26 replies to this topic

[Scuba-Roo]

Im starting my respray in the next few days. Im doing it myself with a spray gun aircompressor etc, the colour is the same colour as current, except i got the guy to put a little extra mettallic in for me
i've had a muck around with the gun yesterday on an old bike frame and i was surprised with the results considiering i did no prep work.

My questions are about the prep work i should do, what i had in mind was grab some sand paper rub what clear is left on the bonnet off then get some 1200wet n dry and tidy up the current paint. im not sure if i should use a primer as im not going all the way back to bare metal, I know i should but i cbf.

My other question is before i apply a clear coat should i cut back and polish the paint then wash it clear it? Or just go the clear straight after?

Here's some pics
This was after 3coats








and this is when i used some 1200 wet and dry to clean it up



And if i can get the clear to shine like that i'll be stoked


and the section above the tail gate to show colour differences















Cheers
Mark

Edited by Scuba-Roo, 02 October 2008 - 09:26 PM.

[Soop]

What sort of paint is it mate? Generally Metalic paints use a clear over base system. Personally I'd be sanding the whole car with 600-800 grit paper. If your doing it by hand (God help you if you are.) 900-1000 and don't sand in straight lines, you'll leave ruts in the finish which the paint will shrink back into. Which will mean in six weeks time, you'll have scratches all through your paint work. Buy some Scotch brite. It's awesome for getting right into swage lines, and wont leave ruts. Once the car is 110% sanded, wash it. Once the car is dry, use some prepsol or another wax and grease remover. Paint wont stick to an oily surface. It's also a good idea to not touch the car with bare skin past this point, as your skin is very oily. Insure you wipe the prepsol on and off. Do not let it dry on the surface, it will leave a residue which will show up. Particularly with a metallic base coat.

[Scuba-Roo]

Thats a good question i never really asked and looking on the print out it doesnt say...ffuuck I'm only gonna do the bonnet first cause its the worst affected by the clear and will hopefully be the easiest. Cheers for that i'll have to grab some wax remover before i start

[Soop]

when you spray the colour. Does it have a gloss? If not its base coat. In which case DO NOT run it with sand paper prior to clear coat. Tac rag it to remove debris and then clear coat it.

[Scuba-Roo]

Surface Effect: Gloss still do the sanding im guessing

[Soop]

No don't sand it unless you leave it for more than 24hrs. If its a Direct gloss then you don't need the clear coat. I'm guessing your using acrylic lacquer. Acrylic mono-metalics are hard to apply. Best of luck.

[Scuba-Roo]

Welll the clear coat is peeling of the bonnet so im gonna have to sand that off? just not the basecoat?

[Soop]

The whole car will have to be sanded thoroughly. Try not to cut through to the metal. The paint is an excellent surface for new paint to adhere to. Remove and paint that is flaked or cracked. Your car was originally painted in a two component acrylic enamel. The paint you have purchased by the sounds of it, is Acrylic lacquer mono-metalic. Which means there is no base/clear coat with it. You cannot sand the clear coat off, and then reapply another coat of clear. You must in this case reapply the base coat. Since you have a Mono-metallic, base and clear are the same thing. Three even medium wet coats will achieve the correct film build. Any more and you risk the paint cracking/failing to adhere. Not enough and it will burn out quickly. As i said, It is quiet hard.

[Scuba-Roo]

Alrighty i'll try practice on somthing, the condition the bonnet is in i cant really make it any worse, cheers for the help i'll let you know how it pans out

[Scuba-Roo]

Done two coats so far didnt seem too bad to apply, i'll post some pics tonight when im finished P.S I'm liking the sparkle it's giving off

[B4TT]

Nice one, I am interested to see the result.

[fatcat67]

Nice one, I am interested to see the result.

Same here. Good to see someone having a go.

[Scuba-Roo]

Thanks guys just gave it a quick wet sand with 1200 to smoothen it off might give it another coat yet not sure, but when the water was on damn it looked good!!! I'm so imprez'd i myself cant wait till its polished and cleared (it looks like it'll need clear coat of some description) Hopefully the pics will come out the same

[Soop]

Did you wet and dry fresh paint? I'm lost as to what your doing exactly.

[Scuba-Roo]

Did you wet and dry fresh paint?

I'm lost as to what your doing exactly.

i did 3coats then was like f**k i should wet n dry it so i did and now im tossing up whether to give it another coat.

i went over it with some cutting back and then polishing and it looks alright, afew marks appears but their hardly noticable.

still needs clear or somthing over the top

[Soop]

Dude. You need to let it cure before cutting it. Not to mention you CAN'T cut a mono-metallic. It will ruin the metallic grain.

[Scuba-Roo]

Okay. I'll see how it goes tomorrow

[Scuba-Roo]

i fixed up the paint for where i f**ked it by cutting it back and tried clear but its such a b*tch to do any advice?

[Soop]

What are you having trouble with?

[Scuba-Roo]

Sparying it, might have to fiddle with my thinners mixture the tin says 1-1.5ish it just doesnt seem to have the shine i was hoping for ahwell another fiddle tomorrow