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Another build story

RX25SE's Photo RX25SE 04 Mar 2012

Pulls like a freight train I'll bet.

Nice one.
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 05 Mar 2012

Pulls like a freight train I'll bet.

Nice one.


Yeah it does! I don't think I need much more for street duties hehe- different story for the track, strip, ect.. though ;-)

cheers
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 31 Mar 2012

Hi all wish I had some vids of skids ect.. as an update, although I do have a big update only it's not a good one. Iv'e had to wait till I had some real facts before I was able to reveal what's happened to the car recently.
As it's involved my solicitor and an engineer over the last month. I did contact a few guys on here in the know to help me also with this.

So on feb 25 noon which was a nice sunny day, I had to pic up my son for gymnastics. so I warmed up the car drove of and about two blocks away from home I came up to a rounder bout. So from 3rd gear at about 50kph dropped down to 2nd entering the round about turning right. And I heard several loud clunks which I thought might of been a drive shaft clutch ect..
The engine check light then came on so I then just rolled through the rounder bout instead of turning right.

I came to a stop and got out of the car to see smoke coming out of the drives side guard so I lifted the bonnet to find a lot of oil over the top of the engine and a dirty big hole just behind the alternator.
So at least there was minimal oil on the ground. At this stage it's still in the hands of my solicitor so I won't say to much only that chasers and top torque have been cleared of any fault by my engineer Andrew Enkelman who has had 46 years of engineering experience, 40 years of which were in a professional capacity. So I only had him finally assess the engine 2pm tuesday as this guy is very busy and hard to get hold off and his report will be sent to my solicitor next week. This took place at top torque with me present and his verdict after about an hour or so was a manufacturer flaw of rod number two that caused it to slowly crack and finally breaking.

Which he said intern caused all the rest of the damage and was 100% sure that this is what happened. Which is good to know and worth the money spent to get a more professional opinion as top torque thought the engine had hydrauliced but found no signs of any type of fluid in the bores or damage to the gaskets to support this theory along with other possible theories thrown around like injectors stuck open, failed fuel reg, ecu fault ect..ect..

So my biggest fear was it happening again with the next new motor if we couldn't pin point the reason.
Below are pics of the aftermath It's not a pretty sight so if you've got a weak stomach I'd turn away now ;)

Hole in the block
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Close up
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From the top looks ok.
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Other half of block is fine
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Billet crank Iv'e been told looks to be ok. Will still need to get it's alignment checked as well as for cracks
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All pistons are fugged except for number 3 and one broken rod and the rest of the rods are bent although one almost looks like its ok
and number 2 piston slightly kissed the valves as that's the one that the rod broke, not to much of a problem thank god.

Piston 1
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Piston2
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Piston 3 is fine and the rod is still on the crank and looks the best of the rods.
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Piston 4
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Here's the cylinder head were piston 2 kissed two valves and the other head is fine.
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So I got the car back last thur minus engine from chasers and will give the engine bay a good clean and will begin a huge weight reduction program whilst there's no engine as it may take a few months to sort that out. At least the set up while it was running was spot on in terms of combo which gave me zero lag and bucket loads of of boost torque and still retained great top end. Next engine I'll definitely be going M&W CDI, closed deck 2.5 block hopefully with my manley crank if all is good!. More comp say 9 plus and most likely no sleeves as I'll be happy with around the 260 to 270 at the wheels going by how the 240kw felt.

Bits Iv'e salvaged from the engine are my arp custom age 625 plus head studs the hyperflow sump the cosworth oil pump gates racing belt. Also all the engine timing belt tensioner pulleys are all new so I'll use them again as well as the new water pump and my ati super damper is all good also. I will be selling my ID 2000's and buying some ID1000's as mid 200kw will be fine with loads of torque.

cheers wayne
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simon's Photo simon 31 Mar 2012

aww shiiiiittttt....... :negative: that sucks wayne. Hope it all works out for you mate.
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Adam's Photo Adam 31 Mar 2012

Shit!

Glad it's getting sorted, hope all goes smoothly!
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Ren-dog's Photo Ren-dog 31 Mar 2012

Holy shit man... Hope it all goes well!
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RX25SE's Photo RX25SE 31 Mar 2012

Shit with a capital S.
WTF is with fat shot peened rods failing like that? I know they were new but were they crack tested?

So the top end is OK? Looking at piston 2 I am suprised that the inlets are't bent.
How the hell did the other rods bend like that? I can't see how any busted bits of engine would cause that as there is little that I can see on pistons.
Im sure it's not the case but they look as if they bent under serious pressure coming down from the piston. ie massive boost.


Top Torque in Nunawading Melb?
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 31 Mar 2012

Shit with a capital S.
WTF is with fat shot peened rods failing like that? I know they were new but were they crack tested?

So the top end is OK? Looking at piston 2 I am suprised that the inlets are't bent.
How the hell did the other rods bend like that? I can't see how any busted bits of engine would cause that as there is little that I can see on pistons.
Im sure it's not the case but they look as if they bent under serious pressure coming down from the piston. ie massive boost.


