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Gen2 BG5 TT diagrams etc


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#21 duncanm

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 08:52 AM

There are check valves in the rubber lines at the canister which should stop any boost leaks. 

 

Ah. ok



#22 Jimbo

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 09:10 AM

Acres is spot on. That blocked off line is indeed part of the PCS system. The solenoid is smack underneath the manifold and probably broken.


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#23 Robbks

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 10:54 AM

the top link is for the Rev A-B JDM Legacy TT
Same as I used to own.
As It has the info for the secondary wastegate, which was deleted on the RevC

Which revision is your car?
GT or GT-B?

Rev A/B did not have a PCS. it had a one way valve and that was it.

And what exactly is the problem?

I've sorted out just about every problem known to man on a Gen2 GT/ GTB
You still in Tassie mate..?



#24 Bumpty

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 08:24 PM

That is music to my ears rob! Yea I'm still in Tas (Nw) but more than happy to bring the car to you haha

Lines 10 and 12 were in each other's spot where they connect to the top of the manifold lines.
So, I swapped them to the correct position and this made my boost gauge read 5psi MAX (but still usually about 3/4psi) before the revs cut out at about 3k.

I believe you are all right about the line that goes to the pcs, pow fully I have time tomorrow to pull the interfooler off and have a look.

However, by the sounds of it. This line will have minimal effect on my boost issues. So still remains the question why I'm reading about 3/4psi before revs cut? That is my question/problem...

#25 Robbks

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:58 AM

step 1

disconnect and plug up the factory boost control.
i.e remove the lot from the passenger side.
leave the solenoid in-guard plugged in, just loop a bit of hose from inlet to outlet.  It's rubbish, but needs to be polugged in and free of gunk to keep it happy

connect a short piece of hose directly from primary turbo outlet nipple (pressure source) to the wastegate actuator.
Make sure you're boost gauge is plumbed into the intake manifold directly,

you should now be able to run a consistent 8-9 psi for the whole rev range and be able to troubleshoot further.
if it's still cutting out, you've got otehr issues with plumbing or sensors

happy to take a look if you're in Hobart at some stage mate.


why oh why didin't you go single when you rebuilt the engine....?
yours is super easy to convert.
plug in a V3 STi ecu (swap 3 wires in the loom)
bolt on single turbo and front half of exhaust
block off an oil and water feed and it's done.






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