547 replies to this topic

[Shaz]

Gents,

I will be shortly undertaking a refurbish of my car, with a 99-00-01 STI HalfCut. I've thought of the basics of what i'm going to need, but its going to be all the nitty gritty things which i'm sure will hold up the conversion. My plan is to have it done in a weekend, so here goes. From a quick list i've conjured in my head, initial thoughts i'm going to need at least the folowing.

Engine
Gearbox
Tailshaft (Not sure what type yet? Possibly uutilise old one?)
Rear Diff (STI gearbox has different ratios to my standard auto diff)
Driveshafts (Maybe the same as current? Not sure)
ECU
New Fuel Pump (+ Fuel Pressure Reg?)
Exhaust (Probably gunna go turbo bvack straight up, so its easier to install the dump pipe)
Cooler (Standard Top Mount will suffice, already have a hole in the bonnet)

Is there anything else that comes to mind from any of you who have either had expereince doing this conversion, or have done something similar?

Cheers,
Shazza

[XXB4XX]

Heya,

Don't want to burst any bubbles, but what you're going to be taking on will hit many up's and downs before it works right.. (hope it all goes well though).

Salvage as much as you can off the front cut to replace on your liberty as in drive shafts etc..

I think you have most of it covered in your list, but wiring it all up might be a pain also..

Check with Dylan, he did a very similar conversion about 2 years ago.. last time I checked it's still not working properly LOL.

[acres]

Most of that comes with the halfcut - depending on how much you spend on one. No need for pressure regulator at first. Big thing is repinning the harness to suit. Also be prepared to do a major service on the cut ie. Clutch, water pump, possibly belts and major seals.

[Shaz]

Yeah, whilst the engine is out, it will be getting fresh head gaskets, studs, water pump, all gaskets and filters + clutch

I've done a 1GGTE auto -> 5spd 1JZ in a weekend, in my driveway, so i know whats involved roughly. Wiring isn't an issue, have a subaru veteran who knows about the wiring, so we will make sure thats covered.
We have a fully equipped subaru workshop to do it in, i just want to get as many of the parts together at once, so i can just push it out, hopefully in a weekend.

[acres]

Cool. Sounds like you have your head screwed on right when it comes to this.
You will also need sti shafts to suit the rear diff - if you use an sti cut that is - as they are different to non sti items

[Shaz]

Cool. Sounds like you have your head screwed on right when it comes to this.
You will also need sti shafts to suit the rear diff - if you use an sti cut that is - as they are different to non sti items

Awesome, thanks mate. Sti rear shafts different to Lib ones? I'll make sure i get that included with the rear diff when i order.

Also, does anyone know if 01 WRX pedals will fit? I know the clutch master cylinder can be made to fit, but am i going to have to source some manual Lib/Outback pedals, or will the ones that come with the WRX halfcut suffice?

Cheers,
Shazza

[fatcat67]

The whole rear end is different from '01 STI to Gen3.
It is definately better to do an '01+ conversion into the Gen3.
Just use as much of the front cut as you can. An STI would be the go as you'd get 6 speed and Brembo's as well as a host of other goodies.

[Shaz]

The whole rear end is different from '01 STI to Gen3.
It is definately better to do an '01+ conversion into the Gen3.
Just use as much of the front cut as you can. An STI would be the go as you'd get 6 speed and Brembo's as well as a host of other goodies.

Yeah, i figured as much. I have my eye on a V3 STi half cut on eBay at the moment, but the only thing that worries me is that it is "Unknown KMs". I'll be replacing all the belts, gaskets and everything anyway, but yeah. Bit worrying.

I've been in contact with them, and they said they can run it for me prior to purchasing as well as a carbon monoxide test for the radiator to check for head gasket problems. They also said they have a STi rear diff and rear driveshafts available at a small extra cost, so that seems the way to do.

Tell me, what tailshaft will fit? Will the standard Gen 3 one bolt upto the manual box/sti rear diff, or is it going to have to be a custom job?

