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ABEIQ

Member Since 08 Nov 2013
Offline Last Active Oct 09 2017 09:48 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: GCEBE - Abrahams 1998 GC8 WRX

13 June 2017 - 12:04 AM

Done a tonne of little things lately to the car (not really but you get the idea) 
 
The steering wheel was a little tired and worn, so i picked up a leather repair kit and filled in the cracks, then re-dyed it. It came out better then before .. but eh im not completely happy with it, probably needs to be treated with leather protectant etc after some time, it scuffed pretty easily but maybe that was my fault for not giving it enough time after being completed? 
 
Before, During and after pics. 
 
Cracks at the top of the wheel
87807E88-BDFB-48B7-82E4-683880FE3867_zps
 
8D777881-A4BF-42A3-B314-CC94F229917E_zps
 
Prep sand 
5FB210FC-8607-445F-9910-572C679CF041_zps
 
Cracks and damage filled to be sanded 
BAF15450-2B31-4BA6-A281-5CEBBD469E7E_zps
 
D2438229-AFAA-42DD-9182-CEC0451A6A6C_zps
 
0090206D-EDF3-46A8-9DE2-8AF20BFC71BA_zps
 
finished 
822F3CF4-6BD7-483B-A248-D092805D2F89_zps
 
5A15A3E7-EC66-40DC-A5AE-8D9A8340C0DF_zps
 
A deal also popped up on ebay for a decent paintless dent repair kit (PDR), i gave it a go on one of the smaller dents in my guard, to be honest, this was probably the worst one on the car, the rest are little door dings etc, i just need to spend time on them which i havent yet. The one i had a go at came about 90% out, again, more time = better results. 
 
Before 
3DD45DAA-16C4-4887-B20D-DAC0452925E5_zps
 
After - the angle doesnt show how well it came out, still a low spot but great results 
490CABB6-5691-49A7-B755-9877DCB6D196_zps
 
I also ended up ordering rear sway bar bushes, these were always pretty tired, i did these over a month ago but never posted about it :(. This was pretty simple with the car on the driveway, Heres a few pics.  PS. I have Whiteline HD End links on their way, ebay had a 20% off deal from select sellers inc. sparesbox, picked up the links for $90 ish 
 
3860D95B-8980-46A1-9B95-B13C2362E240_zps
 
Lastly, i had some colour matched paint left from when i did the vent, so i fixed up the cracks and crap in the hood scoop, im pretty pleased with the results, there are a few things i would do different if i did it again, for now this will do, it needs a good polish but i looks 1000% better than the cracked crap it was before, Previously, all the lips on the front of the scoop where it meets the bonnet and where the top scoop entry is was cracked really bad and peeling 
 
Damaged areas sanded 
742561D8-D24B-4A7E-8929-4364045CA06B_zps
 
Sanded and primed damaged areas 
664232B4-F712-4EC2-9532-34DB0046D58F_zps
 
 
Second coat of base coat 
605DBC72-E09B-4F32-B39F-B9BFDDAC264F_zps
 
 
 
Finished and fitted to the car :) 
B9EF2DB6-C918-413C-8310-F8AF4D4F3D32_zps
 
 
Thats it for now guys, im hoping to take the headers in this week to be ceramic coated :D

In Topic: DIY WRX/Forester Diff bush inserts

09 June 2017 - 08:32 AM

Hey mate awsome writeup !!
Are these void inserts mainly for fixing the oem bushes with the voids . Ive been looking into doing this but the new diff hanger bushes im getting are solid . Does that mean i wont need the void inserts at all ?

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

 

Hey mate, yes theyre only for filling diff bushes with voids (older style as pictured). If your new bushes are solid, you wont need these, I could have completely replaced the diff bush, but 1. i was moderately lazy and didnt want to pull the diff out and 2. i feel these are a happy medium between solid poly bushes and oem slop in terms of NVH 


In Topic: 1997 Subaru Impreza gc8

04 May 2017 - 02:01 PM

Hey mate, 53 is the fuel pump/circuit which you seem to have found out. 

