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#21 Soop

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 08:17 PM

How do they differ from any other catch can?

Mine has a filter and returns clean air to the motor. I wouldn't want to put the oil in a catch can back in the sump.
TSM

#22 Scott

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 08:38 PM

How do they differ from any other catch can?

Mine has a filter and returns clean air to the motor. I wouldn't want to put the oil in a catch can back in the sump.



it returns the oil back to the motor so it does exactly what a stock car without a catchcan, but it keeps the intake/ intercooler clean from oil

-so it keeps oil out of intake like a catchcan
-you dont need to empty a catchcan
-it puts the oil back in the motor so you dont loose a heap of oil

i dont see whats wrong with it except for the $300 they want

why wouldnt you put the oil back in your motor, whats wrong with it?

#23 Soop

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 11:46 PM

Yeah see no.
You don't want that oil going back into the motor. It picks up all sorts of contaminants like petrol and soot. You tip that stuff on ant hills, not back into the motor.

If you're getting enough oil in a catch can to worry you, you've bigger issues then replacing oil.
If the Catch can has filled up after a track day, you should replace the oil anyway.

I ended up with 400ml of oil in a catch can after a day of hard driving (Very very hard driving, very little time under 4000rpm) With a gen3, I poored it out into a white ice cream container and you could see that it had discoloured and had small traces of contaminants like soot in it (gritty feeling), you could also smell the petrol.
Petrol in the oil will wash the bores behind the piston, which is a great way to grab a piston and stick the rod through the block.

I replaced the oil after that, and with no more hard driving for around 5000km the catch can had a dribble in the bottom.
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#24 TSG

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 01:45 AM

I got bored so I did some research on the popular oil brand homepages, the ones with useful database information anyway. This in no way reflects peoples personal experience, just what the databases recommend, I had to substitute 2.0T WRX/GT for a couple - figured they'd be close just without the twins.

Castrol - Edge Sport 5w30 or 0w40 (wrx), Edge Sport 5w30 or Magnatec 10w40 or Modern Engine 10w30 (gt)
Mobil 1 - Extended Performance 10w30 or 5w30 (wrx and gt)
Shell Helix - Ultra 5w40 (B4)
Valvoline - SynPower 5w40 or 10w50 (wrx), Pro Series 10w30 or Engine Armour 10w30 or Durablend 10w30 (gt)
Penrite - HPR5 5w40 or Everyday 10w40 (wrx and gt)
Red Line - 10w40 (B4)

Soo... that was interesting :dash2:

#25 Scott

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 10:33 AM

Soop- yeah fair enough, that makes sense thanks for that
Might grab a catch can instead even tho I don't get much blow by with the new oil

#26 soo-bah-roo

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 11:06 AM

fully synthetic, castrol 5w-30 is what i use, also there is no difference in thickness from 5w-30 to a 5w-40. the second number is how well it preforms under heat, ie. a 5w-30 loose its viscosity quicker then a 5w-40

#27 Guest_Jesse_*

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 11:09 AM

Welcome to Subyclub mate, throw up an intro :)

#28 buzzda

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 12:20 PM

also there is no difference in thickness from 5w-30 to a 5w-40. the second number is how well it preforms under heat, ie. a 5w-30 loose its viscosity quicker then a 5w-40

That's wrong mate, 2nd number is how thick it is at 100 deg C. READ THIS

#29 XXB4XX

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 01:13 PM

easy guys.. use this and you can't go wrong.

Summer time - 10-60
Winter time - 5-30

older engine?

Summer - 10-60
Winter - 10-60

The end.

Castrol Edge, best bang for buck.. i'm using Motul 4000 in the GT and it's been excellent also.

#30 Soop

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 04:02 PM

Unless you're talking 202's there isn't any reason to change oil's for winter in Australia. Not unless you live in the snow fields and even then its seldom cold enough to worry modern oils.

I use 10-60 all year round.
Castrol edge is hard to beat. If you like to beat off over expensive dockets, Royal purple. But in an EJ motor, using Royal purple is kinda like buy diamonds for Rosey O'donnel.
(Not having a dig, But EJ motors are very agricultural.)
TSM

#31 Shaz

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 10:12 PM

Good ole Shell Helix 10-30 for the STi motor. Loves it.

No fancy ****, just the basics.

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I put up with people from amnesty, red cross and now the cancer council almost daily hounding me!! Throw in the greens, green peace, unhcr, save the forking children and I've well and truly hit my limit for the number of fuckstains wanting me to sign something or give money. Seriously cubts,  :fork: right off.
 

 

#32 soo-bah-roo

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 07:14 PM

That's wrong mate, 2nd number is how thick it is at 100 deg C. READ THIS


ahh ok sorry mate, thats just what the castrol rep from work told us

#33 alexGT

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 07:17 PM

ahh ok sorry mate, thats just what the castrol rep from work told us


that's a worry.

MY07 GT spec B

 


#34 TSG

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 02:09 AM

The Edge 5w30 that is in it now, hasn't burnt oil at all, so I am impressed with that anyway. What I am not happy with is on a cold morning, I get light ticking until I am down the road a bit. Wont do it if I start around lunch, its only on cold mornings. Was more after the right weight and a reputable brand, which is the main thing. The Nulon 10w40 seems popular.

#35 justrad

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 09:13 PM

i used castrol 5w-30 on my rx liberty..and there fine. im very happy with the result. Also, how about the oil filter? whats the good oil filter? i wonder whats the code for my rx liberty gen3?.

#36 TSG

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 09:27 PM

Yeah mine runs great on the 5w30 Castrol Edge, as I said its just the ticking noise on a morning cold start that started up when I put it in. I am just upping the grade for summer, I may keep it at 10w40 if I can, seems to be what the B4's like from everything I have read.

We just use the RYCO ones in all our cars, but they all seem the same to me. I know some are bigger than others, some have magnets etc. Z495 I believe.

#37 alexGT

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 09:40 PM

5w30 full syn has been known to glaze the bores on turbo suby's so use at your own risk. this is not hearsay i have seen some photos of pulled down ej20/ej25s.

Z495 ryco filter is fine for any 4cyl suby, genuine is also!

MY07 GT spec B

 


#38 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 10:40 PM

5w30 full syn has been known to glaze the bores on turbo suby's so use at your own risk. this is not hearsay i have seen some photos of pulled down ej20/ej25s.

Z495 ryco filter is fine for any 4cyl suby, genuine is also!


Happened to a mate of mine.

Genuine filters ftw.

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#39 TSG

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 11:05 PM

Yeah so I've heard, thats why its coming out before it warms up too much, we had the coldest winter on record for 11 years or something, its still quite cool now. I heard its the 0w that causes the glazed bores, the true 'full synthetic', pretty stupid to run that kind of oil in Australia anyway.

Where do you come by genuine without a subaru spare parts local? And of course genuine is going to be best :P

#40 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 06 September 2011 - 06:56 AM

You just gotta know the right people ;)

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