Cheers,
Shazza

[acres]

You can use gen 3 tailshaft. Auto shaft for 6 speed, manual shaft for 5 speed. You will probably need to change the flange on the new rear diff to suit if you use a gen 3 shaft but that's no big deal

[Shaz]

You can use gen 3 tailshaft. Auto shaft for 6 speed, manual shaft for 5 speed. You will probably need to change the flange on the new rear diff to suit if you use a gen 3 shaft but that's no big deal

Awesome. The flange isn't an issue, i'm fairly certain my mate has a few laying around.

Haha, flange..

[Alex]

Haha, flange..

quoted for the flange.

[Start]

would this be the V3 sti from Ichiban?

They have had it there for a few months, I had a look at it but decided to go with the V5 rex they had there instead.

They will start it up & run test for you etc, and they are definitely a reputable company.

Ben is usually there and he knows his Subaru's so any questions just ask him.

You should get all the parts needed with the front cut - just a matter of getting the loom spliced, and you will need the rear diff assembly (pretty sure they are 4.44 same as mine).

If you can spare the $1000 bux id just rip it out and sent it to AMAuto much less headache.

They did my loom with an Integrated autowatch alarm, and it plugged straight in(everything factory still works.

[Shaz]

would this be the V3 sti from Ichiban?

They have had it there for a few months, I had a look at it but decided to go with the V5 rex they had there instead.

They will start it up & run test for you etc, and they are definitely a reputable company.

Ben is usually there and he knows his Subaru's so any questions just ask him.

You should get all the parts needed with the front cut - just a matter of getting the loom spliced, and you will need the rear diff assembly (pretty sure they are 4.44 same as mine).

If you can spare the $1000 bux id just rip it out and sent it to AMAuto much less headache.

They did my loom with an Integrated autowatch alarm, and it plugged straight in(everything factory still works.

Yeah, its the one from ichiban. I've purchased HalfCuts off them before, and never had a "hardware" problem with them.
I was asking him the other day, and yeah, you get most of the stuff in the halfcut, plus he mentioned that i could purchase the rear diff assembly seperate, along with the driveshafts. The loom splice is no problem, i can do that, and get it all to work myself. Hell, if i can get a 1JZ to work in a 89 Soarer, with a generic WOLF3D loom, it can't be that hard. =) I've heard AMAuto is pretty good when it comes to the Wire Loom. $1000 for the plug in loom huh? Many people on here used them?

[Start]

Yeah, its the one from ichiban. I've purchased HalfCuts off them before, and never had a "hardware" problem with them.
I was asking him the other day, and yeah, you get most of the stuff in the halfcut, plus he mentioned that i could purchase the rear diff assembly seperate, along with the driveshafts. The loom splice is no problem, i can do that, and get it all to work myself. Hell, if i can get a 1JZ VVTI to work in a 89 Soarer, with a generic WOLF3D loom, it can't be that hard. =) I've heard AMAuto is pretty good when it comes to the Wire Loom. $1000 for the plug in loom huh? Many people on here used them?

Its not a plug in loom - I sent both my looms there and they spliced them for me - if you can do it yourself thats awesome!..

Good luck man, sounds like you know what your doing =].

[Shaz]

Its not a plug in loom - I sent both my looms there and they spliced them for me - if you can do it yourself thats awesome!..

Good luck man, sounds like you know what your doing =].

Yeah, from what i can see, there is 2 plugs which go from the ECU to the engine loom. Because the Subarus are designed for the engine to be lifted out of the car when doing work, they've gone to the effort of making the engine loom seperate to the body loom. So, theoretically speaking, i should just be able to lift out the dud engine, and bolt the STi engine in, plug the ECU in and it should fire. Then, i just need to go an splice the body loom into certain pins on the ECU, for Fuel Gauge, Temperature etc. Most of the cam sensors are the same, as with the CAS.