 

 

There are a few things to check, Firstly, have someone turn the key to reds while you have your back seats down and listen for the pump priming. Second would be to check the large 30 amp fuses in the engine bay fusebox, this should be called the SFB fuse, probably popped.  the fuel pump wiring under the rear seats, it is very common for these to burn out. pull the back seat up and check and lastly i would pull the pump out and bench test it with a battery to make sure it actually works :) 


In Topic: GCEBE - Abrahams 1998 GC8 WRX

01 May 2017 - 10:25 PM



Nice read mate. Very similar to my 98 hatch. Did you end up sorting the iacv problem I changed afm iacv and nuetral switch and still no good. Mine also started doing the dick clutch think after I put another box in recently. Just havnt had time to fix it. Keep us updated

 

Thanks mate, bleh im glad im not the only one with these issues! let me know what your resolution is for the clutch dink mate! really keen to get some other opinions on it, apart from pulling the box and redoing the clutch and changing the master with a geniune one, im lost. I think i will just live with it until i either find a simple solution or need to replace the clutch haha. 

 

In terms of iacv, still happening, im still tossing up what direction to go with the car, but it may probably be worth taking to a suby specialist, ive spent so much time and money replacing parts and im not over it, but im letting these things worry me less and less every day, i would like to get them fixed, but i just dont have the time to take it to a shop. 

 

_____________________________

 

time for an update! 

 

Decided to do some more work on the rig. Just a few maintenance items and something a little different ;) 
 
Spent some time on the last public holiday pulling out my Crank and Cam Sensors to clean them, read online that when these get coated in crap, the engine may run rough etc, it wasnt running bad, but cleaning them made it feel a little more punchy and rev happy - although this could be the placebo effect, i would like to think it made a difference :) 
 
Terrible location of the crank sensor 
1DE99194-73CF-4B6C-BC40-0C9ADED86178_zps
 
Filthy Crank Sensor 
2C0A0C4A-D106-42D8-95D4-55FD4ABF6CDF_zps
 
Pretty Gross Cam Sensor 
FF4D424A-F830-4C43-AAEF-0BA5ECEAE378_zps
 
Also spent some time straightening/removing bent intercooler fins, these were horrid, i tried to straighten them but they were pretty much all brittle and snapped off - by snapped off and my removing of them, i mean the 2mm or so that protrudes from the core, please dont flame me for doing this, im pretty sure the tiny bit of material removed wont effect the intercooler nearly as much as having 80% or so of the core blocked as it was before. 
 
Core before 
6B206E47-EFC5-4B21-962F-1280DF9A7233_zps
 
In this picture you can see what i mean by bent fins that are sheared/bent and screwed, only about 2mm as mentioned above
012708F4-E5FB-4B70-84BA-1689BD7B1378_zps
 
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FB7AAA0E-8810-4544-85A0-B73CB8B11550_zps
 
7C93EAA0-DBA5-4CD7-BC2C-AFB987EAEB00_zps
 
Core After 
Although not every fin is 100% dead straight, at least now there is a possibility for some flow of air through the IC instead of the blocked crap from before. 
93358D15-823C-4290-A44A-836D179A67A0_zps
 
Im going to take the car to work tomorrow so i will see if cleaning up the IC helps at all, i would hope so, Removing the crap fins took around 3 hours to do, i used tweezers and picked pretty much every fin one by one 
 
One last little thing i did was made a new shifter - I know it doesnt have a H pattern and is defectable, but i dont intend on keeping it on for ages its more of a novelty! 
 
I will try and get some better pictures in the morning but for now these will do :) 
 
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Hit me up with any questions. 

In Topic: GCEBE - Abrahams 1998 GC8 WRX

18 April 2017 - 09:55 PM

Yeah, I remember doing my rear strut brace, it tested my patience getting to those strut bolts.

yeah haha was a PITA, took a long time to get them undone and done back up, i have an air ratchet, but i was considering getting a milwaukee battery ratchet to help in the future :) 


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