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#1 LIBBY_B4

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Posted 19 February 2011 - 04:15 PM

Just want to know what oil people are putting in there b4.

Should it be fully synthetic???

This has prob been spoken about but can't find it.

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#2 Shaz

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Posted 19 February 2011 - 05:10 PM

I've heard good things about Royal Purple.

My STi engine had Royal Purple in it when I got it, and I will prob continue to use it.

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#3 buzzda

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Posted 19 February 2011 - 05:59 PM

Yeah, full synth. I didn't mind the Nulon stuff This one. If you can get it, the best I had was Castrol magnatec professional 5w40 (can't buy it retail tho, only comes in 20lt and 44gal). I found 5w40 better than 5w30 in my B4. Here's the thread on oils Clickety click

#4 Trent

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 12:10 PM

I've read a bit that full synthetic in a suby engine causes bore glazing. Apparently a semi synth is the go.

#5 acres

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 12:25 PM

I've always used mobil 1 5w30 with no complaints. Car runs smooth and quiet at both cold starts and when hot. No oil coking in the turbo lines as far as I can tell and never gets that sludgy build up from breaking down to quickly.

#6 RX25SE

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 12:40 PM

I've always used Mobil Oil and find it excellent. I run semi syn in the n/a.


Whatever you use, the key to a long and happy engine life (a long as a B4 would live anyway :) ) is regular oil changes. Every 5000km for me.

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#7 alexGT

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 01:08 PM

10w60 castrol edge here. its the shiznit.

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#8 camoshop

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 01:30 PM

10w60 castrol edge here. its the shiznit.

how much is that for 5 ltrs ???

I've always used Mobil Oil and find it excellent. I run semi syn in the n/a.


Whatever you use, the key to a long and happy engine life (a long as a B4 would live anyway :) ) is regular oil changes. Every 5000km for me.

i do my every 5k i use magnatec 10w40 mines due to be done haha im 500km over :P

#9 XXB4XX

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 02:59 PM

Depending on the amount of k's you have, in the summer heat use castrol edge 10w-40, if you have high k's I'd stick with the same in winter too..

I tried them all, and currently using motul 4000, you can't beat castrol edge or Mobil 1 synthetic.

Royal purple was my least favourite and was instantly chewed by the B4.

#10 alexGT

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 03:06 PM

30w and full syn = glaze bores. its been shown time and time again its too thin for suby turbo motors. 40w is fine for an all rounder oil.

edge 10w60 is $50-70 a bottle depending on where/when you get it.

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#11 TSG

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 12:16 PM

Everywhere I look there is a different recommendation for the EJ Turbo motor. Some say thicker is better for Subaru motors, reduces the wear and risk of a glazed bore/big end bearing. The manual mentions 30-60 I believe. Others say the thicker stuff gave them problems, harder to start etc. I changed mine when I bought the car - the Repco bloke handed me Castrol Edge 5w30 when told him what it was. Its running ok since the change (about 800k now) hasn't burnt much at all, and the oil is still 'clean', barely changed color since I put it in. The main thing I find is that on a cold start I can 'feel' the motors movement in the car as the revs sit at 1000-1500 while it warms up, once its been driven it will fall to ~500 on idle and is nice and smooth. Maybe this is just because its a Boxer and I am used to V6/I4.

However I don't hammer the car, I drive 'enthusiastically' but that's unavoidable, the thing takes off like a rocketship compared to anything I have driven. Might give the Castrol Edge 10w60 a go next time round. I am on a budget, but of course don't want to damage the motor. I mostly stick to Castrol cause its easier to get, my dad swears by Valvoline in his cars though. I could go back to trusty 10w40.. which I ran in my Civic. I have seen w60 mentioned around here and ozLiberty a lot. I wont be draining it just yet, but now thanks to this thread I won't be driving hard on it, at least the weather is cooler now.

#12 alexGT

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 12:24 PM

Everywhere I look there is a different recommendation for the EJ Turbo motor. Some say thicker is better for Subaru motors, reduces the wear and risk of a glazed bore/big end bearing. The manual mentions 30-60 I believe. Others say the thicker stuff gave them problems, harder to start etc. I changed mine when I bought the car - the Repco bloke handed me Castrol Edge 5w30 when told him what it was. Its running ok since the change (about 800k now) hasn't burnt much at all, and the oil is still 'clean', barely changed color since I put it in. The main thing I find is that on a cold start I can 'feel' the motors movement in the car as the revs sit at 1000-1500 while it warms up, once its been driven it will fall to ~500 on idle and is nice and smooth. Maybe this is just because its a Boxer and I am used to V6/I4.

However I don't hammer the car, I drive 'enthusiastically' but that's unavoidable, the thing takes off like a rocketship compared to anything I have driven. Might give the Castrol Edge 10w60 a go next time round. I am on a budget, but of course don't want to damage the motor. I mostly stick to Castrol cause its easier to get, my dad swears by Valvoline in his cars though. I could go back to trusty 10w40.. which I ran in my Civic. I have seen w60 mentioned around here and ozLiberty a lot. I wont be draining it just yet, but now thanks to this thread I won't be driving hard on it, at least the weather is cooler now.


no change in colour is a BAD THING. oil doesn't just lubricate your motor it CLEANS it. i would be very concerned if my oil was still clean!

edge 10w60 is a great oil, i have used it for at least 5 changes now and am very happy with it.

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#13 TSG

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 12:32 PM

Haha, well its changed a bit, but its not a drastic change? This is what I was taught by the old man anyway. Like I said its only been 800k and I have really just cruised around a bit, nothing major. We've never owned a Turbo car - no one I know has, its a first so the only source of info I have is these forums.

I ran my Civic on the Magnatec and it never missed a beat.

#14 Soop

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 01:08 PM

I use Castrol edge 10-60 in my gen3, very very good oil.

I'm not sure why people think synthetic oil will cause bores to glaze. That doesn't make much sense.
TSM

#15 alexGT

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 02:38 PM

I use Castrol edge 10-60 in my gen3, very very good oil.

I'm not sure why people think synthetic oil will cause bores to glaze. That doesn't make much sense.


it does i've seen it happen. thin full syn oil on turbo ej's seem to be a bad combo.

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#16 Soop

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 02:52 PM

Why?
I'm inclined to believe there are other factors involved in the bores glazing the just the wrong oil.

The thing with Synthetic oil (good synthetic) is that while its thin, the the film tension is twice as strong. So basically if you have a 2mm of mineral oil and 1mm of synthetic spread over X area, the synthetic oil will have the same ability to create a barrier.
TSM

#17 Scott

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 04:13 PM

ive always ran motul 8100 5w 40 full synth in all my turbo cars, v7 sti lib and the bug sti


since running it in the 06 sti ive noticed it throughout my intercooler, the oil is too thin for the rings they put in subaru motors these days

i now run mobil delvac mx 15w 40 with no trace of oil at all and it runs perfect

#18 alexGT

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 04:53 PM

ive always ran motul 8100 5w 40 full synth in all my turbo cars, v7 sti lib and the bug sti


since running it in the 06 sti ive noticed it throughout my intercooler, the oil is too thin for the rings they put in subaru motors these days

i now run mobil delvac mx 15w 40 with no trace of oil at all and it runs perfect


i'll be pulling my cooler off next weekend to check for oil, if there going to grab myself a AOS!

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#19 Scott

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 04:55 PM

ive also been thinking about the AOS's

everyone with them talk them up, so they must be good

#20 alexGT

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 06:32 PM

ive also been thinking about the AOS's

everyone with them talk them up, so they must be good


its basically a smarter catch can that requires not maintenance, freakin smart idea :)

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