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#21 Soop

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 06:46 PM

If its acrylic laquer. Go and scotch bright the surface. Then smash another medium wet coat over it. It wont gloss up like 2k. You'll have to buff the hell out of it.
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#22 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 07:14 PM

Yeah its acrylic i didnt think it was wise to use an acrylic base with an enamal clear Cheers soop, Now i know buff the clear coat not the base coat hehehe stupid me ohwell fixed that now

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#23 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 09:27 PM

Pics in first post. Still need to work on the clear

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#24 Soop

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 09:31 PM

See the mottle in the bonnet? The tiger stripe looking bit. If you go over the bonnet again in the opposite direction, it will cover it out. (What i mean is, if you went from left to right the first time, go up and down now.) Other than that it looks good in the pictures. Remember, wet the clear up. Its a flat surface so it shouldn't run. Give the paint 15mins between coats. Three good coats are the go.
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#25 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 09:39 PM

See the mottle in the bonnet?
The tiger stripe looking bit.
If you go over the bonnet again in the opposite direction, it will cover it out. (What i mean is, if you went from left to right the first time, go up and down now.)

Other than that it looks good in the pictures.
Remember, wet the clear up. Its a flat surface so it shouldn't run. Give the paint 15mins between coats. Three good coats are the go.


I was worried about that "mottle" but it dissapaeared after the 1200 wet and dry

Hopefully it'll go to with the clear, if/when i do 1200wet and dry?

Is their anything other then lack of experience/knowledge that makes it occur?

When i go to buff the clear would you recomend using an electric buffer or would it destroy the finish?

Thanks Soop you've been a pretty big help so far :)

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#26 Soop

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 09:44 PM

If you didn't redo the base coat, your bonnet will look like brushed alloy. With clear coat always remember, It never hides anything. It only ever magnifies whats already there. So basicly what you have now, is what your going to have for ever. I would give the paint around 2 days in the sun, then cut it back with 1200 - 1500 - 2000 then with an electric buff (Lambs wool pad) and some Frelis G10, give it a good solid buff. Don't put any weight on the buff, just let it do its job. Don't pick it up on its edge either that will cut ruts into the paint. Don't hold it in one spot to long or you will burn the paint. Be EXTREMELY careful on the edges. Generally you will have less paint there, so you will cut through it very fast. (Particular issue with newbies.)
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#27 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 09:59 PM

Sweet as. I'm on it, thanks soop once again Hopefully this lovely painting weather can hold it

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