909 replies to this topic

[CRUISN]

Seats are Gen4 Lib. Look like STi ones due to the sticking and velour centres...

[R-Y]

Chris I had the same problem. I ground a little off the side of my sandwich plate. I didn't hook any sensors up but I think I'll have to rotate it to make he sensors fit. And I'll also have to modify/remove the heat shielding as well.
I'll tame a photo this weekend and show you what I've done

[SAV84C]

Sorry mate, was mid way through a big drinking session the other day when you called. I was of no use to anyone lol

I actually bent the water line a bit to fit the sandwich plate. Mine looks like it may have been a little slimmer than your though which may have helped. Where did you get the plate from?

http://www.prospeedr...Suits-DEFI.html

Seats are Gen4 Lib. Look like STi ones due to the sticking and velour centres...

Dam! wont fit the foz then. Different rails... Good price too!

Chris I had the same problem. I ground a little off the side of my sandwich plate. I didn't hook any sensors up but I think I'll have to rotate it to make he sensors fit. And I'll also have to modify/remove the heat shielding as well.
I'll tame a photo this weekend and show you what I've done

I was gonna ground off a little but decide not go down that path as I didnt want to remove the heat shielding... Apparently under bonnet temps will raise fairly high and the heat from the headers will kill ur sensors.

[Adam]

Remove the shielding and then wrap the headers? Or get them ceramic coated?

[Matt]

I was gonna ground off a little but decide not go down that path as I didnt want to remove the heat shielding... Apparently under bonnet temps will raise fairly high and the heat from the headers will kill ur sensors.

Ceramic coated Kando equal lengths ftw piss that oem shizz off

and get rid of that shitty burble while youre at it

[SAV84C]

Remove the shielding and then wrap the headers? Or get them ceramic coated?

Cbf... Rather just tap into the OEM oil sensor under the alternator or near the back of the engine...



http://www.subarufor...html#post753706

http://www.scoobymod...513.html?t=5513

[Morgan]

All this talk of sandwiches and wraps are making me hungary.

[SAV84C]

All this talk of sandwiches and wraps are making me hungary.

you and me both

[SAV84C]

For those that havent seen on FB, I started getting clunking/knocking sound from the front end while driving... Didnt matter if I was going straight or turning it was a constant rhythmic sound... I coasted it all the way home by this time it was too dark to really inspect anything properly but I jacked it and my right driveshaft seemed a little looser than my left...

I decided to call it quits and leave it for this arvo with more light...

Put the car on stands, I put the car in drive and seemed as though my driveshafts arent rotating straight. Carrier bearing or the driveshaft no good?

I did the good old "hold one end of a screwdriver to your ear and the other end to the diff" to listen for any noise... Hard to tell if it was the carrier bearing or if it was the driveshaft cup being loose...

Drained the diff oil, no metal particles thank ***... .

Now I just need to do the process of elimination, remove the driveshaft n see if the carrier bearing is no good...

Now Ive never removed these type of driveshafts before, does anyone have any tips?



I looked in the manual but im confused

[Scuba-Roo]

i've just cracked the 32mm nut, jacked the car up, remove wheel, unbolt the ball joint and pop it out. then pin punch the pin in on the gearbox side out.

[Adam]

??



I've seen Mark's way done when removing gearbox (pretty much) Seems effective!

[Cam.]

I prefer removing the shock bolts and using leverage to move the control arm down while leaving the ball joint alone. Personal preference.

Marks way works well though.

Use plenty of WD40, RP7 or Rost off on all bolts. The hub retaining nut will be pretty secure with rust if you haven't been running centre caps.

When removing the retaining pin, Use a punch. When punching it back in, Use a long 1/4 drive extensions female side to hold the pin in place as you hit the male end to get it started.

When putting it back together, Use new split pins.

[SAV84C]

Ok there's no retaining pin for these fuckers of driveshafts... They cv joint just popped out of its cup when I pulled the shaft put of the hub...



Anyone wanna take a 2nd guess how to get these fuckers out?

[Adam]

Step10.

Looks like you just need to lever it out? Im assuming thats what the "ST" does?

I'm sure someone will know fo sho though.

[SAV84C]

http://www.subaruclu...t=9035&start=30

[SAV84C]

Got the fucker out with a crow bar... Just needed some leverage...

[SAV84C]

Heres my options for fixing the Foz

I can have my mechanic fit for $300 plus oil + tow cost...



1. Full Recondition Transmission/Diff $3050+gst Supply & fit - All Drive Subaroo - 12mth Warranty

2. 2nd hand $1950 + $150 freight - 115,000km - Sunspares - 6mth Warranty

3. 2nd hand $950 - 132000km - General Japanese Spares (not sure if turbo box)


Leaning toward Full Recondition

[SAV84C]

Little update...

Car is booked in @ All Drive Subaru for diagnose and repair for this Saturday.

Getting it towed by www.bullettowing.com.au $80-$100


Also Ive had a redline auto gear boot sitting around for the past 2 months which I only remembered about yesterday so in it went... Lot better than the cheap carbon wrap me thinks...



I think I just need a short gear knob now...

In Park



Drive



1st Gear



Should look like this with a short gear knob

[ADZY7]

Like

[aekOne]

do you drive around with your hand on the shifter and drop your shoulder between changes