I don't think it should when the system is pressurised.
Yeah the bearing was clicked on and then the fork placed after as the box was going in.
I'll give it a go though...ready to do just about anything short of pulling the box out again at this stage..
43 replies to this topic
#22
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:51 PM
Bearing onto the clutch or onto the fork?
#23
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:53 PM
Bearing onto the shaft and then the fork slid in.
#24
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:54 PM
When I did my box, I did the bearing wrong, in order to get the slave on I tried levering with a crowbar, the clutch arm.
Point of story is, if you can move the clutch arm by hand with no mechanical assistance, you've done something wrong
Ok sweet!
Maybe im giving a bum steer then?
Point of story is, if you can move the clutch arm by hand with no mechanical assistance, you've done something wrong
Bearing onto the shaft and then the fork slid in.
Ok sweet!
Maybe im giving a bum steer then?
#25
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:16 PM
Pretty sure I did the exact same thing as I did with the STI...which worked fine.
Jase, care to comment at all? I really don't want to have to drop the box again...
Jase, care to comment at all? I really don't want to have to drop the box again...
#26
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:26 PM
have you had it apart recently? or is it that you just cant get it to bleed?
#27
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:28 PM
Yeah, I put a new gearbox in recently and when I was putting it back together I noticed a split in the boot of the slave cylinder so I figured I would get it reco'd before putting it back together..now it just won't bleed.
#28
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:33 PM
ah ok yeah looks like something below isnt done right
as adam said, it looks like its in its disengaged status and thats why the clutch goes to the floor
can you take off the rubber boot and have a look in?
but yeah you shouldnt be able to swing the fork easily
as adam said, it looks like its in its disengaged status and thats why the clutch goes to the floor
can you take off the rubber boot and have a look in?
but yeah you shouldnt be able to swing the fork easily
#29
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:36 PM
I'll pull the boot off tomorrow and have a look...given up on it today..ready to set it on fire.
When I move the clutch fork there is pressure there, but the fluid in the master reservoir just rises up. I can hear sliding noises when I swing the fork.
Thanks for the help guys
When I move the clutch fork there is pressure there, but the fluid in the master reservoir just rises up. I can hear sliding noises when I swing the fork.
Thanks for the help guys
#30
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:44 PM
hmm maybe its alright then?
how are you bleeding it?
how are you bleeding it?
#31
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:55 PM
Topped up the master reservoir and bled it like Jase said earlier, then had a mate in the car pumping the pedal with his hands.
Built up some pressure, had him hold the pedal to the floor as I cracked the bleed valve (not that I had to, was sitting on the floor anyway). Then I put a piece of clear tubing on there so I could see any bubbles and what they were doing. After a while I had him push the pedal to the floor as I released and redid the bleed valve just to push any bubbles through. After putting 2 bottles through there is still no resistance and just snaps to the floor. He said there were a few instances where there was a bit of pressure but then it was gone straight away.
Hopefully that makes sense. It's the same way I normally bleed the clutches and never had any issues before now.
Built up some pressure, had him hold the pedal to the floor as I cracked the bleed valve (not that I had to, was sitting on the floor anyway). Then I put a piece of clear tubing on there so I could see any bubbles and what they were doing. After a while I had him push the pedal to the floor as I released and redid the bleed valve just to push any bubbles through. After putting 2 bottles through there is still no resistance and just snaps to the floor. He said there were a few instances where there was a bit of pressure but then it was gone straight away.
Hopefully that makes sense. It's the same way I normally bleed the clutches and never had any issues before now.
#32
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:58 PM
The clutch fork should want to push to the rear of the car naturally
#33
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:59 PM
Do you mean the bottom of the fork or the top??
#34
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 05:01 PM
The top
#35
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 05:02 PM
yeah it should^^
can you push the slave in at all?
can you push the slave in at all?
#36
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 05:05 PM
Yeah, I can push the slave all the way in and the fluid in the master reservoir raises. The slave actually slides in quite easy?
#37
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 06:03 PM
Jase, care to comment at all?
Sorry, left work to get the kids.
Yeah, I can push the slave all the way in and the fluid in the master reservoir raises. The slave actually slides in quite easy?
This is normal.
Is it a pull-clutch or a push-clutch?
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#38
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 06:11 PM
Cheers mate 
It's a pull type clutch
It's a pull type clutch
#39
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 06:41 PM
Try bleeding it from behind the strut tower. There should be a nipple back there from where the clutch lines loop around. You may have a big air bubble there that just won't push down to the slave cylinder nipple and its just compressing when the pedal is pressed.
Also it doesn't sound like the throw out bearing has engaged properly (unless I'm misinterpreting) can the fork be pushed forward towards the front of the engine with no resistance?
Also it doesn't sound like the throw out bearing has engaged properly (unless I'm misinterpreting) can the fork be pushed forward towards the front of the engine with no resistance?
#40
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 08:36 PM
Try using a tyre lever or similar to oppose the movemant of the fork when the clutch is operated and try to see how much force it can generate. It may not be a bleeding issue. Was it working after the box was installled but before the slave was replaced?
If you have a good brake line clamp, clamp the hose near as possible to the slave and try to operate the clutch. The pedal should be rock hard if there is no air in the master or line. (You could use some vice grips with cardboard in the jaws to protect the hose)
If you have a good brake line clamp, clamp the hose near as possible to the slave and try to operate the clutch. The pedal should be rock hard if there is no air in the master or line. (You could use some vice grips with cardboard in the jaws to protect the hose)
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