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#1 Jimbo

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Posted 20 December 2015 - 03:21 PM

Gents,

So it looks like a quick trip round the corner to the shops (literally) has resulted in something going wrong with the radiator. Got back to the car to see it had wet itself.

It's something like 42 degrees here today, so I'm hoping the heat expansion has caused the top tank to expand temporarily and cause a leak. It looks to be leaking from the crimping at the front of the top tank just infront of where the top hose joins the tank. Fingers crossed it's just the heat and it will contract and be drive-able for a week or so until my new unit arrives.

The AT mumbo-jumbo joins up at the bottom of the radiator and I assume the AT lines run a metal cooling line looped in the bottom tank, with the radiator coming out, is this a good opportunity to purge the old AT fluid? Is it just a matter of disconnecting the lines and letting it drain or is there a way to "force" the AT fluid out while the lines are off?



I'm planning on killing 3 birds with one stone and doing the timing belt at the same time. Now, I have never done this in an AT. Usually when undoing the crank pulley bolt, I would leave it in 4th gear to lock the crank in place, while it comes off. In an AT can it just be left in "P" for the same result?

Any help is appreciated,

Jim


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#2 CRUISN

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Posted 20 December 2015 - 03:51 PM

To force the fluid out you run the car with the trans return line disconnected and in a container.

 

I run it, get about a 1.5 litres out, turn it off, top it up and repeat 3 times. I then repeat the process after a week of driving and the fluid should then be pretty well new.


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#3 Jimbo

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Posted 20 December 2015 - 05:09 PM

Sweet, thanks Mark. Which side of the two fluid lines is the return, passenger or driver's side? Also, which trans fluid did you use?


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#4 Robert

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Posted 20 December 2015 - 05:20 PM

Pull the plug off that would normally would expose the flywheel, it's at the back of the motor near the throttle body

You will be able to jam the ring gear with a pry bar or something :)

#5 Jimbo

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Posted 20 December 2015 - 05:25 PM

Pull the plug off that would normally would expose the flywheel, it's at the back of the motor near the throttle body

You will be able to jam the ring gear with a pry bar or something :)

Ah yeah, that old trick ;)


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#6 Beckers

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Posted 20 December 2015 - 05:27 PM

Pull the plug off that would normally would expose the flywheel, it's at the back of the motor near the throttle body

You will be able to jam the ring gear with a pry bar or something :)

 

Or use my balancer holding tool.

Shame it's in Mexico.

Wobs advice is also solid.



#7 Robert

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Posted 20 December 2015 - 05:31 PM

Or jam a breaker bar under the chassis rail and crank the motor over :P

That one is a little dodgy though

#8 Robbks

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 10:18 AM

Jimbo,
Al's advice has always been Castrol TQ95 (or the new equivalent) and the method Mark pointed out above.

May aswell connect a proper trans cooler inline with the whole shebang while you're going.
it helps to take the load off the coolant system as an added benefit



#9 CRUISN

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 10:51 AM

Indeed a proper trans cooler is a good idea to add. I fitted a Derale one to mine.

Does the A-C rev have the trans filter in the passenger guard?

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#10 Jimbo

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 11:29 AM

From what I can tell, Mark, it looks like the trans filter is integrated into the trans itself. I checked out the FSM and it says the filter is supposed to last the life of the vehicle, ie non-serviceable item.

So basically were saying to bypass the trans cooler which is inergrated in the rad and fit an external air cooler?

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#11 CRUISN

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 12:04 PM

Was asking moreso as mine is in the guard like a Gen4 so not sure on your piping layout as to return line compared to mine.

Run the aftermarket trans cooler in the return line from the radiator cooler. You dont bypass the radiator trans cooler.

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#12 Jimbo

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 07:04 PM

Fingers crossed, looks like the new radiator should show up tomorrow as long as the seller kept their word. I just need to get the damn thing in asap.

Won't have time to fish around for a cooler but it's on the list of things to do.

Edit: Mark, it just came to me actually. When I checked the lines the other day, they both run up the chassis rail and straight to the trans, just to confirm they don't take any other path. Must be the difference with the Sports-shift Auto versus the regular slushbox. I think all turbo models around Rev-C upgraded to it. I can't say I've ever seen the staggered normal shift on any turbo gen3 post Rev C in all the catalogs online. 


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#13 duncanm

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 08:54 PM

From what I can tell, Mark, it looks like the trans filter is integrated into the trans itself. I checked out the FSM and it says the filter is supposed to last the life of the vehicle, ie non-serviceable item.

 

FSM I have says its in the left guard -- from the diagram, looks like it may be bolted to the same bracket the vac tank is on.  Looks like they may have moved it because it fouled the primary dump (NA has it on the side of the trans)

 

It does say its maintenance-free, and only needs replacement if damaged, though.



#14 Jimbo

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 09:47 PM

I might have to double check that one.

I only assumed so as on the trans near the primary dump there's about a 2.5" housing with a large hex head on it. Assumed it was that.
Though in saying that, I find it hard to believe it would never need changing. After 17 years surely it would be in a shit state..

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#15 duncanm

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 09:58 PM

I might have to double check that one.

I only assumed so as on the trans near the primary dump there's about a 2.5" housing with a large hex head on it. Assumed it was that.
Though in saying that, I find it hard to believe it would never need changing. After 17 years surely it would be in a shit state..

 

yeh - if you look in the FSM, the NA has a filter in that spot - turbo has a plate over the same hole.



#16 Jimbo

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 10:35 PM

Ah okay, it must be the plate I'm seeing. Probably share the same case with different internals.

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#17 Jimbo

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Posted 22 December 2015 - 07:42 AM

Comfirmed. Lines go through the driver side guard. Deerp.

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#18 TSG

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Posted 22 December 2015 - 09:10 AM

I think mine has a trans cooler from Subaru, its the extra little one behind the grill right? My radiator also failed as soon as summer hit, but it was just hairline cracks in the header tank, and when under pressure it would run along the top and spray all over the engine bay as I drove along. Mechanic just had it rebuilt as its apparently super common on Subaru's with the plastic header tank.



#19 Jimbo

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Posted 22 December 2015 - 09:17 AM

As in the top tank on the radiator? B4 would have a metal header tank? Am I reading that right?
Maybe if i can find a wrecked AT B4 I can grab the cooler? Might have been fitted for AUDM cars or maybe late E revision got it?

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#20 TSG

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Posted 22 December 2015 - 09:23 AM

Plastic header tank on the B4. Yeah possibly, mine is a Rev F. I'm sure an aftermarket one would work well too, we had one fitted to our Prado when it was built for towing. The one on mine is only small.






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