Top Torque in Nunawading Melb?


Hi yeah to me seems more like a lock up due to water or fuel and the builder said they found nothing in the bores when they cracked it open. So who knows just don't want it to happen again so I'll attempt to cover my butt on as many possibilities as possible with new engine.

Yeah Top Torque in Nunawading Melb, the failure was in decel going into a rounder bout! so off throttle and not even on boost and my tune was only running 19 odd psi.
Any howz not going to waste to much time or energy trying to get compensated will see what my lawyer thinks when he reads the report. just want to get it running as soon as I can.

PS: thnx for the nice replies every one.

cheers wayne
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RX25SE's Photo RX25SE 31 Mar 2012


Hi yeah to me seems more like a lock up due to water or fuel and the builder said they found nothing in the bores when they cracked it open. So who knows just don't want it to happen again so I'll attempt to cover my butt on as many possibilities as possible with new engine.

Yeah Top Torque in Nunawading Melb, the failure was in decel going into a rounder bout! so off throttle and not even on boost and my tune was only running 19 odd psi.
Any howz not going to waste to much time or energy trying to get compensated will see what my lawyer thinks when he reads the report. just want to get it running as soon as I can.

PS: thnx for the nice replies every one.

cheers wayne


Butt covering is always a good idea.

I believe the new owner of Top Torque is a good bloke.
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 01 Apr 2012

New owner? since when?

cheers
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aekOne's Photo aekOne 01 Apr 2012

ouch! good luck with getting it sorted mate
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RX25SE's Photo RX25SE 01 Apr 2012

New owner? since when?

cheers


Couple of years I believe, its been many since I stopped using them. One of the the employees bougt the business IIRC.
Good thing too.
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 01 Apr 2012

Ah ok sean and garry run things there now.

cheers
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Marv's Photo Marv 04 Apr 2012

Sucks to see, Wayne.

Sure did a number on that block/rods!!
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 25 Oct 2013

Hi all it's been a while since this epic fail but I've been working hard from mid last year after all most selling up everything and letting it drift off into oblivion.

And that's just not in my nature.

 

So I asked my self what's the best way to resurrect this build and avoid possible things happening again So I decided to do as much of the work my self were I can and so far I have! which allows me to know more at what is going on. Saving money this time around is also a positive thing well the wifie thinks so haha.

So the big question was to keep it on the road or not and I decided that going a dedicated hill climber from hell would be the go and allow me to run any engine plat form I could fit into the beast and bang for buck a stock EG33 big block would mean even in n/a form in the little liberty with E85 would still be a lot to handle for starters.

 

Oh and these engines are fairly cheap now days which is what I'm thinking in the long term as most engines let go in race trim sooner or later and the big six could make some good grunt without stressing it as much as a new 2.5 bottom end would be.

 

So after selling of all my four banger related gear I wouldn't need the H6 build I raked in just under 10k!!

Which means the funds are there to do more or less the whole build without extra out lay and doing the labour my self also is a big help! It'll just be slower getting things done.  

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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 25 Oct 2013

Ok  now to the next chapter of this build story. Lets just say a new beginning and hopefully a happier ending.
 
So here It was.
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And here is everything thrown in the boot a little bit sad seeing the car like this. I'll be working my but off to get things done right. 
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EG33 big block arrives 
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Here is the spar motor which i'll strip down and prep for forgies :cool:
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Here are the two motors safe and sound:)
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Heres the ecu that ran his old motor and it's loom so was working fine when he pulled the motor
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This is the custom sump so will see if it's worth using
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Here's all the tubs with plenty of spares like power steering pumps alternators two svx engine looms ect..
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This is the spare manifold which looks like it's been modified and has bungs to delete some of the holes for factory gear
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And one of the headers which I'll most likely only need the flanges
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I thought I should show the difference in the RS ej20 piston next to the standard cast piston of the eg33 
what I noticed is how much more thicker under the crown of the EG piston is compared to the EJ one
 
This is the EG slug looks like subaru added some strength under the crown
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This is the EJ slug looking a little lighter under the crown
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This is the only other difference is the 2 notches near the gudgin pin area of the EG were the RS is flat, also the EG piston is a bigger  diameter having 2.2 lt bores
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cheers
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 25 Oct 2013

So the build goes on! here's some pics so far.
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Water pump pipe.
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More work hard doing it under my pergola 
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Hi all a little more progress on the build definitely slower when you gota find the time to do most of it your self. 
So I've just finished changing my fuel pump set up a little, as I decided to change my in tank walbro pump which was acting as a lift pump to my surge tank to a low psi hight flow holley hp 125 lift pump which should keep up with the bosch pumps no probs, and I've also been told that low psi pumps are better as lift pumps due to the fact that they wont beat up the fuel to a surge tank like high psi pumps would which can cause cavitation. 
 
