60 replies to this topic

[WillC]

Not sure if you have done anything yetbut that ticking and rattling sound like a coin in a coke can is your engine pinging. I had this problem and had it diagnosed. If you want migoreng I have a scantool and cable

[Zac]

Not sure if you have done anything yetbut that ticking and rattling sound like a coin in a coke can is your engine pinging. I had this problem and had it diagnosed. If you want migoreng I have a scantool and cable

I guess I don't have the pinging all the time. but my car does go into limp mode sometimes when it is hot, and I have the A/C on, and I boot it...

 

Dude... if you are coming to the hooters meet, bring your scantool and cable... if you don't mind, I'd like to see if I have any problems on my B4 as well..

[WillC]

If I haven't killed my B4 again, then its a go. Btw if you guys didn't know Scantool is just ecuexplorer or something similar and cable is tactrix. Right now i'm in the middle of remapping the fuel and timing of my ecu so i'm don't run so rich. Wish me luck ! lol

[Zac]

Haha best of luck dude.. don't run too lean either.. if you become a pro at mapping, I'm next in line...

[WillC]

No go, you're running a B4 computer. I'm running a MY01 WRX on my B4 engine.

[Zac]

No go, you're running a B4 computer. I'm running a MY01 WRX on my B4 engine.

I haz a sad.... LOL!

[migoreng]

Hey Will.

Yeah my boost is still getting stuck at 7psi or 0.5 bar randomly..

Ill head to ichiban most likely and get an opinion soon. I just havent had much time over the past 6 months. Ive just been doing oil changes myself and changed the air filter twice with Ryco ones...upper engine cleaner barely causes any white smoke and I did pull the sensor off the airbox and used maf cleaner. Didnt make any difference.

Im leaning towards the bad factory tune but there could be something in the twin tur o system that might not be actuating properly...maybe faulty knock sensor? ive never had the CEL come on ever. I have decided not to touch anything else as I might do damage. Ill leave it to the experts. Lol

Ill be at the parramata hooters meet on Wednesday. You can do a quick scan if you want. See if anything comes up.

[Jimbo]

I had this exact same problem with my Legacy GT-B when i first got it. Car didn't feel right at all in the first few weeks of owning it and the CEL light flashed briefly every now and then. I thought to myself this thing is supposed to have 206kw/343nm out of the box and it felt shit.

Ended up having a poke under the bonnet, MRT strikes again. Previous owner had an engine rebuild at MRT and the retards couldn't be bothered removing the old knock sensor. So, they put one higher up on the back of the block where it  got more vibration and noise which kept setting it off into SFA boost mode.

Took it off and replaced the one on the block properly with a good one and hey presto, problem solved!

[WillC]

As Jimbo and many others said the B4 is a mystery box, I had the exact same problem half boost while the car lagged spluttered and had a whole heap of general issues. I believe to be honest the half boost is your ECU itself saving you as it is knocking way too hard and the engine is screaming for help. My problem was faulty o2 front which i replaced, faulty crankshaft position sensor which I replaced also. The car ran fine for a while until the Turbos went then after that dump pipe went - most likely as it was too rich since turbo's weren't generating enough air then getting too hot near the cat. Then shortly after that poof end bearing started wearing. It wasn't exactly dead yet but I decided to give my B4 some epic TLC.

And yes it is most likely you have historic CEL codes we might be able to pull. I believe my B4 kept them as a history until reset - not 100% on this tho.

[TSG]

I believe to be honest the half boost is your ECU itself saving you as it is knocking way too hard

 

This was my understanding of it too. I heard pinging under load, shortly after that it would enter this mode. Its like limp mode, without throwing a CEL. Stopping and starting the car can sometimes reset it temporarily, without even resetting the ECU. So be thankful it does do this, or you may have a nice lawn ornament for a while  I found my fix pretty easy luckily.

[WillC]

To throw the CEL from my experience of aids under the bonnet(I can demonstrate tomorrow night lol ) anyhow yes from what I understand of this ecu to actually throw your CEL your sensors need to consistently throw the error.

 

I am seriously think Migoreng has a busted front o2 sensor that is on the way out. If its not this then its another sensor. Regardless though from the video the knocking is there any that B4 does not sound too happy.

