DIY - Gen3 Strut removal and install
#21
Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:35 AM
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#22
Posted 01 December 2009 - 03:18 PM
Funny you say that, I asked the Subaru service department about torque numbers the other day and they mentioned:No special tools needed here.
Like Buzz did, just use a deep offset ring spanner and an allen key for the top strut nut. (A rattle gun and socket works well )
You will only need to do this if you wish to remove the spring from the strut assembly.
"3 nuts on top of struts firm they are only 8mm threads.
Top strut we do with a rattle gun until it tightens because the spring rotates as being tightened.
Bottom bolts as tight as possible with normal hand tools – approx 100NM."
So the allen key stops the spring from rotating while doing up the nut???
P.S. What's a rattle gun?
#23
Posted 01 December 2009 - 03:57 PM
Funny you say that, I asked the Subaru service department about torque numbers the other day and they mentioned:
"3 nuts on top of struts firm they are only 8mm threads.
Top strut we do with a rattle gun until it tightens because the spring rotates as being tightened.
Bottom bolts as tight as possible with normal hand tools – approx 100NM."
So the allen key stops the spring from rotating while doing up the nut???
P.S. What's a rattle gun?
Rattle gun is essentially an air compressor powered spanner! Very hand to have.
Don't even worry yourself with this allen key business. It's completely unecessary if you're swapping over the existing struts with new struts with the springs already installed.
#24
Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:16 PM
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#25
Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:22 PM
Ahhh, In my case I've got new shocks/struts and I'm getting new springs so I'm gonna have to assemble myself...Rattle gun is essentially an air compressor powered spanner! Very hand to have.
Don't even worry yourself with this allen key business. It's completely unecessary if you're swapping over the existing struts with new struts with the springs already installed.
Is this allen key a special/custom size, or would you find it in a common set of allen keys?
#26
Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:37 PM
Thanks Jason, your concern is well warranted. I've never done anything like this or anything of a lesser scale before.Merlin,
Please don't take this the wrong way, but as an automotive teacher, your questions make me wonder if you should attempt this unassisted. I'm all for having a go, but I would hate to see you damage your car or make it unsafe or worse still, hurt yourself.
Have you attempted anything of a lesser scale before?
Cheers
Jason
The closest I would have got is passing my Dad tools when he asked for them when I was a kid!
However in saying that, I just want to be prepared, and try to cover all aspects of what I'm up against. Equipment and safety is my priority, and I'll be sure to get a W/A ASAP after completing the job.
Even if it takes an entire weekend, the experience and the saved $400+ installation fee will be worth it.
I'll try and shutup in future and keep you from worrying.
Thanks heaps for your (& Chris & Buzz) advise.
#27
Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:39 PM
Ahhh, In my case I've got new shocks/struts and I'm getting new springs so I'm gonna have to assemble myself...
Is this allen key a special/custom size, or would you find it in a common set of allen keys?
I used these to do my strut tops
Cost $20 for both from super cheap, spanner came in a set as well. Sometimes i love that place. Cant remember which size either the allen key or spanner were sorry. For $20 just get a set of each
Edit: Looking at the wear on the allen key i reckon it was the 6mm one, the strut tops is all i have used em for so any wear has come from that job.
#28
Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:59 PM
Merlin,Thanks Jason, your concern is well warranted. I've never done anything like this or anything of a lesser scale before.
The closest I would have got is passing my Dad tools when he asked for them when I was a kid!
However in saying that, I just want to be prepared, and try to cover all aspects of what I'm up against. Equipment and safety is my priority, and I'll be sure to get a W/A ASAP after completing the job.
Even if it takes an entire weekend, the experience and the saved $400+ installation fee will be worth it.
I'll try and shutup in future and keep you from worrying.
Thanks heaps for your (& Chris & Buzz) advise.
No need to shut up. Questions gather information.
I can appreciate obtaining the experience and the cost saving.
Just remember that even when the struts are removed from the car the springs are still under compression. If you remove the top nut without using a spring compressor then the top top plate will fly off due to the force of the spring trying to expand. Be careful.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#29
Posted 01 December 2009 - 09:26 PM
Well noted. Saw a couple of YouTube vids of "mechanics" doing this with a rattle gun.... Scarey!!!! Top plate flew 20 odd meters into the car park from inside the workshop.Just remember that even when the struts are removed from the car the springs are still under compression. If you remove the top nut without using a spring compressor then the top top plate will fly off due to the force of the spring trying to expand. Be careful.
So to add to Chris's tools list for a new shock/spring install: Spring Compressors - Allen Key set (as per squishy pic).
Can't believe the price difference in King Springs from various retailers, got quoted $167/pr from Supercheap, $197/pr from Repco, yet online at ModYourCar.com they have them for $135/pr. Which means I can get them shipped from QLD to SA for $30 and still save $100 compared to Repco's off the shelf price.... Do they think people don't look for bargains these days???? (Sorry for rant)
#30
Posted 01 December 2009 - 09:28 PM
Thanks mate.Edit: Looking at the wear on the allen key i reckon it was the 6mm one, the strut tops is all i have used em for so any wear has come from that job.
#31
Posted 01 December 2009 - 09:33 PM
#32
Posted 01 December 2009 - 10:06 PM
Correct. However I haven't got the springs yet.So it sounds like you've got new struts and King Spring to fit to them.
They are BOGE shocks/struts as seen here. These BOGE are meant to comply to original specs, pretty sure TH-37-OY is running this combo as pictured here: BOGE shock w/ Lowered King Springs.What brand struts are they? If they are Bilsteins then the Kings aren't really suited to them. They'll fit, but might actually make your car sit higher.
Cheers, I have or can borrow most things in your original tools list. Not rushing into it, hopefully whatever I have to buy I can use again one day.Don't forget you'll need a trolley jack and vehicle stands also. By the time you've bought all of the correct gear, you'd be coming close to the cost of having a suspension place do it.
Food for thought.
Thanks again for all your help and advice.
#33
Posted 25 April 2013 - 12:29 PM
I got my breaker bar on the rear bolt jammed with a tire, but still can't rotate the front bolt tightest nut ever, cleaned the nut, used WD40 still screwed lol
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#34
Posted 25 April 2013 - 12:52 PM
#35
Posted 25 April 2013 - 01:05 PM
Dunno if it's a proper way to do it though
#36
Posted 25 April 2013 - 01:14 PM
I find giving it a few wacks with a rubber mallet to crack it works. Just make sure it's on the nut properly, don't wanna round it off
Dunno if it's a proper way to do it though
On which side of bolt? The fronts were so easy compared to the rear lol, loosened the top of the strut in the boot but it's just that one bolt holding me back
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#37
Posted 25 April 2013 - 01:19 PM
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#38
Posted 25 April 2013 - 01:48 PM
#39
Posted 25 April 2013 - 03:04 PM
Then undo it with my huge breaker bar on one side, and someone with my large 19mm spanner on the other.
If that still doesn't work, you can switch sides (ie, undo the head-side of the bolt with someone holding onto the nut). Just go backwards.
Good luck!
#40
Posted 02 September 2015 - 11:43 PM
Got mine in quite quickly thanks to this.
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