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help bleeding clutch system


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#1 yannsB4

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:06 AM

Hey all.

I've tried in vain to bleed the clutch system on the b4.

Essentially, when it gets too hot outside, the pedal will sink to below the spring point, making pedal travel all of 30-40mm and not returning to the top of the travel.

I've swapped slaves thinking this would be the issue but it hasnt resolved it, so next is the master cylinder.

Is there any way to ensure that there's no air in the master cylinder? I've replaced master cylinders before, however i've not done a pull type. Are they that diffrent?

Any help is appreciated.

1994 Mitsubishi Magna | 1992 BMW 325i | 2001 Subaru Liberty B4

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#2 Reevesy

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:28 AM

Best way is to reverse bleed it.

Need a big syringe with some 5 or 6mm hose on the end.

Fill hose and syringe with fluid, put hose on bleed nipple.

Crack open bleed nipple.

Slowly inject fluid whilst pushing clutch fork towards firewall.

When syringe is empty close bleed nipple and remove hose.

Repeat until you see no air bubbles coming out of the resievor.



#3 MrSober88

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 11:12 AM

Had the same issue when I got my conversion done. But I didnt put the heat shield over turbo back on. And only when the car got really hot it would do it.

 

I changed my clutch fluid as I found it had changed from the clear colour to a dark brownish colour. I also bought a turbo beanie and put that on and it has never done it again.

 

How long since you have changed the fluid?



#4 RX25SE

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 11:40 AM

First thing is you MUST have free play at the pedal.

Take a look under the dash and see if the push rod can rattle about little. Ideally you will have about 5mm of pedal movement before the piston in the master begins to move.

If there is no free play, the compensating port in the master will be held closed and no amount of bleeding will solve the problem.


IIRC there was an fault from factory with the flexible hose causing this issue. Subaru had eithet a recall or an upgraded part to fix it, cant remember which.


If the adjustment is OK they bleed easy, just like any other car.

If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?

 


#5 sbv

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 11:52 AM

Hi Mate

 

This issue is also discussed here (though no definitive solution).

http://www.subyclub....oor-liberty-b4/

 

 

IIRC there was an fault from factory with the flexible hose causing this issue. Subaru had eithet a recall or an upgraded part to fix it, cant remember which.

 

I suspect this is actually the issue - given the location of this hose, it is prone to getting quite hot. Replacing it with a braided hose may fix the problem.

 

...I also have this problem pop up every now and then on hot days and will probably replace the hose to see if that fixes it (though I have a few other things on the table at the moment, so it wont be happening tomorrow).



#6 bobbyjimmy

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:09 PM

Subaru had eithet a recall or an upgraded part to fix it, 

 

Was an 'upgrade' - the hose, the slave and the clutch pedal spring.


2002 Outback - it's gone...


#7 yannsB4

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 09:48 PM

How long since you have changed the fluid?

 about 24 hours. I changed slave cylinder last night, and flushed all fluid through. I changed master cylinder today and bled it for 1.5 hours. Was fine for about 30mins
 

First thing is you MUST have free play at the pedal.
If the adjustment is OK they bleed easy, just like any other car.


Well ive changed the type of master cylinder im using. It no longer has the large circular valve at the bottom just under the reservoir. It is still a 5/8ths so still the same spec. Im going to try to change the flexi pipe and see how it goes. Thanks for that.

Just as a reference, i probably have 50mm of free play on the pedal as when it does return past the spring point, it doesnt engage until it's level with the footrest.

Thanks for the help guys.

1994 Mitsubishi Magna | 1992 BMW 325i | 2001 Subaru Liberty B4

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