279 replies to this topic

[duncanm]

starting to look like a car interior again!

 

Nothing better than all that wiring disappearing behind the dash.

[Lukeoly]

Post weekend update!

 

My plan for nightly update posts last week kind of fell by the wayside. Work got even busier in the second half of the week. I also didn't feel like sitting back down at a computer to write the updates at 12am. My appologies

 

Saturday Morning everyone arrived nice and early to get stuck into it.

Plenty of point of reference here!

 

A massive thanks to Morgan, Cam and Carl (Cam's apprentice) for spending their day off to come help 

 

We rolled the engine out of the shed to get it ready for its new home

 

 

Timing covers and exhaust shielding back on

 

Clutch on 

 

This engine mount has seen better days. It didn't exactly survive the accident in my old car. Thanks to fellow SubyClub member Matt, we had some new mounts to fit up

 

Cam using the force to line the engine up with the gearbox

 

So close!

 

And it's in! (I always seem to have my bum hanging out in these pics LOL)

 

 

 

 

Purists look away now 

 

The boys had to head but I kept at it and got a few more things fitted up

 

I was kinda bummed when I realised I would have to use the grubby Liberty Alt and AC pump bracket (instead of my nicely painted WRX one) to fit the Liberty AC pummp. I toyed with the idea of re-pinning the WRX pump but there was a different amount of wires so I decided to stick with the Liberty stuff.

I also fitted the GD radiator but ran into some dramas. I'm a little worried about how close the top hose comes to the power steering pump but we'll see how it goes with a belt and some operating temperature. The main problem a ran into is the thermo-fan connectors. The Liberty connector is a simple 2 wire deal. The GD connector is 3 wires. Anybody know if it's just a case of wiring in two of the three wires?

[Lukeoly]

I found some info in a NASIOC post that at least gives some context to the wires:

 

- Black is ground on both plugs.

One plug will have

- yellow and red=Hi speed

- white and blue=Low speed

 

The other plug will be

- yellow and green=Hi speed

- white and green= lo speed

 

I'm guessing wiring the high speed in and leaving the low speed is the way to go?

[duncanm]

 

I found some info in a NASIOC post that at least gives some context to the wires:

 

- Black is ground on both plugs.

One plug will have

- yellow and red=Hi speed

- white and blue=Low speed

 

The other plug will be

- yellow and green=Hi speed

- white and green= lo speed

 

I'm guessing wiring the high speed in and leaving the low speed is the way to go?

 

 

Looking at the lib wiring diagrams I have, the 2.5 and 2.0TT have two two-pin fans.  They are called main and sub-fan, but they're both 75W.

 

the H6 seems to have something more complicated - 4-pin fans (speed controlled) . Was your donor lib an H6?

 

For the 2.5 and 2.0TT, Wiring is common ground, lo to one fan, high to the other.  Not sure it matters left/right which is which. 

 

I think I'd be wiring them to the 'low' speed -- so they kick in early. Wiring them to high speed will have them turn on later.

  

 H6.pdf   16.21KB   0 downloads

 H4TT.pdf   10.46KB   3 downloads

[Lukeoly]

 

Looking at the lib wiring diagrams I have, the 2.5 and 2.0TT have two two-pin fans.  They are called main and sub-fan, but they're both 75W.

 

the H6 seems to have something more complicated - 4-pin fans (speed controlled) . Was your donor lib an H6?

 

For the 2.5 and 2.0TT, Wiring is common ground, lo to one fan, high to the other.  Not sure it matters left/right which is which. 

 

I think I'd be wiring them to the 'low' speed -- so they kick in early. Wiring them to high speed will have them turn on later.

  

H6.pdf

H4TT.pdf

 

Liberty is/was a 2.5 RX. 

I have these fans:

- GC8  - 3 wire connector

- GD (came with rad) same 3wire as GC8 ones

- BH RX - 2 wire 

 

My first thought was to swap out the WRX fans for the lib ones but then you use the mounting spot for the overflow. 

[Reevesy]

I have some 2 wire after market fans if your interested. No shroud though. Wouldn't ask much for them as they are sitting here doing nothing.

[duncanm]

ah ok. I think I understand

 

You've got a GC8 rad plus fans (3-pin).

 

Has your rejigged wiring harness got the two-pin liberty plugs?

 

The lib fans will fit with an overflow. Mine does. Maybe you need a B4 overflow bottle? It doesn't look obviously different in this view:

 

 

 

EDIT: No.. I'm confused. You said you had 3-wire plugs.

