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GenIII wheel alignment


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#21 Dylan

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 12:44 AM

Yes.
One of the few perks of the job ;)


Oh nice! Where's the job at :)

Tell me, what tools do I need to do it myself :) ?

#22 93tzlegacy

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:31 AM

while not a gen 3, if you want your subie to slide, 2deg (atleast, neg camber on front) 1 deg neg camber on rear .5mm toe lh + rh on front. 2mm toe in (each side) on rear. epic skid pan angles.

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#23 RX25SE

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 08:43 AM

Oh nice! Where's the job at :)

Tell me, what tools do I need to do it myself :) ?

Im an Automotive Studies teacher at a Melb TAFE.
As far as tools go, all you need is some basic hand tools and a $20k wheel align machine. :D


while not a gen 3, if you want your subie to slide,
2deg (atleast, neg camber on front)
1 deg neg camber on rear
.5mm toe lh + rh on front.
2mm toe in (each side) on rear.
epic skid pan angles.

Haha...Thanks for the tip Ben but Id rather not.
Its the wifes car!!

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#24 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 01:20 PM

Im an Automotive Studies teacher at a Melb TAFE.
As far as tools go, all you need is some basic hand tools and a $20k wheel align machine. :D



slightly off topic but i've heard of people using tape measures and markings on he floor to do a wheel alignment....

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#25 Dylan

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 01:33 PM

As far as tools go, all you need is some basic hand tools and a $20k wheel align machine. :D


Check... and ohhhhhhhhhhh... :(

Hahaha good stuff mate!

#26 SUBARU

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 03:16 PM

My 2cents on the Billes Jas - Not standard on the B4. They are standard on the GT and the RSK only. Both wagon and sedan struts will fit into the RX. Make s aworld of diference in the handling department. It's worthy to note that if you onstall these that they will actually raise the ride height of your car a bit. To compensate this, S-Techs are the way to go, they are designed specifically for them and shouldn't lower the car as much as you see in the photos on the previous page.

#27 buzzda

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 03:58 PM

My 2cents on the Billes Jas - Not standard on the B4.


On the AUDM B4 they are.

Or is it just rev D & E?

#28 RX25SE

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 04:39 PM

Thanks for the tip Chris. Not sure how far I want to go with it yet. Like I said, it's the wifes car and I only drive it infrequently. :( At this stage I think I'll make small simple changes and see where I end up.

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#29 buzzda

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 03:56 PM

Just got the car back with roll red./bump steer kit and ALK. New W/A settings are: Front - Camber L 2.05 R 2.59, 2mm total toe in. ALK has increased caster to +4.0 deg Rear - Camber 2.0 deg, 2mm total toe in. 1st impressions: + steering feels a bit heavier and has more "feel" which compared to std is great. - seems a bit reluctant to re-centre itself after a sharp turn. Overall, it's awesome! has made a HUGE diff to handling, also feels alot better when accelerating and braking.

#30 Delete This Account

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:16 PM

I think i need an ALK, mine seems to lift a lot on take off

#31 buzzda

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:25 PM

does lift a bit eh... http://www.whiteline...t_number=KCA361 needs moar lowness :P

#32 Delete This Account

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:27 PM

Needs moar lowness :P


Needs less dent :P

#33 buzzda

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:28 PM

haha that too!

#34 RX25SE

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 11:33 PM

Just got the car back with roll red./bump steer kit and ALK.

New W/A settings are: Front - Camber L 2.05 R 2.59, 2mm total toe in. ALK has increased caster to +4.0 deg
Rear - Camber 2.0 deg, 2mm total toe in.

1st impressions: + steering feels a bit heavier and has more "feel" which compared to std is great.
- seems a bit reluctant to re-centre itself after a sharp turn.

Overall, it's awesome! has made a HUGE diff to handling, also feels alot better when accelerating and braking.

Good stuff.

I assume you mean -2.05 and -2.59 Buzz.
Thats a fair bit of neg camber, is it a daily drive? Should hang on better in the corners!
How did you get that much camber on the rear, camber bolts? Mine has no adjustment and the cambers from memory were only just over 1 degree.

The reason it feels heavier is the increase in caster but it should feel a bit more planted on the freeway.

One question. Does it turn in quicker?

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#35 buzzda

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 11:53 PM

Yeah neg camber, rear camber is result of lowering, it's the family car so yeah daily drive. haven't had chance yet to take for good drive (just a quick test run up some twisties) but does turn in quicker with less understeer... and it had bugger all.

#36 RX25SE

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 12:10 AM

Oh...I forgot you lowered it. I wish I had less understeer! Im looking for a 17mm B4 rear bar to help with that.

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#37 buzzda

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 08:50 AM

Im looking for a 17mm B4 rear bar to help with that.


I've got both fr & r std bars (fr is 20mm) both have new urethane mount bushes.

$50 (both) plus post sound fair?

#38 RX25SE

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 10:28 AM

Mmmmmmm...........not a bad deal Buzz. Where are you? Wondering how much postage would be. I have the std 21mm front bar on it now. I was going to try the 17mm rear and see how it goes. I wonder if I'll need to soften the front as well? What size bars did you put on? Cheers

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#39 buzzda

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 11:44 AM

I put W/line 22 fr & 20 r (both adj. & set on hard) on. you can have just the rear if thats all you want ($25)... didn't realise the RX had such a large std fr s/bar (the B4's only 20mm std) spose they're compensating for heavier eng? Postcode here is 2480. Softening front could have + impact on understeer... I'd prob stick to the harder one tho but then again I like everything hard! LOL.

#40 RX25SE

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 12:35 PM

Fatter front and thinner rear makes for understeer. Usually designed into a std car as it is safer for the average muppet when it all goes pear shaped. I'd say the B4 was designed to be a bit more neutral in its handling compared to the RX, hence fatter rear and thinner front. Rough rule is, stiffer will slide and softer will grip. Take a look under the back of a drift car. Usually has a rear bar as thick as your arm! 2480....is that any where near Silverdale/The Oaks or Kellyville? Ive got friends there. I might as well grab both. What would you do with a 20mm fr bar anyway???? I think postage may be a pain due to the irregular shape. Sorry to ask, but could you get a quote on postage to 3133? :) I dont have any bars off the cars I could take to the post office. :(

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