dannal

Alrighty then!!!  I have the Liberty back and here are the codes that continually show up:

p0743 - TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CIRCUIT

p0758 - SHIFT SOLENOID B

p0753 - SHIFT SOLENOID A

p1707 - AT AWD SOLENOID VALVE CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

p0763 - SHIFT SOLENOID C

p0768 - SHIFT SOLENOID D

As it stands now, I have replaced the TCU and have so far removed the CAN error so the ECU and TCU appears to be communicating correctly now.  I don't believe the transmission is faulty, I believe there is some type of electrical issue causing the transmission to enter limp mode and throw out all of these errors.  Some guy on the following forum https://forums.nasio...d.php?t=2801503 had similar error codes when he started messing around with the electrics.  The problem is that I haven't touched the car and wouldn't know where to start.

Sorry, still waiting for my mechanic to be available to pick it up and bring home.

Is the ECU CAN Comms failure (P0600) a clue?

 

Maybe the failure is ECU/TCU communication, and its not the trans at all.  Not sure if they use CAN from ECU to TCU.

 

It might be worth checking ECU wiring and plugs are all ok.  Think all Sub's are in the passenger footwell under the carpet. Pull it and give all the plugs a good clean and inspection.

 

Do you know the history of the car ?

I will have to wait to get the car back from the mechanic next week before I can check those connections.  I have checked the wiring and plugs on top of the trans under the bonnet and they appeared to be ok.  I pulled them apart, gave them a good wiggle and deemed it good lol.

I don't know the history of the car but the bloke I got it from is a real piece of work.  I probably would have folded the goose in half in my angrier younger days :-p

You’re in Benders? Which part? I’m in Flora Hill.

That’s a fair list of issues. Some things you could try out for cheap - and get to know your ride a bit better:

- check all fuses - under bonnet, somewhere near the driver’s feet (some are in the side kick panel, earlier models are above the driver’s feet on the rhs). There’s also usually a “2wd” fuse holder on the strut tower or firewall. This is usually used when towing on the rear wheels.

- One at a time, disconnect the plugs on the engine and the gearbox, check for corrosion in the plug connections. Spray some WD40 into the plug and clip it back together. If there is some corrosion present, try cleaning it up with a small knife (scrape the corrosion effected area). Make sure you disconnect the battery before doing this.

- “the battery dance” - disconnect the battery overnight. Connect it in the morning, start the car and let it idle until the coolant fans have cycled at least once. Don’t touch the throttle until after the fans have cycled. Check the check engine light to see if it’s illuminated - same for the rest of your warning lights. If ok, go for a drive and see what shows up. Check codes.

- get a digital factory service manual - learn how to read the codes without a code reader. There’s a set of plugs under/near the steering column for the engine ECU, plug these together, turn the ignition ON (engine off) and count the flashes from the check engine light. Long flashes = ten, short = one. So long, long, short, short, short is a code 23. If there are several codes the light will flash each code onenafter thenother then loop back to the first one. If no stored codes, it will flash its model designation in a loop. This is also documented in code lists. Hopefully you’ll be able to manually (and very cheaply) read the transmission control unit (TCU) codes too. This is helpful when you swap out one sensor then check to see if anything has changed before going for the next unit.

You might find that one sensor’s operation effects other sensors that may throw them out of normal operation, thus multiple codes. Your throttle position sensor could also effect the TCU and its sensors.

Cheers

Bennie

Yes mate, Epsom/Huntly here.

I apologise again for my lack of info.  I have been dealing with this car for so long whilst juggling 5 kids and the rest of life lol.

I checked all of the fuses manually beside the steering column and near the strut tower but I don't know how comprehensively.  I removed each fuse, checked it for continuity and then replaced it.  Everything "looked" ok and not a single fuse failed so I had ruled that out.

I did disconnect the battery several times for several days before starting and running but there wasn't any change.

The mechanic has scanned the ECU and TCU several times for codes as well as resetting them but they have returned.

I was told by a transmission specialist that when these transmissions go they never go this bad.  You might get 1 or 2 codes but never most of them lol.  It's so frustrating because it was running faultlessly one minute and then like this the next.

Thanks again for your help Bennie

I’m not an auto guy but I’m waiting for the list of codes. These will no doubt point you in the right direction. It could also be that the car had an auto box swap from another year model that’s not 100% compatible. Can you pull the trans code too? It should be on the bell housing somewhere. On manuals it’s near the starter motor on the passenger’s side of the bellhousing.

What “new car” maintenance have you done? Fluid flush and new filter in the trans?

Cheers

Bennie

I have attached a photo of the paperwork with the error codes on it.  I also realised we're in the same town lol.  The throttle position sensor is bad but I don't want to replace it yet.

I don't know if it has had a box swap - the problem I have with a lot of possible problems is that it was working faultlessly for weeks before it went from having 1 issue to several.

I haven't done any maintenance as I don't want to blow money on servicing a car if it's not economically viable to repair - I don't want to throw away good money after bad :-(

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