Another good thing is I've now got easy access to all three pumps:tu So all I did was to get the braided teflon lines I already had re cut and new fittings added buy the guys at norden and I then did the rest. which meant drilling through the wheel well in a few places to mount the pump and feed my modded teflon line to the factory tank which actually was the hardest thing to do without kinking the fuel line as there was not a lot of room.
 
Also the feed line from the factory tank to the surge tank had to be shortened due to the new lift pump being now in the wheel well and fairly close to the surge tank. I also found a nice little rubber bung to go were the feed line goes through the wheel well to the fuel tank. So it doesn't rub on the metal were it passes through, it also looks a lot neater :rolleyes:
Now since I had to remove the walbro there now was a large gap from the fuel feed tube inside the tank to the bottom of the tank. So what I decided to do might be a little over kill I know but seemed like a good idea at the time, Plus it gave me a chance to practice my braising skills:eek: Which wasn't to bad a job even if I do say so my self, Although self praise is no recommendation haha 
and that was to fit a speed flow fuel filter and a peace of copper pipe to the bottom of the tank in the place of the walbro pump. 
 
 
    
So that's more or less the fuel system sorted now just need to wire the holley pump to the relay and finish bolting the new pump in, as in the pics there's only one bolt on at the moment.
One other thing I had to do was to get my spark plug leads from my last build which are practically brand new and get them custom fitted to the new H6 coils.
which normally fit directly over the spark plug so I got the guy who sold me the four leads to re cut them to the new size I needed and to make two more leads since I'm running a flat six now and also hopefully he could get a boot to fit over the coil minus the coils own boot and thankfully he was able to get that sorted. 
Also I should have the ecu and it's wiring along with a set of six injectors and a new crank trigger as mine is stuffed! maybe by the end of the week so I can start getting stuck into getting the old girl ready for rebirth:P
 
So here are a few pics of the work I've just finished doing this week
 
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Cheers wayne
 
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 25 Oct 2013

Hi all a heap Of pics as I've been doing a lot of fab work and the odd unique additions that might surprise a few or at least offer some different ideas.
 
All work has been done by me under my pergola lol with not the best of tools as I'm gradually building up the collection haha
So I'll try and load up the pics in order of the build progress. Saves me explaining much hopefully that way:rolleyes:
 
Loom sorted and marked all needed pin outs
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Mounting battery box.
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Battery all fitted and wiring and relays for fuel pumps complete:D
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At this stage I'm keeping the dash so I've lightened it as much as I can which also gives me fast access to the ecu and main relays and fuse panel which you'll see in later pics.
I'll also be using carbon fiber bits were I need to plug up holes or mount gauges.
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Now onto the engine bay. I wasn't going to paint it and then I said wtf haha.
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So after working out were the ecu was to go I had to make up a mount and then fit it. Also you can see I've labelled every wire fro the ecu which is itemised in my note pad:wink: 
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The thermo fans relays and wiring and the completed mounting of the wiring.
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Ignition switch and push start wiring done and fitted to fuse panel.
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This is the fuse panel which I had to make a mount for and then find the best location that suits me. 
Comes with 12v and ground connections also can handle up to 120 amps so should do the job:D
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I got norden to make me up some fuel rail fittings since I'm staying with factory rails only I needed to hack the factory reg to salvage the little mounting plate of it see pics as I'm using my sx fuel reg from my last build. Which means I need to run my teflon line out the back of the rails to each side of the big reg.
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Here are a  couple other fittings. When the fuel system is completed I'll post up more pics of the whole set up
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Ok this is my big mod of this build so far see if you can work out what it is:wink: I've done all the painstaking hours of making and then remaking mounts and looking at different ways to mount this sucker. So It's finally done wiring is more or less done now also although not fitted. As I may need to take it out of the engine bay when I remove the engine again.
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Getting there now may have it on the rollers jan if possible but then again haha. 
 
Cheers wayne
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wraithrslib's Photo wraithrslib 25 Oct 2013

 
A big thanks to ben at Ichiban Imports for these headers so all I'm going to do is run a couple of pipes like the v8 supercars do half way down the side skirt and fab some stainless plating to protect the skirt around the pipe outlets. I'll also fit what ever mufflers I may need to use hopefully none lol Any one know the deal at a race track in regards to noise? or is it dependent on what type or racing? I'm mostly going to hill climb the car and some drags will do phillip Island and winton for open days not proper sprints or the like.
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Here's how I'm able to put what ever wires I needed to directly to the starter at this stage there's 4 although there is room to add more. although now I'm looking to get some terminal type block as some people have said better to not have that so exposed to possible fireworks lol
So I'll be removing this as soon as I've found something more sensible and safer!
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Cheers wayne
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Rustyrobertson's Photo Rustyrobertson 25 Oct 2013

was following on rs liberty club, and just fell in love with this build once again here :) great to see some awesome work being done :) very very interested in the side pipes :)

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