92 replies to this topic

[Andyjs2]

Just thought I'd make a post to keep a nice record of everything I'd like to get done to my baby and get some opinions from people with first hand experience about the parts I've mentioned, and important things I may have missed

11/2008 GT Spec.B Liberty
6 speed manual


The car is specifically street, I won't be taking it to the track or drags any time soon(except maybe an amateur track day just to have a feel of what i can get out of it) and I just wanna spend some time and money making it even more fun that it already is, while staying reliable and keeping noise to a minimum

I'll be doing all the work myself, with the help of my dad who's conveniently a mechanic


CURRENT ENGINE/DRIVE MODS:
Gfb bov
High flow foam air filter
resonator replaced with hks funnel
MRT 3" TBE
MRT XB tune
Cobb short shifter
(Had positive shift kit and front and rear shift bushes installed, but they made some very loud and annoying noises, which is not on when all you wanna do is hear the sweet sweet rumble of the exhaust)

FUTURE PLANS:
VF52 TURBO (if second hand, worth reconditioning?)
Mishimoto intercooler
Cobb 3 port boost solenoid
Turbo blanket and heat shield
Silicone turbo inlet and maf hose
Fuel pump upgrade?
autometer boost gauge AU3607 mechanical/analogue (simply because they are cool) (also want to install a dimmer on a relay with the headlights to match the dash brightness day and night)

Dyno? Retune from somewhere that does ECUtek (so I don't have to unlock it and frankly I think it works perfectly as it is) but preferably not MRT... $$$
Also runs extremely rich, like my lovely chrome tips turn black within a couple of days, I know this is for safety, but surely we could lean it out a bit more and still keep it out of any danger zones

I've based my choices on bigger turbo = bigger lag, so I'm aiming to minimise the spool time to be hopefully the same (or better) than it is now after the upgrade, and also keep it boosting safely and reliably

CURRENT SUSPENSION/HANDLING:
stock springs and shocks
Whiteline adjustable sway bars on lowest settings
20mm rear
24mm front (from memory)
STI front strut brace
Very worn S001 215/45 tyres

FUTURE PLANS:
(tyres are coming from tax return so all this will be completed at the same time early july)

Whiteline anti-lift kit (dependant on noise increase)
Stiffen existing rear sway bar? Front?
Sti springs (currently on their way)
S001 tyres 215 or 225 (depends what's cheaper)

I literally have been up all night, many nights just researching and researching every tiny detail about every part I've mentioned and I know they all have pros and cons so I'd like some advice from people who have tried them before

Any and all help it's appreciated

[bigBADbenny]

Vf52 just has more top end than the stock vf46.

You'll need a set of avo HD rsb mounts - really.

All those mods are great, but personally I'd just do the pump, eg DW65c, 3port and optionally the vf52 with a 3" dump pipe: with a ThrottleHappy tune.

The tune with its 3 stage SI drive controlled boost levels is the most important upgrade imho.

And put the savings into Shockworks coil overs, decent tyres and pads.
Shockworks are so good stock sways will suffice: more savings.

Liberty has fairly limited suspension travel so better handling on the limit comes from allowing the chassis to breath with excellent dampers promoting control. If you're in Melb you can sample my car with all these basic mods

http://forum.liberty...hp?f=10&t=20939

In my stockpile is a PW TMIC, AVO 400S, EL headers, injectors etc, yet the car is really nice with the current mod list so I'm in no rush to do more upgrades just yet

[Andyjs2]

Correct, so should get more consistent boost all the way through the Rev range instead of dropping off after 4000-4500rpm

The VF52 should bolt straight up to the custom mrt 3" dump
Which also has the 3 stage map (was done when I bought the car, would love to feel the difference in the stock si drive modes haha)

Coilovers are not even in question right now haha, have some pretty gnarly driveways in my daily routes, plus I like the way my spine sits

Currently already have the sway bars installed

I'm in newcastle man, haha but thanks for the offer! Appreciated

Had the car on a really twisty road between here and sydney, and it handled beautifully on near bald tyres and stock springs so I don't think I'll need to go for coils any time soon

I'll see how it goes after new tyres and springs and ALK

[Andyjs2]

How does the 400s go over stock?
Cost?

I haven't really considered any aftermarket turbos as of yet

[bigBADbenny]

With the right tune you'll be fine with the vf46 & 52 w/ 18 psi max or around 160 - 180 atw respectively.
Aftermarket turbos support higher flow so eg the avo in this instance would add 20ish kw at the same boost and be capable of safely topping out at 24psi with a new STi block or built motor.

The trick is to play it safe with the ej255 unless you want to go built

A noted Qld tuner had his at 180 atw at 12psi, vf52 & e85.

