and be carefull not to strip threads!!

What you'll need:

(Just a suggestion - i cant remember exactly what i used, but if you have everything listed, you will be OK :thumbs:)

  • Oil relocation kit from Lolzer
  • Your respective oil temperature and oil pressure gauges/sensors.
  • 2 x 1/8th NPT brass T joints (1 included in the 2 sensor kit)
  • 1 x brass male-male 1/8th NPT end (included in the 2 sensor kit)
  • A decent socket set with extension bars, etc.
  • Adjustable spanner(s)
  • Various ring spanners
  • Liquid thread sealant
  • Pliers
  • Insulated wiring and appropriate connections (to extend the factory pressure sensor wiring) - not 100% sure what these connections are called, so if someone could clear it up, that would be great!
  • Heat shrink (for sealing the extension wire)
  • Cable Ties


This is basically what i used:
IMG_2366-1.jpg

And here's an explanation of what I'm talking about when I talk about the T-pieces:
tpieceexplanation.jpg

What to do:

  • Remove the negative connection on the battery - working with sensors and the alternator - be careful!!

  • Remove belt cover/engine cover bracket to expose the alternator belt:
    IMG_2348-1.jpg

  • Mark the bolt indicated in this photo with some tape (so you know how far to wind it in when reassembling) - you can see the white tape here. Before loosening, take note of the flex in the alternator drive belt, so you know what it should feel like when you re-install it.
    IMG_2353-1.jpg

  • Remove that bolt:
    IMG_2354-1.jpg

  • Loosen this bolt:
    IMG_2359-1-1.jpg

    This will allow the alternator to fall down slightly, letting you slip the alternator belt off.

  • Completely remove the above bolt, and carefully lift the alternator out, and sit it on something out of the way:
    IMG_2361-1.jpg

  • In this photo, the arrow is pointing at the stock oil pressure sensor:

    IMG_2363-1.jpg

    Unplug this, and remove the sensor (for the record, it is an absolute b!tch to remove.. hard to get a grip on it with anything. I ended up using an adjustable spanner on it vertically, and using a second spanner on that to turn the first spanner.)

  • You now have your access point to the inside of the engine. At this point, you want to attach brass male-male 1/8th NPT end (included in the 2 sensor kit) to one of the 1/8th NPT brass T joints (to one side of the 'top part' of the T). Ensure you spread an even amount of liquid sealant on the threads before tightening.

  • Attach your aftermarket oil temperature sensor to the 'long/bottom part' of the T-piece, again using liquid sealant on the thread.

  • Attach the braided hose to the remaining port on the T-piece, then attach the entire unit to the engine block (using the brass male-male 1/8th NPT end).

  • At the other end of the braided line, attach the remaining brass T-piece (at the 'bottom part' of the T).

  • Then attach your after market oil pressure sensor to one side of the 'top part' of the T, and the factory sensor to the other side, again using liquid thread sealant.

    IMG_2368-1.jpg

  • Route the braided line to where you want it, and cable tie it in place.

  • Using wire, crimp the required connections on each end, and ensure it is secure with heatshrink. Use this to extend the wiring for the stock pressure sensor. This allows the extension to be simply plug and play, so no cutting is required. Plug the extension in.

  • The following (average) photo shows the T-piece from [b]Steps 8-10. It shows the factory pressure sensor wiring with the extension connected to it (green arrow), and the brass T-piece (with the aftermarket temp sensor, and braided line attached) attached to the block (red arrow).
    IMG_2369-1-1.jpg

  • Follow (in reverse) the directions for removing the alternator. Tighten the tension bolt to the point which your tape marked. Make sure the belt feels the same as it did before you removed the alternator.

  • Complete the wiring DIY for that side of the gauges, and you now have working oil temp and pressure gauges! :thumbs:
    IMG_2374.jpg


Thanks to Lolzer for the gauges, relocation kit, and advice. And thanks to Oracle for advice/help :drinks:

Any questions, or if I've missed anything, let me know!!

 

#3 allpaw4

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Posted 11 December 2013 - 04:36 PM

It might be worth mentioning to people too - please dont run high pressure oil or fuel lines through the cabin of the car. Despite being illegal, it is also quite dangerous. Dont be a cheapskate, and buy a gauge assembly that comes with an electronic sender that can be mounted in the engine bay somewhere.


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