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Liberty EJ25T Conversion Questions


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#21 aekOne

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 11:43 AM

^ agree with Alex.

 

Even a V4 STI cut can cost your up to 5K or so these days + the things Alex mentioned (exhaust, timing belt service, new clutch, fluids) its a stretch. You'll also need a turbo bonnet unless your going FMIC so either of those will add to the cost as well.

 

The budget conversion is Series 2 Audm Gen 2 (4K) + Series 2 JDM Legacy GTB halfcut (3k) + timing belt service, exhaust modifications, fluids & clutch (1.5k) 

 

edit: Is that JDM or AUDM Rob? Dylan ended up buying a whole car in Japan and getting it cut sent over as there were so few JDM V7 cuts available locally or they didn't included brembos or rear cradle etc so went straight to the source instead of messing around with local wreckers. 


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#22 church

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 11:49 AM

 

JDM WRX/STI cuts in your price range are EJ20 only. AUDM came in 2.5 for GD STI but doubt you'll find one of those with Ben as he mainly deals in imports. If you want and AUDM STI 2.5T someone like Japwreck might have what your looking but a V7 STI cut is probably going to cost you near to your entire budget.

 

If i were you, i'd be looking for Gen 2 or 3 and a version V3/V4/V5 STI cut. 

 

 

Not really looking for an STi Halfcut, I thought basically any WRX Halfcut would fit in a Gen 3 (with a correctly configured Wiring loom).

 

Hate to be a pessimist here but I think your 9K budget is too low, especially considering you want a DECENT gen2 to start with (RX ~$4000-5000). Half cut will be $3-4k, splicing is around $1k and thats with no incidentals (exhaust mods, you will want to put a timing belt kit/water pump etc in an import motor etc etc).

 

Unless you find a blown RX for cheap cheap that is.

 

You're pessimism really helps cause I need someone outside to tell me whats wrong with this idea so I can make an informed decision.

 

I'm hoping to find a RX for cheap cheap, wishful thinking would say I get one where only the engine was bad and the rest is okay and passable, and the half cut would be between $2 - 3.5K. 



#23 aekOne

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 11:54 AM

Not really looking for an STi Halfcut, I thought basically any WRX Halfcut would fit in a Gen 3 (with a correctly configured Wiring loom).

 

A WRX cut will go into a gen 3 no problems but if your not after an STI cut your not going to get a 2.5T (as you said your wanted earlier). You might find an early GC WRX half cut for 3.5k or less but unlikely as its not worth wreckers time breaking such old, undesirable cars. I'd also say it's not worth doing with such an old set up anyway.

 

my advise would keep saving until you can afford something a bit better :)


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#24 Robert

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 11:57 AM

^ agree with Alex.
 
Even a V4 STI cut can cost your up to 5K or so these days + the things Alex mentioned (exhaust, timing belt service, new clutch, fluids) its a stretch. You'll also need a turbo bonnet unless your going FMIC so either of those will add to the cost as well.
 
The budget conversion is Series 2 Audm Gen 2 (4K) + Series 2 JDM Legacy GTB halfcut (3k) + timing belt service, exhaust modifications, fluids & clutch (1.5k) 
 
edit: Is that JDM or AUDM Rob? Dylan ended up buying a whole car in Japan and getting it cut sent over as there were so few JDM V7 cuts available locally or they didn't included brembos or rear cradle etc so went straight to the source instead of messing around with local wreckers. 

From Chris at rising sun so I'd say a jdm cut,
price was $7700 sorry, 100,000 kms on the car.

I told him I wanted everything.

#25 alexGT

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 12:01 PM

 

You're pessimism really helps cause I need someone outside to tell me whats wrong with this idea so I can make an informed decision.

 

I'm hoping to find a RX for cheap cheap, wishful thinking would say I get one where only the engine was bad and the rest is okay and passable, and the half cut would be between $2 - 3.5K. 

 

Well I did a conversion around 7 years ago (Adam's car on here Gen2 RX wagon) so do have some experience and one thing lacking always is incidentals that people dont think about. Also need to think about clutch too so theres around $500-600 there also... you have no idea what condition the half cut is in (service wise that is, I'm sure it's running fine especially from ichiban).

 

edit: also exhaust mods which will probably be needed for gen2 w/wrx cut, also turbo bonnet if going TMIC (and if you go FMIC you will need even more!)

