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Oil Cooler Options


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#1 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 01:49 PM

Looking into having a Air Oil cooler on the Lib..
Wondering if anyone has first hand experience installing one and what they used.

 

I currently have the Standard STI Cooling plate that uses the Coolant.

 

I have had some high temps on track and want to go the route of installing a small 9bar? Oil Cooler..

 

My main questions are..

 

What pressures will it need to withstand?

Will having near on 2 meters of extra Oil line effect the oil pressures?

Is a Thermostat for the oil cooler a good idea? aka, will running the car in the snow with the cooler cause the oil to be too cold?

 

My Preliminary thoughts are to run the Cooler in the lower dam of the front bar.

Running the lines around the side of the radiator on the Drivers side and into where filter is and having them mounted up on the chassis rail.

 

Full Braided lines and Heat Shielding

 

Just after some Thoughts and discussion on the topic.


ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."

#2 Downundersir

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 11:24 AM

Factory oil coolers are available on Evo's , Megane turbos & ford focus turbo models. I know the Evo runs a thermostat. If your already experiencing high temps, it won't hurt to install an oil cooler & you could fit it easily during the lunch break at your track day.

#3 aekOne

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 11:28 AM

i've got a 9bar on my liberty without a thermostat. 


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#4 allpaw4

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 08:59 PM

The cooler itself will need to be able to withstand cold oil pressure +50% safety margin. So give or take about 150 kPa I think. Might be psi, would have to check my oil pressure gauge.
The added lines wont affect the pressure any unless you get small lines. Anything around the half inch mark will do the job. You might need to add some extra capacity to your oil changes though.
If you run around in the snow, I would say you don't want to be running a cooler without a thermostat. I don't run one, but im in the desert with 0 chance of snow. I do let it idle a bit longer when cold though.

MY00 Red RX, a nice daily that was sold off once the B4 became reliable...
MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 JDM STi engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. Stripped and crushed.
MY03 Blue RX, the newer old daily, pretty well more B4 than RX now... In the process of being converted to the track toy... Watch this space!
MY02 Silver Wagon, H6 conversion, full blue/black leather and almost full black interior to go with it.
MY03 White/Silver H6 Outback, donor car for silver waghoon.
MY97 Silver RX, acquired to become track car, but plans changed. To be stripped and scrapped in time.


#5 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 09:37 AM

Cool,

Thanks for the Insight guys.

 

 

Aek, where do you have yours mounted?

I'm set on the Thermostat - Being the 2 purposes for my car are taking me to the snow and Track days (and thats it) 

im quite set on this route..

 

Do you have the factory oil cooler core (the one between the block and the Filter) still hooked up?

i like that it helps warm the oil up to running temp (a huge advantage at the snow.. cause it sucks waiting for 15+ minutes for the car to warm up!


ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."

#6 allpaw4

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 10:51 AM

Just checked my gauge. Psi rated, not kPa. Mines mounted in the front air dam part, between bumper and A/C condensor.

MY00 Red RX, a nice daily that was sold off once the B4 became reliable...
MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 JDM STi engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. Stripped and crushed.
MY03 Blue RX, the newer old daily, pretty well more B4 than RX now... In the process of being converted to the track toy... Watch this space!
MY02 Silver Wagon, H6 conversion, full blue/black leather and almost full black interior to go with it.
MY03 White/Silver H6 Outback, donor car for silver waghoon.
MY97 Silver RX, acquired to become track car, but plans changed. To be stripped and scrapped in time.


#7 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 11:19 AM

thanks mate, Do you run the Stock Oil Cooler also or just the External one?


ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."

#8 allpaw4

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 12:56 PM

I run them both. No sense in removing the stock one, it has a job to do.

MY00 Red RX, a nice daily that was sold off once the B4 became reliable...
MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 JDM STi engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. Stripped and crushed.
MY03 Blue RX, the newer old daily, pretty well more B4 than RX now... In the process of being converted to the track toy... Watch this space!
MY02 Silver Wagon, H6 conversion, full blue/black leather and almost full black interior to go with it.
MY03 White/Silver H6 Outback, donor car for silver waghoon.
MY97 Silver RX, acquired to become track car, but plans changed. To be stripped and scrapped in time.


