410 replies to this topic

[Jimbo]

Did you remember to re connect the hose that goes from the black box through the inner guard?

[LukeFranky]

Did you remember to re connect the hose that goes from the black box through the inner guard? 

- Yes, that's the one going to the vacuum tank, correct? There's vacuum on that hose, but no vacuum on line 1 like there normally is. The only thing in-between those two lines is a single solenoid.

[Robbks]

what you need to do to clear the vac lines of UEC is plug in the test-mode connectors and run the car
that sets all the fans and solenoids into cycling on and off, and it allows the lines to clear,
aswell as giving you any new CEL codes.

put the bypass of the Positive Pressure port back in and see if the surging continues.

you mentioned something about blocking off the line to the DPS?? Don;t do that.

 

[LukeFranky]

I'll try to sort out the UEC problem tonight, but I want to clarify a few things:

 

First test: Blocked off the boost controller. Car still surged.

Second: Disconnected the top (positive) ECV hose and plugged it. No surging.

Third: T'd a hose from the top of the ECV to the spout on the U piece. Wasn't sure what to do with the line that normally goes to the U piece spout so I blocked it off. No surging.

 

I'm guessing I did the third test wrong. I think I missed something. Do you mind re-explaining the bypass?

 

Edit: Read the tutorial. Looks like I was supposed to T the DPS and block off the line from the BBoD that normally goes to the ECV. Correct?

[Robbks]

 

Read the tutorial. Looks like I was supposed to T the DPS and block off the line from the BBoD that normally goes to the ECV. Correct?

 

Correct.

I went a full step further and completely removed all of the excess plumbing involved from the port on the TMIC elbow all the way to the PPP (Positive Pressure Port), including solenoids and everything.
Solenoids can be replaced with a matching resistor to keep the ECU happy.

you simply control the amount of secondary pre-spool with manual mechanical adjustment of the ECV.
remembering that exhaust pressure will also be trying to blow open the ECV.

[LukeFranky]

Should solenoid 3 click open in diagnostic mode? It's not. Normally it is open and that line has vacuum.

[LukeFranky]

Solenoid 1 (I think) isn't clicking either. 3rd one from the drivers side.

[natho]

I found to clean them properly i needed to power them each one at a time and hold it open, blowing cleaning solution through with an air compressor. far more came out doing this than trying to clean them in diagnostic mode.

 

testing that solenoid individually would also help you determine if it's faulty.

[LukeFranky]

Thanks natho. What's the easiest way to test them on their own?

[CRUISN]

12v power supply. Remove and clean out of the car.

[LukeFranky]

3 of these stupid things don't click.

1. Intake air control solenoid.
2. Supercharged pressure relief valve #1
3. ECV duty solenoid.

Did the UEC screw all these over? I know no 1 was working before. Somehow I always break more than I fix despite trying to do it right...

Easily replaced?

[LukeFranky]

I don't think the diagnostics killed it unless it was a delayed reaction. At least I know the surging had something to do with the ECV.

Can UEC kill solenoids? Seems like common practice so I assumed it was safe. It was only after spraying UEC that things really started to play up.

They're really stuffed too. I did all I could to try and make them work hoping for a blockage or something.

So what now? Insurance scam?

[LukeFranky]

Checked the can of UEC I used. Says "safe on all intake components". I don't get how I managed to screw this up :/

[duncanm]

when you say 'don't click' - is that in test mode or using a 12V source directly to the solenoids.

 

They don't all click in test mode -- best to unplug those three and connect 12V directly to them using an external source.

[LukeFranky]

is that in test mode of using a 12V source directly to the solenoids.

- I wish I was that blonde, but alas, they don't click on 12V.

 

These are simple 12V switches, are they not? Can I find generic replacements that operate the same way and wire them in?

[Robbks]

I realise that what Rob has advised you to do, is for the purpose of checking components separately to see that they were working, but a bit more detail with the instructions would help and is necessary when doing this type of thing... perhaps mentioning what perfoming the task will achieve upfront instead of waiting for the results to determine whether the test accomplished anything.
The intstructions are vague and quite confusing to me & I have a fair idea about this stuff.

It must be even harder for Luke to get his head around it.

The thing is, these components were obviously working if boost was around 16+psi.

The components might have been working, but it only takes one tiny bit of plastic or gunk to jam a solenoid and the whole shooting match comes to an end.
i had this happen one morning,
hadn't touched anything, just got in the car and it would not boost on the secondary,
A tiny bit of plastic had come off one of the solenoid nipples and stuffed itself in the ICV activation solenoid,

The reason I ask for one simple test at a time and wait to see the results is to not put ideas or conclusions in the heads of the people doing the work or overload them with information.
Keep It simple and methodical

As I stated in each test
-Disconnect Wastegate totally, this will test if it's a "boost control" issue
the result was that it still surged, so we can forget about the primary boost control system being the problem.

-disconnect the PPP to the ECV.
the test was positive that it solved the surging problem, indicating a fault with the positive pressure side of the ECV.

So the best step it to 10000000% clean/ replace/ test this area of the control system.

If any of that is vague, diagnosing faults with a TT is not for you.
fork out the $4k and convert the f**king thing or crash it into a power pole

The whole car is going to have issues due to the MAF pipe, Pod filter, silicone intake and Possible ECUtek tune which may have been performed on a car with a cracked intake.

As for the line 6 mod causing issues with factory boost control, that's a load of shit and I know it.
there are many Gen3 TT's I've done it to with and without factory boost control without issue. And I stand by that day after day.




Luke,
As for your last question,
yes they are simple 12v switches

 

Apply 12v they should click ON, remove it and they will click OFF
if not, there's issues and it's usually junk in them

put UEC into all 3 ports on them (the vent is a port, pull the vent caps off and clean them out too)
then cycle them on/ off with 12V direct

but DO NOT apply 12V to them with them connected to the wiring loom/ ECU

[LukeFranky]

As for your last question,

yes they are simple 12v switches

- In that case, would I be able to replace my dodgy ones with something like this: http://www.ebay.com/...p-/221943151149

- Does the resistance and current rating matter a lot and need to be precise? If so, any idea what I'm looking for?

- I'm thinking of finding ones that mimic the operation of the originals, wiring them in and hoping for the best.

 

Apply 12v they should click ON, remove it and they will click OFF

if not, there's issues and it's usually junk in them

- I must have dislodged some crap inside it.

 

put UEC into all 3 ports on them (the vent is a port, pull the vent caps off and clean them out too)

then cycle them on/ off with 12V direct

- Already tried that, nothing. No click.

[LukeFranky]

A tiny bit of plastic had come off one of the solenoid nipples and stuffed itself in the ICV activation solenoid  

- How did you manage to get it out?