39 replies to this topic

[Robert]

Should have


Well I'm a fuckin retard the rears are back to front,

[Beckers]

That happens to the best of us.

 

Bonus is, it's an easy fix !

[Cam.]

Haha!

Derpdy derpa.

[CRUISN]

Well I'm a fuckin retard the rears are back to front,

 

Dont you mean upside down?

 

Ive done the same thing years ago. Thats how we learn.

[Barbbachello]

Glad to hear its not something more sinister. I almost put mine on upside down as well haha

[Robert]

 
Dont you mean upside down?
 
Ive done the same thing years ago. Thats how we learn.

Same thing

Logic says that it should be up the top but I no think logic when I put them on

[Robert]

Compared to the old brakes, pretty good upgrade.

Pedal travel is a little more, thinking of adjusting the adjuster on the brake pedal, that should bring it up a bit right?

[CodeBurn3r]

To adjust the pedal play you should be doing it at the booster.
There is a shaft that you adjust the nut on the end in or out.
Doing it at the pedal isn't the best way

[RX25SE]

Glad you sorted it Rob.

 

 

 

yeah but 4 pots look cooler....

 

But these will stop waaaaay better

 

( I think Chris commented on the effectiveness of Spec B brakes when we were at Winton)

 

 

I wont despute that

 

 

 

Bigger rotor = better heat dispersion, exactly what i wanted

 

What you have done is increase the 'mean rotor diameter'.

 

 

Compared to the old brakes, pretty good upgrade.

Pedal travel is a little more, thinking of adjusting the adjuster on the brake pedal, that should bring it up a bit right?

 

Be careful.

If you adjust between the booster and master, allow some clearance between the end of the rod and the rear of the piston. If the clearance is too tight or none at all, there is a risk the primary seal will cover the port in the master. This means the master cannot release fluid when the brakes are released causing brake drag.

Same theory applies when adjusting between the pedal and booster.

Try and adjust them, but make sure you leave clearance.

[CodeBurn3r]

Jase. Am I right in saying the "mush" before the pedal does anything is the adjustment at the booster/master piston and the "loose" pedal play is the pedal adjustment?

By mush I mean there is a bit of resistance but it's kinda life an air in the system feel.

[Liberty]

All fixed now Rob?

[RX25SE]

Jase. Am I right in saying the "mush" before the pedal does anything is the adjustment at the booster/master piston and the "loose" pedal play is the pedal adjustment?

By mush I mean there is a bit of resistance but it's kinda life an air in the system feel.

 

Sounds  about right Ty.

 

There should be a small (about 3mm) of nothing when the pedal is first moved. This is the free play before the pedal starts to move the booster. From there its the booster rod moving the master cyl piston. Often there is zero clearance or even a slight force on the piston between the booster rod and piston. This is due to the fact that even with the piston slightly forward, the compensating port in the master is still uncovered in the release position so pressure can be released back to the reservoir. Remember that the rod that passes through the master is basically a solid bar (with a rubber reaction disc between the input and output) so that the brakes will still work if the booster fails.

 

 

Rob, It may be a good idea to let the brakes bed in a little before you start to adjust anything. Sometimes new brakes give the feeling of air in the system or poor adjustment.

[Robert]

Cheers guys for all the help.

I will be doing a proper gravity bleed during the week some time, just to rule out any air in the system.

I'll wait till after HVC to adjust the master cylinder,

So will I need to remove the master cylinder to adjust this nut on the booster?
It's the rod that actually presses on the master cylinder right?

[RX25SE]

I will be doing a proper gravity bleed during the week some time, just to rule out any air in the system.
 

 

If there is air sitting high up in the lines, then a gravity bleed may not get it out?

 

Did you remove / change the master cylinder on this job?

 

 

 

So will I need to remove the master cylinder to adjust this nut on the booster?

 

Yes.

But you may not need to remove the lines

 

 

It's the rod that actually presses on the master cylinder right?

 

Yes.

 

I would wait until you have bedded in the brakes though.

 

The more you start to do, the further away your starting point becomes.

[RX25SE]

Hahaha

[Samwise]

 

 

 

OMG IT'S PERFECTLY WOB!

[Robert]

 

If there is air sitting high up in the lines, then a gravity bleed may not get it out?

 

Did you remove / change the master cylinder on this job?

 

 

 

 

Yes.

But you may not need to remove the lines

 

 

 

Yes.

 

I would wait until you have bedded in the brakes though.

 

The more you start to do, the further away your starting point becomes.

 

 

Didn't remove the master cylinder so there shouldn't be any air up the top, unless the air bubble made its way up the top.

 

Should i do the pump and hold method first and then the gravity bleed or other way round?

 

Yeah i'm going to wait to adjust the booster rod, the brakes are working really well just the pedal travel is a little more than desirable.

 

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

OMG IT'S PERFECTLY WOB!

YEP

 

looks like me alright

[RX25SE]

I never find a need to gravity bleed. I just do the usual open nipple on downstroke etc. If Im changing the fluid, I just keep pumping until I see a colour change then do the open close thing.

[Meadyy8]

glad you got it sorted man. significant upgrade from standard gx brakes hey!