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[aekOne]

I found this info that was gathered on the LegacyGT (and with help from a bunch of other legacy forums apparently) and thought some people here may find it useful??

The conversion stuff seems to mainly cover USDM legacy's but some of it may still be of interest. If you find that part useless to bad coz couldn't be assed editing it etc...

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Within this page you will find some of the most helpful information gathered from all over; Performance site links, helpful suggestions, vehicle specs, and much more helpful information gathered over time. So if you are new to the older legacy then you've come to the right place.

THE THINGS THIS POST WILL COVER FOR YOU:
Legacy model codes
Most common internet terms
Internet technical terms & abreviations for subarus
Performance Options for the older legacy models
links to find performance parts
links for crate and used motors
bushing list
Motorswaps
Transmission swaps
Overheating issues
Related subaru links to informitive websites

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TERMS & ABREVIATIONS SECTION

Legacy Model Codes:

BC=89-94 Sedan
BF=89-94 Wagon (raised roof)
BJ=89-94 Wagon
BD=95-99 Sedan
BG=95-99 Wagon (raised roof aka 96-99 outback)
BK=95-99 Wagon
BE=00-04 Sedan
BH=00-04 Wagon


**Some of the models which have the same model code have different suspension parts then the other model. check with local dealer or give vehicle VIN number when ordering parts to make sure it will fit and is the correct part.


Technical Abreviations:

5MT- 5 speed manual transmission
6MT- 6 speed manual transmission
4EAT- 4 speed automatic transmission
ABS- Antilock Braking System
AWD- All Wheel Drive
Bhp- Brake Horsepower
BOV- Blow off Valve
CAI- cold air intake
Cat- Catalytic Converter
CEL- Check engine light
CF- Carbon fiber *or* cubic feet
CVT- Continuously Variable Transmission
Diff- Differential
DIN- The standard radio slot (about 7"w x 2"h)
DOHC- Dual over head camshafts
Dyno- the “rolling road” where a vehicle’s power is tested
ECU- Engine Control Unit
EFI- Electronic Fuel Injection
EGR- Exhaust Gas Recirculation
ECT - Electronically Controlled Transmission
EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection
EG – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (up through mid to late 90’s)
EG33 – Subaru 3.3 litre 6-cylinder engine code (SVX)
EJ – Subaru 4-cylinder engines (early 90’s and newer)
EJ20 – Subaru 2.0 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ205 – Subaru 2.0 litre turbo engine (US WRX)
EJ22 – Subaru 2.2 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ25 – Subaru 2.5 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ255 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US Forester XT, Baja Turbo)
EJ257 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US WRX STi)
EZ – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (post EG series H6 engines)
EZ30R – Subaru 3.0 litre 6-cylinder engine code (BL/BP Legacy and new Outback)
F4- Flat four (boxer motor)
FDR - Final Drive Ratio
FMIC- Front Mounted intercooler
FWD- Front Wheel Drive
H4 – Horizontally Opposed 4 cylinder (boxer)
H6 – Horizontally Opposed 6 cylinder
HID- High Intensity Discharge Headlights
HP- Horsepower (at the crank)
IC or I/C- Intercooler
Kw- Kilowatts (like HP in the metric system) 1kw = ~1.341 HP
LHD- Left Hand drive
LSD- Limited Slip Differential
MAF- Mass Air Flow Sensor
MAP- Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
NA or N/A- Naturally Aspirated
NOS- Nitrous Oxide Systems
NGK- maker of spark plugs
O2- oxygen
OBD II- On board diagnostics system (95 and up) Also refers to the newest emissions standards.
OEM- Original Equipment Manufacturer
PCV- Positive Crankcase Ventilation (valve)
Pot- number of pistons per caliper (ie: 4 pot brakes)
PSI- Pounds per square inch
RHD- Right Hand Drive
RWD- Rear Wheel Drive
SC or S/C- Supercharger
SOHC- Single over head cams
Speedo- Speedometer
STi- Subaru Technica International
Tach- Tachometer
TB- Throttle body
T/C- Turbocharger
TC- Torque Converter
TCM- Torque Control Module
TCU- Transmission Control Unit
TMIC- Top Mounted Intercooler
TT- Twin Turbo or Turbo Timer
VC- Viscous Coupler
VIN- Vehicle Identification Number
Whp- Wheel Horsepower
WOT- Wide Open Throttle


Internet Forum/Chat Terms:

