38 replies to this topic

[acres]

If you want to keep the pod then just buy one that is a dry type of filter material, such as the apexi one. It shouldn't cause any problems with the MAF then.

[Xon]

Set fire to your pod and reinstall the airbox.

[XXB4XX]

Pod's are fine, just make sure they are NON oiled.

it's the oiled K&N's that cause the issue with the MAF.

To check if you can fix it first, buy a can of contact cleaner or better yet MAF sensor cleaner from repco, and drench the f*** out of it.. let it dry and then re-install

[Murf B4]

When i got it back today he told me i should put the factory air box back on it.
should i do that? next month its going back into the same place for a chip and boost control put on.
Is there anything else i should do to it? and will the air pod be ok when this is done?

yeah dont ever put a ECUTEK tune near your car lol,
mines still running rich as ****, i have changed every sensor in the car ,
6 days till it getts a LINK ecu and a VF23 thou

[Shadoxity]

yeah dont ever put a ECUTEK tune near your car lol,
mines still running rich as ****, i have changed every sensor in the car ,
6 days till it getts a LINK ecu and a VF23 thou

You should count yourself lucky!

I retuned my mates 02 wrx last weekend. It had ecutek and a CAI installed on it.
The tune was so horrible, it was running 12.5afr under full boost and getting lots of knock.

I hate MRT...

Running much better now that i got my hands on it though

[tmh983]

You should count yourself lucky!

I retuned my mates 02 wrx last weekend. It had ecutek and a CAI installed on it.
The tune was so horrible, it was running 12.5afr under full boost and getting lots of knock.

I hate MRT...

Running much better now that i got my hands on it though

what afr did you tune it to? I would have thought that 12.5 would be not too bad, unless the car was running silly boost?
I know some tuners like to tune to a slightly leaner afr and be conservative with the timing map, while others feed in heaps of timing and then quench it with fuel.

[Daniel-B4]

More problems with my car
A chip was installed and I found out that when it flips over to
the 2nd turbo it has a boost leak and then it has a problem with boost.
goes from 8 to 26 and then 12.

the guy working on it atm says it could be a leak anywhere and/or a switch under
or near the intercooler that wont switch right away.
Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?

[TSG]

So the secondary spins up and increases the boost to dangerous levels, then something releases and lowers it to 12? That is what I got from your description anyway. I'll be installing a gauge on mine soon, because I also want to know what is going on boost wise. Someone with experience will respond hopefully, are they going to try and fix it?

[Alex]

Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?

It's called "AIDS"

It comes under the broad umbrella of problems that often plague the Subaru twin turbo system.

It may be a slight leak in a vacuum hose somewhere, it may be a faulty one way valve, or it could even be that the solar system's planets aren't in the correct alignment with the third moon of Jupiter. It may very well be that the Feng Shui under your bonnet is not allowing all the bad JuJu to leave.

There is a cure for the AIDS, despite popular belief, however: Single Turbo Conversion. Please consider it.

In the meantime: What chip did you have installed? And it sounds like some sort of waste gate actuator problem. 26psi?? Don't do that too often, or else you'll throw a rod through the block.

[tmh983]

make sure the boost control solenoid is hooked up properly. I'm surprised it doesn't boost cut when it spikes, mine cuts at about 18psi

[fatcat67]

More problems with my car
A chip was installed and I found out that when it flips over to
the 2nd turbo it has a boost leak and then it has a problem with boost.
goes from 8 to 26 and then 12.

the guy working on it atm says it could be a leak anywhere and/or a switch under
or near the intercooler that wont switch right away.
Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?

You'll spend heaps for Bill and Kel to find the problem. They are one of the best workshops around and charge accordingly.
It sounds like the actuator for the ECV is sticking or not operating properly. This may be a vac line to the actuator and black box or the ECV is locking up and then opening up when the actuator can get enough force up to push the ECV open.
26psi on the primary is a recipie for a blow-up, in which case a single turbo conversion is the way to go only because the turbos are hard to get and expensive. Although, that said, I think I saw some on Kando Dynamic's ebay site.
I have personally dealt with Bill and Kel (CNJ) as they converted my old B4 to a 2.5STI single conversion. It went very well. Great street setup and did a bit of track work as well.
I have since sold the car and it is still going as strong today as when they first built it for me. It now belongs to forum member Buddylove and is for sale.
You get what you pay for and they generally do great work.

[TSG]

There is a cure for the AIDS, despite popular belief, however: Single Turbo Conversion. Please consider it.

I have another plan for AIDS, I call it the sell and move on. When the car gives me trouble in relation to the turbo system, I'll be selling or trading it in, passing the problem onto a dealer or the keen bloke that buys it. By that point I should be able to afford the Gen4 I want however mine runs great at the moment.

I've seen DanielB4's car and its quite tidy, if CNJ can figure it out (without major work) that'd be great news.

[Daniel-B4]

All fixed! get it back tomorrow..
All the problem this time was a dirty solenoid

[Murf B4]

CAI in the front gaurd , be ok i reckon, i have a spare MAF from my b4 and i dont use one any more, i have a stock airbox too if u need one

[Murf B4]

mate i had the same problem , it was supercharged pressure relief valve 2 which controlls the little air by pass valve on the secondary turbo. car was hitting boost cut and carrying on , i have 2 spare solenoid boxes if u need some spares , as i deleted a turbo from my car,
i changed checked every sensor on my b4 , and generally speaking its going to be in that solenoid box if any thing goes wrong,

i love my B4 , i just hated the bullshit fault finding proccess on the TT ,

i run a full aftermarket ECU and a VF 23 , never been happier ,

[fatcat67]

All fixed! get it back tomorrow..
All the problem this time was a dirty solenoid

Great news.

[TSG]

Nice, does seem to be the most common cause of issues.

[Daniel-B4]

thanks Ryan. will let ya know if i need one.

[Shadoxity]

what afr did you tune it to? I would have thought that 12.5 would be not too bad, unless the car was running silly boost?
I know some tuners like to tune to a slightly leaner afr and be conservative with the timing map, while others feed in heaps of timing and then quench it with fuel.

Tuned it closer to 11.3-11.5

As it goes, 12's are best for power but more prone to knocking. And mrt's scaling was so far off they were targeting 9's but getting 12-13... was horrible.