710 replies to this topic

[B4TT]

LOL. for someone who was wanting the most out of their car it would probably be a good thing to play around with . The AVCS for some reason gets the recognition (not sure why) but yeah they also have AVLS

[Soop]

It'd be interesting if you could just turn the big cam on manually .

[JMP]

you can if you really want with the vipec... You could set a digital input as an over-ride for the solenoid output, then add a switch which goes to ground on that input. when switch is on, it actuates the lift solenoid, when it's off, it works on the target map. You probably dont want to try and actuate the lift at idle if your oil pressure isn't good at idle. On my vipec, I've got a digital input setup with a switch to change between boost maps, one for the Mrs and one for me

[DRIVER]

On my vipec, I've got a digital input setup with a switch to change between boost maps, one for the Mrs and one for me

hehehehe top stuff i like that

[Jeff]

the AVCS is variable, there's a cam timing map for that. The lift actuation isn't variable. Playing with the AVCS around the lift actuation point will help smooth it out, but will take quite a bit of dyno time ($$)

Here's an example of an AVCS map from a V88 Vipec:

Now its getting really interesting......

[DukeNik'em]

You could set a digital input as an over-ride for the solenoid output, then add a switch which goes to ground on that input. when switch is on, it actuates the lift solenoid, when it's off, it works on the target map.

On my vipec, I've got a digital input setup with a switch to change between boost maps, one for the Mrs and one for me

Ahh the Ancient Japanese art of Choo-Ning......

Left of field question, would you expect it to be detrimental to the engine if you were to switch boost maps constantly.....say swapping drivers day to day. Or are you the usual driver or don't daily drive?

Nick

[Jeff]

It wouldn't be harmfull for the engine to swap between tunes if both the tunes are "safe". it all depends on the tunes But I'm assuming that his tunes are pretty much spot on. probably just dropped the boost on the Mrs' tune and smoothed the band out.

[JMP]

my car's tuned with MAP as the load reference. The "MAP switch" occurs with the actual boost solenoid duty cycle target maps. So absolutely no ill effects by switching at all. I could also have it setup to change between ignition or fuel maps, but it's not required with the way my engine's tuned. Basically on Boost Target map 1, it runs 0-14psi with no agressive ramping of the boost curve, boost map 2 runs to 19psi and I've set it up so hte boost comes on a lot harder by holding the progate shut for a fair period of time... Engine is tuned all the way up to 250kpa so it doesn't care what load it runs to in that range. I guess I should put up a thread about my own car. Jason

[DukeNik'em]

It wouldn't be harmfull for the engine to swap between tunes if both the tunes are "safe". it all depends on the tunes But I'm assuming that his tunes are pretty much spot on. probably just dropped the boost on the Mrs' tune and smoothed the band out.

Yeah, cos' I was thinking of those I know who have a Race Spec tune and a Street Spec tune, and could only imagine the sort of wear the engine would have from swapping between them too often. But that would be a useful idea, to tame the car back in one tune, and just push the limits a tad with the second. If P-platers were still allowed to drive turbos it'd be a good way to warm them up to the car, by tuning it back and gradually up-speccing. And the old man could still thrash it with his own tune......

I guess I should put up a thread about my own car.

Jason

Ahh....by the sounds of it YES PLEASE!! I've been chatting with a Mech Apprentice mate (yeah I know Apprentice blah blah) and he's right into the mapping and tuning, hooking the Laptop and everything, I never realized how much power can be tapped out or how beneficial the correct tune is. The STi was always factory tuned......hmmm should investimagate Management Units for the Cos.

Nick

[Xon]

It'd be better for the engine than just driving around on an aggressive tune all day I expect, at least it would get some relief when the Mrs drives it

[Shiv]

Caught up with Tristan last nite and he took me for a pretty decent spin in the thing and WOW....its fkn goood! That thing sounds out of this world once the VTAK kicks in around 4K and you can feel it as well. It doesn't pin you back in your seat like a turbo does but its still goes pretty hard for a 3.0L. Even generated a bit wheel spin but I think thats because of the tyres I swear that thing sounds like a Porsche. Every time he gave it the balls, I'd be questioning if it were his car, it just begs belief. You wouldn't expect that nugget of his to make such music, haha....but overall, a great package and it seems theres a significant amount of power that can be extracted in time so this toy should keep Tristan for some time I'd imagine.

[Soop]

Tristan, don't put an RX kit on it. Don't fix the paint. Leave it as it is. Spend your time and money on the engine.

[Blaeven]

Tristan, don't put an RX kit on it.
Don't fix the paint. Leave it as it is.

Spend your time and money on the engine.

kinda conforms to what i've always been saying

performance > looks

though i'm going to sort out suspension before i do more engine work...

[Dylan]

SUSPENSION? AGAIN!? WHAT?

[Soop]

Swaybars. Front and rear. 22mm+... Then some big f*ck off brakes. Why not? Then possibly look at some braces, if in future you do find some rainbows and leprechauns inside your motor that will let it make *maxpowahz, the torque won't twist the chassis. What arse end is in it? Can you get a 4.44 R180?

[Blaeven]

Swaybars. Front and rear. 22mm+...
Then some big f*ck off brakes. Why not?
Then possibly look at some braces, if in future you do find some rainbows and leprechauns inside your motor that will let it make *maxpowahz, the torque won't twist the chassis.

What arse end is in it?

Can you get a 4.44 R180?

i assume it's got the RX 4.11 rear diff... it's not a lock diff...

also, speaking of the drive train, on the rollers, the car made constant 60:40 rear split... so it doesn't understeer anywhere near like i thought it was going to...

i'm going to go 22mm front and 24mm rear (for even less understeer) with HD end links
anti-lift kit (and i think i would like some alloy control arms)
i'm getting 294mm two pots from alex (277 rear)\
and it has a front strut brace, just needs a rear one...

[B4TT]

Why are the rears only 277?? Im not sure about the GTB's but the B4 has 290mm Rears as stock.

[Blaeven]

Why are the rears only 277?? Im not sure about the GTB's but the B4 has 290mm Rears as stock.

they aren't his old ones, they are ones he got with some hubs he bought...

infact, alex... do you have the GT-B ones??

[Soop]

60:40? So its mainly FWD, or did you get it backwards? By "Its not a lock diff" I presume you mean its an open center?

[Scuba-Roo]

How are them teins going? Not too rough on the road? Thought about an outback front bar colour coded? It would look errrm different