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Josh18

Member Since 23 Jul 2018
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:26 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Another One - Barbbachello's 98 Westinghouse RX

22 March 2019 - 10:26 PM

Ahh right. At least you're in a wagon now, such a good looking shape!


In Topic: Another One - Barbbachello's 98 Westinghouse RX

20 March 2019 - 03:04 PM

Hey Babs is the sedan there the one in your signature block? If so what happened to it, it looked mint!


In Topic: Air supply system

14 February 2019 - 09:54 PM

When you connect the green connectors together (and black? I can't remember) do all your solenoids cycle? The big ECV duty solenoid I have found should click intermittently in this mode. Also then when you start the car does the ECV then open and close? I ask this as I reckon your code 66 which I think is a difference in pressure between the two turbos and the lack of twin mode sometimes is because the ECV is not opening for some reason. Maybe one of the solenoids that controls the ECV (there are three) is sometimes sticking causing random problems. I got to know my system a lot better by disconnecting one line at a time with the engine idling in diagnostics mode and seeing what the different lines all do and whether they blow or suck. Some of it, particularly the operation of the ECV still leaves me scratching my head but disconnecting any line always has an effect of some sort so they are all playing a part.

One thing I did notice is that the system is very sensitive to line diameter. I carried out the mod in the TT guide where you bypass the ECV duty solenoid. This didn't really work well at all so I put the lines back, but because I had cut the originals I put in some of the silicone line I had that was smaller diameter by 1mm or so. The car would now take for ever to get over the VOD. So I put the original lines back in albeit a little shorter as I had chopped them and the car was back to normal. Just something to think about if you have changed lines.

Cheers


In Topic: Changing the ratio of a R160 SureTrac Diff

31 January 2019 - 09:33 PM

Nah I don't think so.

001.jpg

You can see where it has been welded, and then machined flush. Mine had cracks through those welds and because these diffs are so rare/ unloved I couldn't find much info on whether it was a big deal or not. I ended up re-welding them and there seemed to be no reason why they were even machined anyway. I really think though looking at the case that the end is screwed in and the welds are just there to stop them unscrewing. Mine has been fine but I haven't driven that car much since doing the diff.

How do you find yours?


In Topic: Changing the ratio of a R160 SureTrac Diff

29 January 2019 - 09:10 PM

I missed this one. I have done this and as you said it was easy. Did you have to grind out some of the casing to fit the fatter LSD centre in? Apparently LSD casings have some relief done at the factory. Also did you notice any cracking in the machined off welds that hold the suretrac casing together? I re-welded mine as they were cracked all along their length. I think they just stop the parts unscrewing anyway so it probably didn't matter anyway.