[Matt]

What alternator did you end up using Luke?

Oh and...good progress is good!

[Lukeoly]

What alternator did you end up using Luke?

Oh and...good progress is good!

 

I've got the GC8 WRX one in there at the moment. We'll see how that goes I guess.

 

ah ok. I think I understand

 

You've got a GC8 rad plus fans (3-pin).

Has your rejigged wiring harness got the two-pin liberty plugs?

The lib fans will fit with an overflow. Mine does. Maybe you need a B4 overflow bottle? It doesn't look obviously different in this view:

EDIT: No.. I'm confused. You said you had 3-wire plugs.

Pretty sure it's a GD radiator but the GC8 and GD fans appear to have the same 3 pin connector.

I checked again and you're right, the Lib fan does have mounting for an overflow (of course  ). I mounted the Liberty fans to the radiator along with the overflow. Everything fits and has plenty of clearance 

I also managed to find the original Liberty top radiator and thought I'd see if it offered more clearance than the WRX one. 

 

WRX hose left, Liberty hose right:

 

A much nicer fit.

 

One thing I almost lost my chops over was finding this: 

 

It's the fitting on the driver side that comes from the header tank. I'm not sure if this was like this when I got it or if it's happened in storage/transit. Does anyone know if this can be fixed/is worth fixing?

As I see it, these are the options:

- Glue another fitting in there

- Seal it up and run the hose somewhere else or block it off at the header tank

- Ditch the rad and use the Liberty one until I can find something else

 

I'm open to suggestions at this stage

[Matt]

I wouldnt block it thats for sure.....dunno how the glue would hold up either? Maybe if it was threaded and glued?

Id run the lib one till you find a spare honestly

[duncanm]

glad the fans/tank/hoses worked out.. 

 

I wouldn't trust glue alone.... maybe drill it out and screw in a brass hose-barb fitting - with some sealant in the threads for good measure.

[Cam.]

That radiator is now rubbish. Very common for that to happen.

Run the Liberty one and block off the line coming from the header tank.

[Lukeoly]

That's what I was thinking man. It's not worth "fixing it" only to have it pop off and drain the system. It'd be an easy way to ruin your day

[Lukeoly]

Update!

 

I got the ECU back from Ichiban and decided to get in straight into the car(Huge thanks to Scott with putting up with my questions and phonecalls with extra codes to remove).

 

I had the following codes removed:

• AVCS – Being a JDM ECU it was programmed to run AVCS. My engine doesn't have AVCS so all the table fields were zero'd out and the CEL removed.
• Secondary O2 Sensor – This sensor is for checking if the catalytic convertor is working. That's nice but it's easier to remove the code than adding a bung in the exhaust
• EGT senosr
• GD Alternator switch – I'm running a GC8 Alternator and the switching wire is for turning off the alternator for some increased ecconomy

 

 

Plugged in

 

Mounted

 

Tucked away!

 

I decided to keep going with the interior

 

 

Pretty much complete

[duncanm]

hubba hubba - when's start day?

[Barbbachello]

That interior is dying for some jdm treatment as well I think

[Lukeoly]

I almost forgot I had wired up the fuel pump!

 

Al includes new wiring to run down to the pump from the GD fuel pump controller (Liberty doesn't have one).

I ran the wiring down the driver side to underneath the back seats. The plan was to wire it in just before the wiring goes through the inspection plate but on the BH the wiring goes through the passenger side inspection plate and then along the top of the fuel tank to the other side. Wanting to be as neat as possible, I didn't want to drill any new holes or cut into one of the fuel line grommets. I ended up running the wiring across to the passenger side and spliced it into the loom before the inspection plate connector. This way the plate isn't wired to the car and serves it purpose in the normal way. I only JUST had enough wiring to make it. 

 

 

Soldering... sorry Al. I figure being in the car it's pretty protected from heat and the elements.

 

All taped up (it got tucked away much neater than this afterwards)

[Lukeoly]

hubba hubba - when's start day?

Hopefully this Saturday. But there's still a couple of bits I realised are missing last weekend - budget is kinda maxed out at the moment :-/

 

That interior is dying for some jdm treatment as well I think

Very true. I think it's dying for some treatment of any kind really. There's still so much nasty crap from the previous owner in there GROSS!

[Cam.]

GD rack, pump and lines

Don't forget.

[Lukeoly]

It's on the list man. But I'm out of budget at this stage  :-/