162 replies to this topic

[Scuba-Roo]

In other news, i love 6speeds. "that awkward moment when your fooli sik 80k hsv gets obliterated by a shitbox 20yr old family wagon while showing off to a bunch of chicks in the back seat"

Haha thats gold!

[Grant]

In other news, i love 6speeds. "that awkward moment when your fooli sik 80k hsv gets obliterated by a shitbox 20yr old family wagon while showing off to a bunch of chicks in the back seat"

Lololol, so much win right here.

[Marv]

Lol she didnt realise who you were so she played dumb

[RX25SE]

Got a new clutch, fitted it Friday night, works fine.

Which bit was incorrect/faulty?




Hahaha
Reminds me of the days when I used to go 'nugget hunting' in my Gemini wagon.
(before cars went psssshhhhhhfufufufufufu)

[Morgan]

Lol she didnt realise who you were so she played dumb

Haha I figured as much

[Marv]

Pressure plate was the only thing left from the first setup i tried. I looked at it on friday night when i dropped the box and the fingers sat very slightly outwards - rather than flat or sitting inwards - which indicates too much preload on the pressure plate. Its the right part number so i think its a manufacturing defect with th thickness of the friction material on the pressure plate.

[RX25SE]

Pressure plate was the only thing left from the first setup i tried. I looked at it on friday night when i dropped the box and the fingers sat very slightly outwards - rather than flat or sitting inwards - which indicates too much preload on the pressure plate. Its the right part number so i think its a manufacturing defect with th thickness of the friction material on the pressure plate.

Maybe mismatched parts?
If the fingers have not pulled in enough then, as you say, clutch plate is too thin.

[Marv]

Nup - I stuck verniers on the organic friction disc and it's actually THINNER than a 2nd hand stock one I had laying about. The problem i had pointed to a friction disc which was too thick (and therefore not letting the pressure plate seat all the way in), however it was definitely the pressure plate in the end.

Here are some pics of the shenanigans. I stopped taking pics once things started going wrong. I'll get some more once I've cleaned the car up

A pile of bits. This is pretty much everything you need to put a 6MT/R180 into a GC8/Gen1 Lib. The parts there include - box, diff centre, rear shafts, rear hubs, auto tailshaft, rear rotors, 2-pot rear brakes, GD lateral control arms (to suit CV shafts), 6MT mount, 6MT shifter (specific to type of box you're using - Lib for Lib box, STi for STi box, etc). I'm also using a 6MT clutch which means I need the 6MT starter.

I had to get a new diff flange put on the front of my R180 snout so it would all match up with my auto tailshaft. Gen1 Libs aren't the same flange pattern as GC8 WRX so watch that. Also, you have to set the preload when you tighten the nut to make sure it's correctly torqued. Too loose and it could rattle off and leave the diff innards to slop around and destroy themselves. Too tight and it cruses a tube inside the diff. I had a diff shop do it for me. Much easier



6MT flywheel - machined. This is now a paperweight Please note - going from 5MT to 6MT, the 6MT flywheel uses 9 bolts to hold the pressure plate on, not 6 as per the 5MT.


My 6MT is a 2005 model so it takes male CV shafts (which plug INTO the box). As I wanted to use my original RS/GC8 driveshafts and front hubs I needed to convert the box to this spec. I ordered new 5MT seals from Subaru and got hold of a pair of front CV stubs from an early Liberty auto gearbox. Pry the old seal out, carefully tap the new seal in, push stubs in, give them a tap 'til they go *click* and you're done. Note - to buy those stubs from Subaru you're looking at +$300ea


The old lameness - the R160 rear-end. I left the calipers attached to the brake lines to minimise fluid lost when I attached the 2-pots. Otherwise the whole cradle pretty much came out in 1 go.


Apart from their superior roll centres (due to better mounting points for their lateral arms), another reason to get a GD STi cradle is their solid mounting bushes

R160


R180


Another view of the R180. Cusco arms are a nice addition. Thanks, Gotitrex!


Due to pre-99 motors running a 4-bolt motor I don't have the extra threaded hole for the lower starter bolt. This meant I had to tap a thread for a bolt (a diff stud works well)... well, I had to get my neighbour to do it as I was getting pics. Say g'day to Ron everyone!




6MT vs 5MT. Bit of a difference.




6MT clutch set-up (bottom) vs 5MT (top). I now know the 6MT pressure plate pictured is wrong. The 6MT clutch runs a larger diameter face, so theoretically has more grip




I'll get more pics soon

[Marv]

So ive got a haltech e8 on the shelf for this, plus an innovate lc1 wideband, new gm 3bar map sensor and a bunch of wiring diagrams. The e8 is a plugin ecu but rather than paying $500 for a patch loom im going to make my own.

If there is any interest i can do a diy thread on it?

[Richo]

While I wouldn't use it, I would like to see and read it.

[Alex]

Hells to the yeah.

Interest from me.

[Shaz]

Interest from me too Marv.

Cheers,
Shazza

[Dylan]

Interested also Marvian.

[Adam]

INTEREST!

[Hypnotic]

I too have an interest Marv.

[RX25SE]

Do you have a baseline setup for the E8 or do you start from scratch?

Any idea on how much dyno time to setup?


Throw up a thread.
Reading about this stuff makes my bumhole tingle.

[Marv]

Do you have a baseline setup for the E8 or do you start from scratch?

Any idea on how much dyno time to setup?


Throw up a thread.
Reading about this stuff makes my bumhole tingle.

I've got copies of the tunes I had done on my last RS (which ran a Haltech E11v2), and the mate of mine I got this E8 off has copies of all his tunes for his different motor/injector/turbo set-ups, plus about 5 other cars. With the wideband, this allows me to upload a tune for a similarly set-up car and then refine it.

I won't be going to a tuner as the only guy I'd trust with the car (MSR) doesn't tune Haltechs. Going off past experience, it will probably take us 1-2 hours late at night (on private roads *cough*) to refine the tune and boost, with more minor fiddling to come over a 6month period - going out once every few weeks to datalog for 10-15mins, then make small adjustments to really refine the tune.

I'm still trying to decide if I'm going to go under-manifold intake or not. I don't think I will, but I'd like to move some stuff about in the engine bay (meaning I'll probably soon go to Pirtek to have new PS lines done up).

[Alex]

Pirtek in Blacktown are cun7s.



Carry on.

[Marv]

Pirtek Gosford are awesome.

Next time you need shit, come up, we'll drink beer and work on your car in my garage

[Marv]

New wheels, tidied up the engine bay (oil breathers redone, power steering reservoir remounted), cleaned the interior for the first time in months.