rexhunta

So it's all in. I added in a Haltech WB-1, reconfigured all the sensors so they talked properly, low and behold it fired off first go, held idle, made no funny noises. I was quite suprised since I used the RS Liberty map. But we'll take wins where we can ! Thanks to the Haltech forums on FB, I searched anything and everything and found every question I wrote down on a sheet of paper, so i didn't even need to post any questions, someone already had for me. Considering converting this to DBW, MAP, bigger injectors and removing all the IASC, I was super suprised the Haltech was smart enough to calculate the lot and sort something out, completely impressed. 

I put a RB26DETT Boost Solenoid for the controller, I've used these in multiple cars and they work great for simple setups like this. 

Here's a flick of the first start.

https://imgur.com/Z07SQqu

https://youtube.com/shorts/n3J7-_Zm26M?si=Nx4L87Ju3yE1fivd

Currently just waiting on a callback to find out where I can get it onto the awd dyno, but currently the WB-1 setup is definitely helping the map, I've cruised the block a couple of times, and the AF/R is right where I consider would be perfect for it. I'm am highly thinking about dumping the AEM wideband and grabbing the Haltech CAN gauge. 

While I've been waiting picked up this GD WRX interior, so much better, and suits the blue door card and carpet. Got rid of a heap of human slim and liquids, although they do need another clean. Grabbed them quick as I could, they're the best looking set I've seen in a while with all good bolsters. 





Yesterday cleaned the engine bay a bit more, modified the brackets for the engine cover so it hid the throttle body and boost controller, only thing that gives it away is the controller on the right hand side strut tower. 

Haltech is mounted in the factory spot, when you flip down the coin tray, it gives direct access to the usb port. 

​​​​​​​Anyway, Pete. 



 

This may be something that won't work (I don't know much on anything other than gen3 stuff), but on the gen3, the FPR's are sitting in the lines next to the strut tower (where your canister filter sits). Would it be possible to do something similar, so if this one fails its a simple swap rather than having to pull manifolds etc?

Looking like there's been some serious progression though, sweet!

Cheers,
Ben

I do have the aeroflow adaptor for this fuel rail but i wanted to keep the stock fpr for now, i had a tomei rrfpr but i was trying to steer away from it. I think it looks pretty stock and you wouldn't tell unless you knew ej22s.

Top effort Pete!

The details/pics involving the EJ253 top feed injector mod would be interesting to see. I haven’t heard of this being a common mod.

How much to go now before you get it fired up again and off to a dyno?

Cheers

Bennie

I haven't personally seen it been done before, I just grabbed what I had, measured and had a play, which is where I get most of mods from the last 20+ years.

Stole this photo off the net, but this is what the stock injector rail looks like on a 251, notice how the fpr swoops in, that generally sits in behind the 3rd runner in front of where my inlet to the turbo would be. I cut the fpr flange off, bored the internal so it would fit tight and deep back onto the fuel rail about 20mm, then tigged it all back up. I did have to cut the rail on the other side, and put a hose clamp lip back around it as the 251 manifold is wider then the ej22 manifold, other wise i would of just swapped the entire lot in and saved time. The Injectors are the same distance apart, and sit at the same height, and all the other brackets went back into the same place on the 22 manifold in the end. 

Very nice indeed. I love the 'old on the outside, new underneath' type builds.

 

Well done!

Thank you, slowly will get there. 

EJ22 rods are the exact same as the rods from the same era turbo engine. Same as even the STi from the late 90s

The EJ22 can and will handle 14+ PSI quite happily tuned accordingly.

Not going for anything massive at this stage on this motor, happy to be around 6 psi. After this is all in and sorted/tuned, i'll start getting the spare 205 machined I have, and put some parts away for that. Heading to Japan in August so may even get some goodies there. 

So in the end, after a decent Bosch order. 

60mm DBW Throttle Body

DBW Pedal

3 bar map and air temp sensor.

Air temp sensor

Water Temp sensor

Knock sensor

630cc injectors

all the connectors to suit everything. 

I have my top feed rail ready, think I may need to get the bottom o rings, once I start pulling everything apart I'll work it out then. Heading to Perth/Melbourne this weekend so if I get a chance I'll get a multitude of coloured wires, if not i'll sort it out as I go. Plenty of time, Have proved it runs well enough for the last 4 months, time to pull it apart again