[migoreng]

Hey Will. Nice meeting you and thanks for some advice.
I decided to record 2 videos on the way home while the car seemed to be boosting better.. here is accceleration clip #1. I did have my window slightly so there might be wind noise. Outside temp was about 19 to 20...




2nd acceleration run...
what do you think about the boost gauge readings compared to when it's in limp mode?

[WillC]

What is that loud scratching at 9-10 seconds, it sounds like very loud scratching again at 11-12 seconds, the loud tick sound like a ball berring hitting a coke can. Much louder than my pinging I had. It's about at 40km/h 6k rpm. If this is pinging then you better take it easy and baby your car to a dyno and get it looked at. I say dyno since they can diagnose your AFR and use their hardware to detect your knocking under the dyno load properly and give you a decent afr reading.

 

Those are things you can't really do yourself on the road and more importantly you want to be off the road paying attention to the engine, not trying to juggle both and have an accident.

 

Cheers,

Will

[migoreng]

The sound I hear sometimes doesnt sound like a coin in coke can or spray can rattling..it sounds more like a faint metal scraping or zapping from a portable welding unit...if you know what I mean. Hard to explain...

But how does the acceleration look? And like you said, what oil do you recommend? Previous owner used Penrite HPR5 5w40.. so I decided to stay with it. I never have to top up oil as it doesn't burn much...

Ill get Ichiban to take it for a drive and diagnostics.

[WillC]

Your oil itself shouldn't burn. What makes the oil go black is fuel that leaks into the oil gets burnt leaving carbon and that blackens the oil.

 

Oil does leak via various parts and get work and becomes more fuild though. This is what you are looking out for.

If you car is pinging thicker oil will help it mask the pinging and hopefully coat the parts better assisting with the knock, it is merely a very very light bandage. You will still need to take it to a proper workshop with GOod diagnostic tools. Take it easy spend some time doing research and don't hit WOT. Time to baby your car. I used and still use 15-40 or 15-60 if I can get it. IMO thicker oil takes longer to warm up the car but in turn it can take a bit more heat and keep the parts lubricated a bit better.

[TSG]

Pretty sure I can hear a ping right around 6k on the first run (Will picked it too). Second was fine. Not sure if it is experiencing that same 7psi limit I found because the RPM isn't being limited, where mine was, I could barely get it over 3.5k. Might be a manual/auto difference. So many louds down low. My exhaust is stock  sounds about the same when I give it some beans though.

 

People describe it as a marble in a can, when yes it does sound like that, but I hear it as a more of a tchk noise, than the tock of a marble in a can.

[Robbks]

if you're diagnosing TT boost issues<
hard accelleration in 1st/ second is no good.
you need to drive it slow in 3rd and do in-gear, WOT pulls to redline to see that teh system is operating correctly.

But your first thing is to remove, clean out and inspect each and every vacuum line and solenoid one by one.
then you can 100% know the system is clean and boost/ vacuum is getting where it's needed.

no use tuning around a problem

But for now, reset ecu and do the same 3rd gear pull as described above and video that.

Also check your intake piping/ breathers are all in teh right places (do you have a catch can that's probably incorrectly plumbed)
Check knock sesnor for damage/ cracks (it's in a **** spot under the primary intake pipe)

I had an intermittent boost issue like this in my GTB.
a tiny bit of plastic has come away from one of the old brittle solenoid nipples and lodged itself in a pipe and was blocking the flow, causing the ICV to stay open a bit.

You also want to put teh car into Diag Check mode and check the operation of all the valves and solenoids
PLug green OBD connectors together, start car and let it idle.
you should hear all the solenpoids banging away and the ICV and ECV moving

[Hoody]

Can someone tell if the primary solenoid is ment to click like the rest of them when in d mode?

[Bumpty]

No it's not. I don't know why it doesn't, but be assured it doesn't work in d mode.

[Pyr0m4n14c44]

Hi Migoreng,

I know I'm reviving a dead thread but I've developed the same issue with my B4. It randomly limits itself to 7 psi aswell. I've noticed if I thrash it to the point where the second turbo kicks in, that's when it happens.

In short, did you end up finding a fix for this issue?? Cheers mate!
Andrew