[Andyjs2]

I have heard the pistons are like glass haha
I don't plan on doing any internal upgrades as of yet, so I'll be keeping it around 16-18 psi

but if I come into a large sum of money sometime in the near future...
But damn 24psi sounds like a whole lot of fun haha

[bigBADbenny]

Some members on Liberty Club claim 250atw can be done reliably on the stock block with the right supporting mods, those are garage88 and insight customers.
Msr has achieved 200atw with vf52 and supporting mods on a Lib.
But my pref is to err on the side of caution until a plan b is in place

I have to add that the coilovers I have are far superior to any strut new or used in terms of bump travel, comfort, control and safety. 5 up with luggage, cobbled speed bumps, braking bumps, all taken in stride. They're not really noticeable until they're swallowing up bumps keeping the car composed. They define the car.

[alexGT]

My VF46 tune doesn't drop off until after 5200rpm, and even then it only loses 20kw atw till redline.

 

I understand VF52 is easy because it's bolt on but I don't understand spending like $1k on a turbo that nets you ~20-25kw atw with slightly more lag?

 

I'd be upgrading to something a bit fancier which has a broader power band "under the curve" power is far more beneficial unless you own a drag car

[bigBADbenny]

That's why I have the 2871r based avo option for more flow with similar response to stock due to the bb core and smallish 3/4 exhaust housing; 15psi should get around 180atw on 98, holding that boost through the revs.
I'm waiting till I have an oil cooler, oil temp and pressure gauge, wrap and shield the headers, and prepare fuel lines and fpr for the billet rails and tgv deletes also in the stash.
Most of that is unnecessary but I love overkill.

You might want to consider an afr sensor bung on your dump before it's installed as well.
The plx afr is one my tuner recommends for reliability and accuracy.

And DIY or avo HD rsb mounts are essential.

For monitoring ECU parameters, I recommend the btssm app with its BT obdii plug or tactrix via USB otg. Being SSM based its a lot more useful that Torque. But Torque is better than nothing at all.

[Andyjs2]

Yea, well I'm not 100% set on the vf52 either for the exact same reason, a lot of money and not much gain, which is why I'm getting some other opinions, which I've already learnt quite a bit!

But obviously the simplicity of bolting on a bigger turbo is attractive
What would be involved in converting an aftermarket turbo?

Where does the afr sensor go to?(as in, from the dump to...) Sorry if thats a stupid question, does it replace a stock afr or does it communicate separately with a flashed ecu, or does it simply tell you the ratio

I wouldn't mind heavy duty links, but whiteline only sold adjustable ones for my car, which was a waste of money imo because I wouldn't need to adjust them

[Andyjs2]

Is it just like a direct more reliable upgrade from the stock o2 sensor
Similar to the boost solenoid?

[bigBADbenny]

If you're sticking with tmic there's stock replacement turbos available with flanged compressor outlets: 100% bolt on. Eg for my08-14 WRX, my07-09 lib.
Eg avo 380 and 400lgt, Blouch 380 Xt, six star speed, BNR, tomei, kinagawa and kando are various options

The afr gauge is for more accurate tuning as the stock narrowband afr isn't very accurate towards the richer end below stoich

Your rear swaybar mounts will snap off without reinforcement. Research this, it's a seperate issue to links etc.

[Andyjs2]

Also looked into avo HD mounts

I'm going to call a few places and enquire about cost etc for aftermarket turbos
A place called GCG specialises in Garrett and I can expect to pay over $2000

So a with the wideband AFR, it's just to help tune the car and not really beneficial other than that? (I feel like I'm imagining it wrong, I'm seeing it as just a gauge that tells you the ratio, but does it replace a stock part to communicate with the ecu?)
I would really like to run a little less rich than what it is now, because I think it's way over the top at the moment, black exhausts within a couple.of days

[bigBADbenny]

In my experience, no.
The safer tune will err on the rich, not lean, side.
The afr helps the tuner to fine tune the air fuel ratio.
And allows the driver to spot issues via the gauge.

I'd advise getting the cars handling, braking & tune etc sorted, before blowing your budget on 2k turbos. You'll love it with a good tune for example

Did you look at the bolt on offerings from the mfgs I listed? Gcg don't really have a bolt-on upgrade for your car... That I could see.

For ultimate performance, full custom V band is the way to go. For the ej255, bolt-on is the realistic option.

[Andyjs2]

It's got a fairly high end tune (supposedly they say 180kw but that sounds a bit over the top for just an exhaust and tune)

[bigBADbenny]

Who tuned it?

Have you read Jacksons profile?
His journey from bolt-on mods to the next level...
A few grand to stage three, tens of thousands to where he's about to be. A good workshop/tuner and a great plan.
http://forum.liberty...a2840bcc6df8656

[Andyjs2]

MRT in sydney

I shall check it out now

[bigBADbenny]

All I can say is their rep on subie forums requires some extra research by you.

Start here:
https://www.google.c...sn.au mrt tunes

[Andyjs2]

Mrt are a very reputable name, and specialise in subaru tunes

Their downfall is they have a very high price and it's about 2 hours from my place

Edit: and their generic tunes are something to definitely stay away from, I'm lucky I got away before I did any real damage
No more recommendation

[Andyjs2]

Just noticed you updated the post, and I haven't yet looked at the direct bolt ons you mentioned, but I've saved them and will look this afternoon