29 replies to this topic

[Sic'Em]

Fairly sure the FatMat is butyl based and not asphalt based... but I could be wrong.

 

There is nothing wrong with Car Builders sound deadener at all, I was more leaning towards this myself at one stage, considering it is a true butyl compound. By the looks of it (from the quick research I just did) FatMat comes in asphalt based and also butyl based. It's not very clear in the descriptions anywhere.

 

You opted for Car Builders butyl based sound deadener, which was a great choice.

 

2 channel 50W RMS amp? hmm, well a 100W RMS speaker pulling from a 50W RMS... rather underpowered. IMO you are better off purchasing a matching (or higher) wattage amp for your speakers, as you can then turn down the power on the amp itself to match/balance your speakers so you don't risk popping or melting them, and you don't risk burning out your amplifier.

 

100W RMS per speaker, 200W RMS, plus your 60W RMS per speaker, 120W RMS... so a 400W RMS amp would suffice. Something like this would be perfect to run all 4 speakers. 4 ohm and 2 ohm stable at the same wattage.

 

I'm not sure on what $$$ you are intending on spending... but a less wattage amp would do... but it wont be able to power all 4 speakers to their full potential. You could probably get away with running cheaper amplifiers also... like one of these or two of these. In saying that, your best bet is to match an amplifier to your RMS wattage of your speakers, no disappointments then.

 

*EDIT, even something like this would suffice.

[TittySprinklez]

going with this amp

http://www.ebay.com....=item27d512a3db

[Sic'Em]

Nice, seems like a decent amp.

 

Keep me posted on progress, etc. photos and such.

[TittySprinklez]

will do, should i be applying sound deadener to the boot floor? cause i looked and there's a decent layer already there? like stock stuff, i was thinking i might just install the sub and listen for rattles and such and then go from there. im only having 1 360wrms polk sub in the back so i wonder how much rattling will occur.

[Sic'Em]

Do your doors with the sound deadener first before anything.

 

Not sure what layer of sound deadener the boot has (pic?).

 

You don't need to have sound deadener in the boot, but it does help with road noise/exhaust noise, so that the subwoofer is more pronounced in the vehicle boot space and cabin space, as the subwoofer sound wave does needs to travel through foam seats and such, and with road noise/exhaust noise/etc... it can degrade from the overall quality/listening experience.

 

For a complete setup, I'd sound deaden the doors, boot floor, cabin floor and firewall (inside)... but you can decide on which parts to cover.

[TittySprinklez]

just letting you peeps know i haven't forgotten about this thread, the build is coming along very steadily lol, got all my doors lined with sound deadener, inner and outer skin, and am currently running wires, mounting nexus/EQ, installing rear door speakers, i still have to buy my amp and front speakers and a battery i found out

anyway just thought id give a quick update as it has been 12 days since last post haha

[TittySprinklez]

which optima yellow top will fit in my car ?

[Hypnotic]

I reckon you should be able to fit a D34.

[Sic'Em]

Be sure to take a heap of photos for us all to see.

 

I'm yet to get to my audio install, other things keep getting in the way, bills, mechanical work on car/boat/bike... it never ends when you have 'big boy toys'.

[TittySprinklez]

builds coming along ever so slowly buy is moving on, ill do a full write up once its done.
another question tho, i got another battery, but the terminals are to small, so im thinking since im changing the terminals i may as well do the wires, how do i do em? i looked and the wires dont go to the alternator, should they?\

 

left everything alone and just changed the terminals to bigger ones and got a suitable brace to hold the battery down