Does anyone have the Pin diagrams for the STi engine and the pin diagrams for the standard Lib ecu? I think this should help me as i can generally mate them up. For instance, pin 13 on the STi ecu, may be the CAS whereas pin 13 on the lib may be for central locking, so its may be just a matter of matching them up, and chucking a bit of solder on them.

Also, i can confirm that a manual tailshaft from the GEN3 will bolt upto a 5speed box/rear diff, with just a change of yolk, for anyone interested.

[alexGT]

GD WRX cuts are 10000000000000000x better in the way of features. you get AVCS for starters! ecu is also reflashable, which means any mods can be retuned via romraider (opensource).

GD gearboxes are stronger, will have less km on them, tmic is a much much much better design than the GC coolers, 01 sti will have 6spd, 01 sti will have forged motor with one of the best flowing cylinder heads on any subaru from standard. there is a huge list of advantages from the GD cut.

[Shaz]

GD WRX cuts are 10000000000000000x better in the way of features. you get AVCS for starters! ecu is also reflashable, which means any mods can be retuned via romraider (opensource).

GD gearboxes are stronger, will have less km on them, tmic is a much much much better design than the GC coolers, 01 sti will have 6spd, 01 sti will have forged motor with one of the best flowing cylinder heads on any subaru from standard. there is a huge list of advantages from the GD cut.

Whilst the GD may be better in terms of upgrades from the GC, I just can't justify the price difference between the 2. I mean, your basically paying an additional $1-$2k for variable intake, which the whole design in itself creates, for my purpose anyway, just more shit to go wrong. If I was looking at strapping a GT35R to the side, then the GD would be the way to go, but all the additional wiring and technology would just make the conversion too expensive and I'm not looking to run 10's.

In further news, I'm having trouble sourcing a good condition STi half cut. Anyone know of any going?

Cheers,
Shazza

[alexGT]

Whilst the GD may be better in terms of upgrades from the GC, I just can't justify the price difference between the 2. I mean, your basically paying an additional $1-$2k for variable intake, which the whole design in itself creates, for my purpose anyway, just more shit to go wrong. If I was looking at strapping a GT35R to the side, then the GD would be the way to go, but all the additional wiring and technology would just make the conversion too expensive and I'm not looking to run 10's.

In further news, I'm having trouble sourcing a good condition STi half cut. Anyone know of any going?

Cheers,
Shazza

AVCS is highly reliable in subarus. I've never heard of ANY failing, you need to experience it to be able to tell the difference... $1-$2k for more power, stronger gearbox, avcs, newer turbo, bigger top mount, TUNABLE ECU, stronger motor. i've had my fair share of experience in turbo subaru's and if there difference is $1-2k you'd be nuts to knock it back. btw, a GT35 is pointless on a 2litre if you want boost before 4500rpm!

a GD sti cut with TBE will net you 180-190kw atw. a GC sti cut will net you 160-170. and let me tell you there is a big difference in those figures

[Alex]

i lol'd at topmount.

subarus are very different to wiring than a dingy old 'yota.

Send looms to Al.
Drink beer.
Al sends one loom back.
Plug in loom.
Start car.
Drink beer.

[Shaz]

AVCS is highly reliable in subarus. I've never heard of ANY failing, you need to experience it to be able to tell the difference... $1-$2k for more power, stronger gearbox, avcs, newer turbo, bigger top mount, TUNABLE ECU, stronger motor. i've had my fair share of experience in turbo subaru's and if there difference is $1-2k you'd be nuts to knock it back. btw, a GT35 is pointless on a 2litre if you want boost before 4500rpm!

a GD sti cut with TBE will net you 180-190kw atw. a GC sti cut will net you 160-170. and let me tell you there is a big difference in those figures

Yeah, whilst you maybe right on those points ( I'm still learning with the subies) it still comes down to cost. As much as I would like the later model, I just cant justify the cost for my application. I'm not saying it wouldn't be epic though.

And btw, I was just kidding about the GT35R. I had one on my 1J at one stage,, and it didn't hit full boost till 4200. Good fun past that though.

Cheers,
Shazza