 

I've done it all before, and as much fun as it was unless I got a stupid cheap donor car is excellent condition I will buy one thats been done properly OR buy a WRX / turbo subaru and modify that.


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#26 Robert

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 12:02 PM

Ill be budgeting 10 k with my conversion, if I decide I want 6 speed and Brembos

And that's already having a gen 2 to do the conversion on

#27 aekOne

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 12:07 PM

Kris's prices can indicative (and pending availability which has been the biggest problem lately) ;)

 

So with shipping you'd call it say 8.5k delivered to make sure your on budget (probably being generous there but helps when working to a budget)


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#28 Barbbachello

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 12:12 PM

For the sake of comparison im also "planning" a conversion on my gen 2 RX. Im budgeting around 7~k. V3/4 cut depending on availability, DIY loom splice, full service, zorst, etc. Sticking with whatever gear bag and rear end i get with the cut and my current brakes.

4kish for the cut based on current pricing, 1k for service, 1k for exhaust. 500-1000 on things breaking fund


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#29 MrSober88

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Posted 22 December 2014 - 04:37 PM

I did a GEN III RX to turbo with a 99 GC8 WRX wreck that I found in Sydney for $4,000.

 

I already had a Liberty so $7,500 was for a full GC8 WRX with front end damage, full Service, dump back exhaust and the wiring done by AMAuto.

 

GC8 WRX Wreck - $4,000

Service kit - $1,100 (this included headstuds and head gaskets)

Exhaust - $300

Wiring Splice - $1,000

Clutch kit - $200 (I bought an Exedy kit from USA, Far cheaper)

Turbo Bonnet - $300

Random bits - $600

 

This is what I would have paid if I went this way in the first place, But I went the FMIC at the start and was a mistake so I wasted $400 on that which I still need to sell on haha. But I also did all the work myself which saved alot of money that I could spend elsewhere.

 

So mine all up including the Liberty was around $15,500 ($8,000 for my GEN III RX Liberty) which when I first bought my Liberty was around the price for a good condition GEN III B4. 

 

So I think you will be able to do it if things pop up at the right time, so if you don't need to do it right away I would wait till a good deal pops up. If I did it again I could do it cheaper as I know what bits and bobs I need now but back then I didn't. 



#30 duncanm

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 10:17 AM

 

I'm hoping to find a RX for cheap cheap, wishful thinking would say I get one where only the engine was bad and the rest is okay and passable, and the half cut would be between $2 - 3.5K. 

 

I hope you're looking in the 'bargains' on the forums... this was just pointed to by aek. Low mileage Gen2 bilstein RX.

 

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/171628790600



#31 Josh.

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 12:26 PM

For your budget you could buy something like this and start modding it. Parts for GD WRX's are cheap and there are heaps available.

http://carsales.mobi.../SSE-AD-2925877

#32 church

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Posted 20 August 2015 - 06:46 PM

Reviving this topic as I am now definitely in the research and planning stage and now have the space to do the conversion in.

 

Background: Choosing to get a gen 3 liberty/outback with an EJ20 from a 2004 - 2006 WRX halfcut (most likely ichiban) 

 

Couple more questions:

 

1. If I choose to get an auto Lib/Outback, what other bits do I need to get to go from auto box to 5 speed manual box? (if it doesn't come with the halfcut: tailshaft, rear drive shafts and rear diff)

 

2. How hard is splicing the loom with the WRX? (not thinking of DIYing, just wanted to know)

 

Thanks :)



#33 PeeKay

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 01:39 PM

Would you not rather purchase a B4 or a GTB and convert to single? You will achieve the same result with far less headache



#34 Barbbachello

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 03:57 PM

Would you not rather purchase a B4 or a GTB and convert to single? You will achieve the same result with far less headache

Same result but a very round about way of getting there thats bound to have other issues and consequences 


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#35 church

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 06:08 PM

I honestly thought about that, But I figured, it would be probs less effort to just do an engine swap with a Lib/Outback.

 

I mean Engine swap is more straight forward I reckon, this more info on engine swaps than TT to single turbo conversions. It would be most probs cheaper and more gains in the end also.

 

-

 

Also If I got my info right here's what I've gathered

1. Get a Gen 2 or 3 Shell

2. Get a WRX/STi half cut newer than the shell (serviced)

3. Get the loom from both the shell and halfcut, send it off to AM auto for around $1000

4. Change Shell subframe to Halfcut subframe + Change steering racks (?)

5. Shell engine out, Halfcut engine + gearbox in

5.5. (if 6 speed) Get R180 Diff, (If the shell was an automatic) change the tailshaft bolt pattern on the R180 with the Shell's.