FTW- For The Win
Bling- The sound light makes when it hits something shiny
DIY- Do it yourself
FWIW- For what its worth
IIRC- If I remember/recall correctly
IMO- In my opinion
lol- Laugh Out Loud (if its extra funny, its LOL)
n00b/newbie – a new person, or inexperienced person
OMG- Oh my god
OT- Off Topic
PITA- Pain in the ass
Post *****- Person who fills threads with unnecessary garbage in the attempt to boost his/her post total
ROFL- Roll on floor laughing
ROFLMAO- Roll on floor laughing my ass off
STFU- Shut the F**k Up
TTIWWOP- This thread is worthless without pics
WTB- Wanted to Buy
WTF- Whiskey Tango Foxtrot (more commonly known as “What The F**k?”)
TTYL- Talk to you later


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PERFORMANCE SECTION


Performance Parts and Tuning:

As you are about to learn there are alot bolt on performance parts made for your legacy and most parts you find will cost upwards of two to three hundred dollars, yes even an intake. However there are ways of getting around this which I will explain later. The good thing is there are performance parts made for our vehicles, you just have to know what your looking for and where to look for it which is what your about to find out!
The following list does NOT include every performance part made for the older legacy, just a few which I have taken the time to list.



Available Bolt On Performance Parts Overview:
THIS PART LISTING IS FOR A BD LEGACY!

MOTOR:
INJEN coldair intake
Weapon R shortram intake
Nology Wires
Magnecore Wires
grounding kits (all)
voltage stabalizers
unorthodox tuner series crank (underdriven)
unorthodox street pulley lightened crank pulley (not underdriven)
unorthodox ultra street pulley set crank and alternator pulley (not underdriven)
GFB power pulley set (not underdriven)
GFB 3 Peice pulley set (not underdriven)
perrin lightened crank pulley (not underdriven)
Web Cams performance cams
Borla headers
Nitrous (most/ not suggested)
Oil Cooler(s)
Weapon R fuel rail adapter
Random Technology High flow catalytic converter or "cat"
catback exhaust(s)
axle back exhaust(s)
center exhaust pipes(s)
check engine light eliminators
all the internals you could want, you can find at a HUGE price..
Turbo kits are able to be found at a rather large price.. (AVO)

Suspension:
H&R sport lowering springs
Eibach lowering springs
Whiteline Lowering springs
Intrax lowering spring
whiteline swaybar(s)
cusco swaybar
whiteline swaybar Link(s)
whiteline swaybar brackets
whiteline anti lift kit
KYB GR2 struts
KYB AGX struts
strut tower brace(s)
Rear strut tower brace(s)
K sport coil overs
STI top mounts
universal floor brace
Whiteline subframe lock bolts

Brakes:
Brembo drilled & slotted rotors
Brembo drilled or slotted rotors
KVR rotors(same options as brembo rotors)
KVR carbon Pads
EBC green stuff pads
EBC red stuff pads
Stop Tech rotors (same options as brembo rotors)
SS brake lines
speed bleeders

What you do with list is up to you, NO that's NOT IT! There's more parts then that but I'm sure by now you get the point. there are parts for your car, you just have to know where to look... Which I'm going to take care of that right now!
(Most) of the parts listed above can be found in a quite ah few places.

I nor anyone on this forum is suggesting you use any of the manufactures or part distributors in the list(s) below,(unless otherwise stated directly to you in a different post) this is only some of the websites I have taken the time to gather and put into a list for you. I'm not suggesting you use them for purchasing parts or services because I have not used many of them myself, I'm sure they're all pretty good with parts,services, and customer service however I nor will anyone else on this forum be the blame for you having a bad buying experience.

Online Stores:
www.boxer4racing.com
www.pdm-racing.com
www.rallitek.com
www.xcceleration.com
www.vividracing.com
www.perrinperformance.com
www.avoturboworld.com
www.andyautosport.com
www.globalperformanceparts.com

Websites for engine internals:
www.fastwrx.com
www.slowboyracing.com
www.atomicspeedware.com
www.bursethracing.com


Websites for crate motors:
www.subarumotors.net
www.vividracing.com
www.t-rexmotors.com
www.gude.com
www.bursethracing.com
www.nyxracing.com


Websites for used motors:
www.cjee.com/subaru.htm
www.usedwreckingyards.com
www.engineplace.com
www.actionsalvage.com
www.japaneseengineswarehouse.com


If your unable to find what you are looking to search www.dogpile.com or www.goole.com If you are still unable to find what you are looking for, post in the forum and I'm sure someone here will be able to point you in the right direction!

