crjohnson

Slight update, got my exhaust headers installed over the weekend. Hardly given it the boot yet so no idea if they make a difference in how it goes (not that I really expect it). These manifolds (stock cats and mid section), plus the 2015 wrx STI rear mufflers and a 3" pipe from the filter box outlet to the throttle body seem to make some nice sound! Really deep 'boooaarrr' sound when it gets going, without being raspy and loud! I'll try get a video soon. 

 

Found a front outer cv boot clamp that's come off at some stage so need to fix that, then maybe look at some new a/f sensors or other general stuff. Have a 20mm rear sway bar (plus mount brackets) in the works too, just to finish bend it and maybe get it heat treated! 

Hows the engine work going though? So much driveline not enough HP's? 

Thats one thing that sucks in the gen3's, 1 cup holder.. 

I've tried the basic type stuff, not really the full on coatings:

- Repco eclipse ceramic polish made easy: I gave this a shot as it was on special and I saw a reasonably good youtube review. It was ok, wouldn't bother with it again. 

- Bowden's Happy Ending: I reckon this stuff is good! Although you need a cannon and pressure washer, it seems to last a fairly long time (at least a couple of months or more) and is easy to use. You get a fair few application from the big bottle too. 

- Meguires hybrid ceramic spray wax: I bought a bottle to try, saw some really good reviews on youtube again. Will let you know what its like soon! 

Hey guys, well all the fault codes are gone (thanks to the nexus 7 and BTSSM), cruise control works and no engine lights or anything. I didn't know at the time that BTSSM could clear codes! 

Here are my notes on the wiring:

- get an accurate copy of the FSM for your car! 

- Bypass the inhibitor relay shown in ST(06)-01. I made small wire approx. 50mm long with 2 male, flat blade terminals on each end. Plugged it into poles 3 and 4. Leave the other terminals in the relay plug empty. Cover with electrical tape. The relay is located up behind the fuse box to the right of the steering wheel.

- I ran 2 x 2core wires from the gearbox, through the firewall and to the ecu (neutral safety switch) and to the back-up light relay.

- Wire in the back-up/reverse light as per BACK/L(R )-01 in the FSM. The reverse wires only need 2 male flat blade terminals and to be plugged into poles 3 and 4 on the relay plug. Leave the other terminals in the relay plug empty. Cover with electrical tape

- Wire in the neutral safety switch to C31 on the ECU (see page E/G(RH6)-12 in FSM). I cut the existing C31 wire, joined the NSS to the ECU side of that wire, then joined the other NSS wire to the B122 joint connector. I spliced into 1 wire in that joint connector and joined the NSS wire to that. The other end of the C31 wire that you cut just gets taped up. 

- Wire in the clutch as per E/G(RH6)-05. I ran a 2 core wire from the clutch pedal/switch across to the ECU, then cut the C25 wire (which exists in the auto loom), joined clutch wires to that.

-  Add a pin and wire to C15 on the ECU and ground this to the chassis. This is the auto/manual ID wire for the ECU. The diagrams I had showed this joining with C14 which I originally did but this caused a bunch of "circuit high" faults which all pointed to a short circuit somewhere. Ground this to the chassis or ECU mounts as I did. 

- Remove the PV-IGN relay, I don't really know what this does, looks like some sort of power supply to the TCM. 

Plug in your BUI, cluster, ECU, swap your ABS unit and Key barrel assembly for the manual version. To remove the key barrel, use a sharp cold-chisel and gently hammer the security bolts off (in clockwise direction), replace with M8 screws. Unplug the TCM (hide those plugs somewhere up in the dash), tape up the 2 x auto trans plugs in the engine bay (you only need the oxy sensors plugs). Off you go! 

I have no idea if this will work for 2.5T - 5eat cars but I'd be surprised if it didnt. 

I also used a 21200AA072 thermostat, these open and are fully open 4degrees lower than the standard h6 thermostat. I can definitely see lower temps on the BTSSM gauges. See the link below for more info:

https://legacygt.com...postcount=14760