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Member Since 21 Nov 2016
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 02:48 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Side of highway in Ballina HELP

06 December 2018 - 11:00 AM



I'm assuming there's no excess water out of the exhaust?  No oil in the water, check the radiator cap & please don't burn yourself.  When opening the radiator cap note how much pressure it's under.  If there's no pressure there then it's another clue how bad the leak is.


Does the steam keep coming out after the engine is shut off?  Does it drip / pool under the car?


If the loss only occurs under load then it could be anything as you suggest.  How long has the water pump been in the car?  I've been told by a mechanic to change the water pump about every second cam belt change as a pre-caution.  How old are the radiator hoses.


Yes a small tear in a radiator hose will show up as per your video but also a leaking water pump can do the same.  Hoping the brains trust on this forum can help but I'd be doing a process of elimination but that'll require having the car home.


I always start at the cheaper end with pulling and checking radiator radiator hoses, old hoses will crack especially under the clamps.  if it's not the hoses then it'll usually be a seal or the pump.  In the worst case a welch plug / block issues or a bit easier the radiator but it doesn't look like it's the radiator from the video.


One last bush mechanic trick for small radiator leaks as a get home measure is to put ground black pepper into the radiator fluid.  It's not good for the pump and you'll need to give the cooling system a good flush during the repair but it can plug the leak enough to get the car home.


Good luck.

In Topic: My 99 GT Foz

05 December 2018 - 11:50 PM

Yep, looks very schmick.


Unfortunately I'm in SA & the more bling the more it's noticed by the Gendarmes so the bigger chance to have to take it over the dreaded Regency pits.  A long while back a work mate was pulled over in his very immaculate EB GT and was duly informed things didn't look right so it had to go to Regency.  Two trips later they let through his very mint close to original GT but it cost him each time and they picked up on things he or his mechanic weren't even aware of.  Beware.

In Topic: 25D Tings - Barbbachello's 98 Westinghouse RX

27 November 2018 - 04:50 PM

Doing a sweet rebuild on your Gen2, best of luck with the build & keep it going.  btw the new snail housing looks fab.

In Topic: my liberty auto prob

26 November 2018 - 10:58 AM

I think most people would want to know which model of Subaru you have that's causing you hassles?


First up is there enough fluid in the transmission (trans)?  Have you checked the trans dip stick if there's enough fluid?  All autos trans used to be checked for correct fluid level when hot but most now also have cold check lines so can be checked first up in the morning.  If checking the fluid level when hot make sure to set the parking brake on, I usually will also have my foot on the brakes as well, move the selector lever to all positions for a number of seconds before putting it in Park and checking the trans dip stick.


That said, how long since you've had the auto trans serviced?  Most auto trans need servicing every year generally to change the filter and to change the oil.  Actually when an auto trans is serviced it really only changes about 1/3 of the trans oil unless you have a full flush hence the BIG need to have the trans regularly serviced.


If auto trans fluid is worked too hard by getting it too hot the fluid will change from the normal red colour to brown.  If your auto trans fluid on the dip stick is anywhere a shade of brown then get it serviced pronto as overheated brown trans oil does not lubricate as well as fresh oil so is prematurely wearing your trans.


If after the above it still sits in second rather than going into first then if it was a fully hydraulic/mechanical trans that suggests a blocked hydraulic passage way which controls the moding of the trans and that's not a cheap fix.  With modern Engine Control Unit (ECU) / Trans Control Unit (TCU) controlled trans it could be as simple as a failed pressure switch which means the TCU isn't receiving the right data to mode correctly.  Most likely a TCU would be throwing a code as well with what it thinks is wrong if you can find a way to read out the TCU codes.


Good luck.

In Topic: 2005 Impreza GX 2.0L - Won’t Start

10 September 2018 - 12:29 AM

Well, if it's cranking then that's a good thing.


My old beast would do the same and the culprit was the crank angle sensor.  Didn't get a CEL code to highlight the problem for a number of months yet when it was warmed up it just wouldn't start but would crank over.  Easiest test to identify if it's the crank angle sensor is to keep a spray bottle of water in the car and when it won't start (when hot) then spray a bit of water on the crank angle sensor to cool it down.  If your car starts after spraying the sensor then that's your culprit.  I hit PartSouq to find the part number then eBay to find a new replacement; it was cheap and not hard to fit.


I also replaced the cam angle sensor at the same time as it wasn't expensive from eBay and it's just another sensor I wanted to not have to worry about.


Otherwise if it's not the above then after cranking is there a reasonable smell of fuel out the exhaust pipe?  If you can smell fuel then the injectors are squirting but the plugs aren't firing.  When it does act up then plugging in an old style timing light will tell you if the ignition is working or not.  With mine there was advice on this forum of something like a vacuum fuel cut off sensor.  I was told to ensure the hose to it was in good condition and secure.  Luckily my car had already had that hose replaced but a different small diameter vacuum hose literally cracked to pieces while I was fiddling around that same area.


Only other thing I can think of is when you first crank it up in the morning do you hear the fuel pump charge the system?  I will always let a fuel injected (including electric fuel pump to carburettor) vehicles pressurise the fuel system before trying to kick it in the guts.  I have two reasons for this:  1.  It lets me check listen that the fuel pump is working and I get to know the normal sound of the pump.  If the pump sounds different then I have an inkling something may be going west with the fuel system.  2.  Most injected cars won't start until the fuel system is at proper fuel pressure so cranking it before the pump has charged the system generally does nothing until it's up to pressure (although I've seen an early model V6 Dunnydore with a dead fuel pump cough & splutter on a couple of cylinders simply by sucking fuel out of the injectors).