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BUSHING SECTION

You can get SuperPro, Whiteline and Noltec bushings. The 95-99 Legacy uses all the same bushings as the 97-01 Impreza.

I'm not aware of anyone selling a kit with all the bushings included.

The suspension bushings you may want to replace are:

Rear Lateral Link (front) (4 bushings)
Rear Lateral Link (rear) (4 bushings)

Superpro: SPF1492K (inner f & r) & SPF1497K (outer f & r)
Noltec: N61382 (8 bushings)

You can use an adjustable lateral link kit, like the ones made by whiteline and sti, instead of these.

Whiteline: KTA108 (4 arms) or KTA107 (2 front arms & 4 rear bushings)
Noltec: N62034 (4 arms)

Rear Trailing Links (4 bushings)

Superpro: SPF1491K (2 front bushings) & SPF1907K (2 rear bushings)
Noltec: N61383 (2 front bushings) & N61381 (2 rear bushings)

Front Lower Arm (inner-front) (2 bushings)

Superpro: SPF1390K
Noltec: N51709

Front Lower Arm (inner-rear) (2 bushings)

Superpro: SPF1387K (no camber change) or SPF1388K (alk effect)
Noltec: N51710 (no camber change)

You can use an Anti Lift Kit, also available from whiteline, instead of these.

Whiteline: KCA361 (comfort), KCA319A (medium) or KCA319M (race)

Front Sway Bar (2 bushings)
Rear Sway Bar (2 bushings)

These should be ordered according to the diameter of your sway bars.

Whiteline: W0404-18, W0404-20, W0404-22, W0404-24 (last 2 digits are diameter in mm)
Noltec: N22383 (18mm), N22352 (20mm), N22353 (22mm), N22354 (24mm)
Superpro: SPF1383-__K (15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25.4 & 29mm)

Front Endlinks (4 bushings)
Rear Endlinks (4 bushings)

Usually people replace the entire endlinks with stronger alloy versions available from whiteline, noltec, perrin, sti, etc instead of just changing the bushings.

Other bushings you might want to replace are:

Rear Differential Mount (2 bushings)

Superpro: SPF2664K

Rear Differential Outrigger (2 bushings)

Whiteline: KSB751
Superpro: SPF1978K

Transmission Crossmember Bushings (2 bushings)

Superpro: SPF2358K

Steering Rack (2 bushings)

There are also a number of bushings in the shift linkage.

Front bushing
Rear bushing
Linkage Bushings

These are available from Kartboy & Turn In Concepts

If you have all those you'll definitely also want Group-N mounts

Engine mounts (2)
Pitch Stop Mount
Transmission Mount

You'll probably also want to replace the front ball joints (if you're lowered check out the whiteline roll center correction kit), and the inner and outer tie rod ends.

Manufacturer sites:
www.superpro.com.au/
www.noltecsuspension.com/
www.whiteline.com.au/

Distributors:
www.globalperformanceparts.com/ (Whiteline & Superpro)
www.oakos.com/ (Noltec)

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MOTOR AND TRANNY SWAP SECTION


Motor Swaps:

Now that we have that out of the way, I'm sure your wondering if it's possible to do a motor swap. Bottomline is yes anything is possible if you have enough money to do it! Motor swaps have been done with the BD models forsure, I'm not inclined if they have been done on other models, However It is NOT suggested that you keep your 4EAT in the vehicle if your going to put in a turbo motor, they do not hold up well with boost. There is also an amazing amount of wiring that must be done for these swaps. besure you look into this completely before you make the jump!

If you are considering swapping engines in your legacy you should know from the beginning it is not as simple as swapping your brother's civic hatch. Mechanically it's not too bad, depending on the extent of what you are swapping (I'll explain this later), but there is a lot of wiring. And when I say a lot, I mean a LOT.

The reason for this is that subaru's use one large wiring harness for the whole car, unlike say a honda which has a harness for the engine and a harness for the car, which you can pretty much splice the connectors and be done. With subarus, you will have to splice the two harnesses together at some point along the way, whether its in the dash or right after the ECU.