#9 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 04:46 PM

OK.. thoughts on the following 2 setups.. (I have reasons for both so bare with me)

 

 

Setup 1: Oil Sandwich plate (Part 1) ---------  In line Thermostat (part 2) mounted to the chassis rail ----------- Oil Cooler (Part 3)

 

or

 

Setup 2: OIl Sandwich Inc Thermostat (Part1) --- Line to Oil Cooler ---- Oil Cooler (Part 2)

 

now..

the reason i considered the first one...

I like the Thermostat design more. but more so I'm thinking.. if I have the Oil Temp Sender in the Sandwich plate along with the thermostat.. wont I be getting invalid readings due to the temp being straight after the cooler?

 

Maybe i'm over-thinking the whole process haha but i want to know pre cooler temps not post cooler temps

 

or should i be putting in a temp sensor on top of the block where the pressure switch is?


ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."

#10 allpaw4

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 07:43 PM

Both options are good, although add the price of braided lines to both setups. Be careful about putting the senders right where the filter sits. There's not much room in amongst the exhaust, and it gets bloody hot there. Senders usually have a fair bit of plastic. Consider getting a remote mount filter if you have the space in the engine bay. They make changing the filter a hell of a lot easier, especially if you change the oil warm.

MY00 Red RX, a nice daily that was sold off once the B4 became reliable...
MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 JDM STi engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. Stripped and crushed.
MY03 Blue RX, the newer old daily, pretty well more B4 than RX now... In the process of being converted to the track toy... Watch this space!
MY02 Silver Wagon, H6 conversion, full blue/black leather and almost full black interior to go with it.
MY03 White/Silver H6 Outback, donor car for silver waghoon.
MY97 Silver RX, acquired to become track car, but plans changed. To be stripped and scrapped in time.


#11 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 10:31 PM

Yeah Braided lines are going to happen.. Only reason for so much Discussion because this is Oil we are talking about.
anything goes and its Bye Bye engine

 

I thought about a remote mount filter.. and it could be connected near where the Charcoal canister normally sits on a gen2 but i think having the following would be messy

 

Block | Filter Relocation Plate=========== | Cooler plate/w Thermostat | Oil Filter

                                                                            \`================================Oil Cooler

 

i think it would be a bit messy under the Hood.

 

 

My Sensors would all be Insulated and Headers will be Wrapped to limit radiant heat.

 

I know it will be tight though.

 

Ill probably go Setup route 2 as i like the how its tidy.

Looking at the design of the Thermostat plate i can see it has the sensor ports positioned so they shouldn't get readings directly influenced by the oil cooler flow.

 

Now to find all the parts and get it done (along with the other stack of parts waiting to go on... 


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#12 Beckers

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 10:55 PM

Hey Ty,

 

Whats with the braided lines ??

The normal push on type oil cooler hose & fittings are rated above 250psi.

So you are not going to burst that hose.

 

If you go with the push on type fittings, DO NOT use screw type clamps over the joints, as these will cut through the hose.

 

I will bring some fittings & hose to the wed night Docklands meet.



#13 Rallyeee

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 04:19 AM

There were factory oil coolers on some spec Cs. I had one in my old Gen 1 Lib (pic below). I also put it in my Gen 3 but the cooler got a pin hole leak from core so I've bypassed it til I could be bothered finding another. The part that the oil filter mounts to has a thermostat inside. This isn't absolutely necessary but the longer it takes your oil to get up to temp, the more wear you'll put on the engine. STi use braided lines with fire sleeve over the top. The braided line is just the rubber hose type though, not the teflon higher pressure stuff.

 

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#14 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 03:01 PM

Thx mate for the info.

Simon, the reason for braided lines is abrasion resistance. .
I think I'm have my lines done by enzed or the like but bring the stuff so I can see what you mean anyway ;)
ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."




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