5. Bolt the R180 to the rear, attach tailshaft

6. Change Drive shafts to driveshafts that match the halfcut

7. Re position loom

8. Put back all ancillaries or change to halfcut's when needed

9. Put AM auto loom in

10. Plug Halfcut ECU in

11. Turn key 

 

This is the engine swap in a nutshell right?

(this is not including brakes, suspension etc.)



#36 duncanm

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 08:58 PM

change over the loom while the engine is out.
 
And you forgot:
 - degas AC
 - pull heater box and AC out
 
Drive to an AC service place and get them to degas it for you before you start. The one I used charged me $40 or something  which was refunded when I went back to them for a regas.
 
Depending on how much stuff you want to swap over - you may want to leave the engines on their subframes and drop the whole shebang (engine, subframe, lower arms, gearbox, subframe) as one unit -- see Ben/Ichiban's recent lib conversion for-sale for a picture here.
 
If you use an outback - you need to consider if you're going to delift it or not.
 
You also need to get a fuel pump controller and wire it up. Turbos have a variable-speed pump control.
 
for peace of mind
 - aftermarket fuel pump (deatschwerks or similar)
 - timing belt and idlers
 - water pump
 - new clutch

#37 Robert

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 09:23 PM

Seems excessive to get am auto to do a loom and then put a haltech in it

Either get am auto to splice the haltech into the looms or just get a gd loom and enjoy factory tuneable ecu win

#38 church

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 07:17 AM

change over the loom while the engine is out.
 
And you forgot:
 - degas AC
 - pull heater box and AC out
 
Drive to an AC service place and get them to degas it for you before you start. The one I used charged me $40 or something  which was refunded when I went back to them for a regas.
 
Depending on how much stuff you want to swap over - you may want to leave the engines on their subframes and drop the whole shebang (engine, subframe, lower arms, gearbox, subframe) as one unit -- see Ben/Ichiban's recent lib conversion for-sale for a picture here.
 
If you use an outback - you need to consider if you're going to delift it or not.
 
You also need to get a fuel pump controller and wire it up. Turbos have a variable-speed pump control.
 
for peace of mind
 - aftermarket fuel pump (deatschwerks or similar)
 - timing belt and idlers
 - water pump
 - new clutch

 

Thanks, this is stuff I need to know before hand. Don't want to dive into it without the proper info :D

 

Is it really hard to drop the shell into the subframe without a hoist? I could give it a go when I do it.

 

OR! Is it like put the engine package under the engine bay and lift the package up then bolt it in?

 

Seems excessive to get am auto to do a loom and then put a haltech in it

Either get am auto to splice the haltech into the looms or just get a gd loom and enjoy factory tuneable ecu win

 

Nah no haltech. I reckon when I'm richer and get a full time job, I'll pay a visit to AM auto with a different shell ;)



#39 andrew_k

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 12:04 PM

Couple lessons I've learned in the past month working on a similar conversion (v7 207 + GD WRX everything into 99 forester) that might be obvious, or might save you some hassles.

 

 - Leave the suspension intact for as long as possible, particularly the rear. Being able to fit wheels and have a rolling chassis is a god send. (i fork'd this up big time when dismantling the wrx!).

 

 - The steering knuckle from 01 or higher WRX isn't directly compatible with the steering column from GC or SF, and vice versa. Possibly same problem for your Liberty? Different spline count. 05+ steering racks use a different mounting method than earlier, so likely want to fit the entire crossmember. There is a GC to GD conversion knuckle available from the US if that's a problem you face. 

 

 - If you don't plan on replacing components, don't pull them apart -- eg the crossmember with the steering rack can easily come out as one piece with hubs and axels attached. I've done all this alone in a dirt shed, you don't need fancy tools, hoists etc just be damned sure you have every wire / pipe disconnected before you drop everything. No need to take the 32mm axle nut off the hub.  

 

 - Seriously assess the Factory Service Manual PDFs before you consider dropping them off at a print shop to get a handy printed copy. I didn't check the page count. 3000 pages and $200 later.... :-/



#40 Jimbo

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 12:56 PM

For that money, you could buy a Gen4 03-06 Liberty GT.

 


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