Motors:

That being said; Mechancially it's pretty straightforeward. Any EJ series engine will bolt to any EJ series transmission, and any EJ series drivetrain will fit into any car that had an EJ series drivetrain in it before. This pretty much means that if you have a post 1990 4 cylinder in there now, you can put any other post 1990 4 cylinder in.

Some common conversions are:

JDM EJ20G -- This is the JDM v2-v3 STi motor. Similar in many ways to the USDM EJ20t in terms of parts interchangeability (by NO means the same, but similar). The wiring is interesting, because you have to decipher JDM wiring diagrams, but it can be done, and isnt that much harder than a USDM swap. You run into the same OBDII problem with this motorset. The largest advantage of this setup is that the EJ20G is also a closed deck block, only 2 litres instead of 2.2. The best way to do this swap is to find a JDM STi front clip, and get everything, so you don't have to worry about tracking down little parts you need for an already pulled motor.

JDM EJ20K,t -- This encompasses the remainder of the JDM STi and WRX motors. Power levels vary a bit, but its all pretty much an EJ20. All the same disadvantages as an EJ20G, with no sealed deck. Good motors, good turbos, fun out of the box, and inexpensive. Plan on taking your time with the wiring, or you'll regret it later.

Hybrid motors -- Basically, this is what the name says. You take two or more of the motors from above, and combine the parts you want. This requires more knowhow in terms of engine building, as you have to deal with changing compression ratios with different heads and ECU tuning, but its definitely worth it if you have the cash to do it right. One good combination is to get everything for a WRX swap, and use the EJ22t block with the WRX heads, turbo, etc. You can use an STi turbo with any of the above platforms, really whatever you want. As I said though, this requires more mechanical knowhow.

Transmissions:

4EAT automatic -- I don't have much personal experience with this transmission, however I do know it doesn't handle much aftermarket power well. You also have to find a motor or ECU for your motor that had an automatic in it before, you can't get a manual ECU to work with an auto tranny as far as I know. Luckily for those of you who would want one (i havent met anyone yet, but im sure they exist), the USDM and JDM WRXs came in automatic form.

5 speed manual -- This is the standard 5 speed manual that subaru puts in most everything. If you have a 5 speed, chances are its built off of this platform. The strength of these transmissions, ive discovered, is all pretty much the same. Different gear ratios, rear end ratios, etc, all make a difference when putting a motorset together, but for the most part they are all the same. The exception to this (There always seems to be one haha) is the JDM STi 5 speed, which was available with the DCCD. This transmission is stronger than the regular 5 speed (Cryo treated gears). It also has the variable center diff (DCCD), which can be wired in to work if you get it with a front clip, or even a pulled motor with all the stuff.

6 speed manual -- USDM STi trans. Much more sturdy than the 5 speeds in any form, plus the DCCD. Don't be mistaken, its still a subaru transmission, you can still break it. Wiring the DCCD in can be a pain, especially if you are putting this in without the rest of the STi stuff (ie on a hybrid motor).

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COMMON REPAIRS AND ISSUSES

OVERHEATING:

If your legacy is overheating from time to time, and spiting coolant all over the place nine times out of ten you have a blown head gasket (not always, but most cases) If you have a warranty get it into the shop ASAP to have it fixed!
Certain 1999 through 2002 2.5L equipped vehicles may experience an external coolant leak at the head gaskets.
Only early Phase II 2.5 liter engines are affected. Phase I 2.5 liter engines (some 1999 model year and prior years) are not affected. In the future, it will be necessary to add Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner to the SUBARU vehicle cooling system whenever the engine coolant is replaced.




Related Informitive Sites:

http://www.cars101.c...baru_links.html < TONS of Subaru related links.
http://www.cars101.com/legacy.html < Every Specification you'll ever need. (almost)
http://www.cars101.c...baru_terms.html < more helpful information about subarus
http://www.legacycen....on/convert.htm < how to on transmission swap and more about subaru legacy swaps
http://en.wikipedia....ubaru_EJ_engine < good information on "EJ" engines and when, where and in what they're used.
http://autorepair.ab....gine_Codes.htm < Data base for all OBD system codes
http://www.premiersubaru.com/terms.asp < explains and has pictures of almost everything on a subaru
http://consumerguide....u-legacy-2.htm < consumer guide recalls and BD issues/warnings
http://www.cars101.com/recalls.html < more subaru recalls/warnings

[Dylan]

Links are stuffed mate. Chuck us the original link and I'll fix it up!