162 replies to this topic

[Grant]

I need someone to take pics/vids of this thing getting its skid on.

I have gopro.

[Marv]

Sounds like we should organise a coastie dawn run, followed by brekkie, followed by more driving, followed by pub lunch

[Grant]

Name the date and I'm there!

[Marv]

In the darkness, he waits...



Been driving the work ute around lately and only had to give that back the other day. Noticed my brake pedal was super-spongey (almost hitting the floor!). With the car pulling slightly to the left, it was found to be a sloppy driver's side wheel bearing. Last night I changed it over by replacing the whole hub with one bought from a wrecker. It is actually a quick job so long as you're prepared. I changed the whole hub as 99% of the time when a wheel bearing flogs out on a Subaru it will destroy the hub. Even 1-2mm of wear on the bearing race is enough to mean that your new bearing won't last 1000km.

I didn't take pics, but here's the process anyway. You'll need 19mm spanners/sockets, plus 14/17/32mm sockets and spanners, a hammer, a cable tie/rope/twine, some Inox/WD40/RP7

1. Before you jack the car up, crack the wheel nuts and the 32mm CV shaft retaining nut. You won't get 'em off in the air.
2. Jack the car so the wheel is off the ground. I try to get it about 20cm off the ground to give me decent working room. Use stands under the chassis rails. YOu'll need 'em.
3. Pull the wheel off, slide it under the car.
4. Undo split-pin on the tie rod castle nut (on the steering arm).
5. Using a 17mm socket undo the castle nut, but leave it sitting on the end of the thread, protecting the thread.
6. Pull the hub full lock towards you and, while holding it at full lock, hit the end of the tie rod next to the thread. DO NOT HIT THE THREAD OR THE NUT - you will only seize it tighter
7. The tie rod end should drop out after a few big belts. Clean it with Inox, then push the hub back.
8. Undo the two 17mm bolts on the back of the hub, holding the caliper to the hub, then cable tie the caliper out of the way.
9. Slide the rotor off the hub. If you have ABS, using a 14mm socket undo the sensor from the back of the hub.
10. Above the balljoint, on the front edge of the hub is a 14mm bolt. Undo that, remove the bolt and then reach in behind the hub, under the CV shaft. There is a split there you need to hammer a large flathead screwdriver into to open the gap.
11. Slide a large bar between the top of the control arm and the chassis, then push down HARD on it. This pops the ball joint out of the hub. Will take some force.
12. Clean up the balljoint with some Inox and wipe it off
13. Mark the position of the top bolt head on the bolt and the shock with a marker. This is your camber bolt. You want this in the same position to avoid getting a wheel alignment.
14. Undo and remove the two 19mm bolts. Top first, then bottom.
15. As the hub falls forward, tap the end of the CV shaft with the handle of the hammer to loosen the splines. The hub should wiggle off the end.
16. Get your new hub and wipe a very thin layer of HTB grease on the inside of the balljoint aperture and tie rod apertures. If its from a wrecker, rotate the bearing and make sure it spins. Get some Inox in there too
17. Slide the hub over the end of the CV shaft and put the 32mm nut on the end. Do it up a few turns.
18. Carefully tap the ball joint into the bottom hole and do up the 14mm bolt nice and tight - not too tight. If you snap that, you're f**ked.
19. Next should be the strut bolts. Slide the bottom one in, but don't do it up. Wiggle the top in, aligning the bolt head with the mark you put on the strut to set your camber.
20. Put the nuts on the end of the strut bolts and tighten the top one first, then the bottom one.
21. If you have ABS, fit the sensor to the hub using the 14mm socket
22. Put the tie rod end in the hub, tighten the nut down and replace the split pin (very important)
23. Slide the rotor over the hub and fit the caliper with the 17mm bolts
24. Refit the wheel (WITHOUT THE CENTRE CAP) and lower the car off the stands.
25. Torque up your wheel nuts and the CV nut. You will need to check them after the first 50km to make sure they haven't loosened (incl. the CV nut)

Should take about 30mins to do

[Xon]

Nice write-up Marv! I'm curious, why would a stuffed bearing cause the brakes to go spongy?

[Marv]

The actual wheel and brakes were slopping around, so as I braked and accelerated the wheel would move, moving the disc, which forced the pads off the disc, pushing them back into the caliper. I had to pump the brakes to get the pads back on the rotor.

I still had brakes, but the pedal went a LONG way down and then I had full bite.

[Xon]

Wow, the bearing must have been pretty far gone

[implanted4]

hey iain.. Paul here..

i never did get round to asking you if you used a dccd box? and if so, what controller are you using?

considering a dccd box myself, the one i have has an open front diff, way too much wheelspinning of the fronts.. its depressing, but bulk torque does that i guess..

you end up using the haltech or selling? if you need some help tuning, let me know bud..

[Matt]

Unsure what project anchorman uses, but ive had a DCCDPro controller for a year now in mine and they are an awesome bit of gear! Highly recommended! And they utilize oem sti switch and thumbwheel so it looks the part aswell

[Marv]

hey iain.. Paul here..

i never did get round to asking you if you used a dccd box? and if so, what controller are you using?

considering a dccd box myself, the one i have has an open front diff, way too much wheelspinning of the fronts.. its depressing, but bulk torque does that i guess..

you end up using the haltech or selling? if you need some help tuning, let me know bud..

G'day Paul,

I've got an 05 DCCD box. No controller ATM but I'll be using a new-gen Spiider's DCCDPro controller that Travers is currently playing with. I'm not fussed on DCCD control ATM as I'm just using the car as a commuter to the station and back.

Haven't touched the Haltech - it's in a box under the bench. I don't want to sell it, but if someone offers me the cash I will.

[Marv]

So i thought i blew the motor in Ron.B. Pulled the motor on fri morning to discover massive crank end float (movement in the crank fore and aft). The clutch and flywheel assembly were falling off the back too. I dont know if the end float hammered the bolts out of it or if it is my unsympathetic driving style or weak bolts, but alex and i buttoned it back up, reinstalled in about an hour amd hes driving again. Yay. With a tick. Boo

Now i kinda knew this motor wasnt going to last to 2013. Ive bought an ej20r short block and heads from Alex's 98 Legacy GT-B and got a free ej20g rs turbo closed deck short motor and some free zero km con rods from another mate. One point five ej20s will turn into one as cheaply but well balanced and carefully assembled as possible, all photographed and posted here to give you guys an idea of what goes into a basic build.

Ive Split the blocks and will use CD RS block.with the gtb crank, ej25 rods. Ill use 2nd hand sti forged pistons with acl race bearings and get the whole lot balanced with the crank oil phasing holes redrilled to offer extra protection. New subaru head gaskets, arp 11mm head studs up top with a mates old set of ported headers and custom up pipe. I will eventually grab a Carl Davey injector rail kit from the uk and convert to oem sti pink 550cc infectors too. At 20psi with my haltech it should make 200kw ish at the wheels

I promise i wont port the heads or go silly with the 280deg kelford cams a mate has. Nosireebob. I P R O M I S E.

[RX25SE]

Do you have a HD pressure plate in Marv?

Subaru engines are obviously abnormal. Most engines with excessive crank end float have chewed out thrust bearings instead of plain old loose flywheel bolts. Talk about an easy fix!

Always happy to see an engine build thread.

[Marv]

Yeah its a grp n exedy hd clutch. Apparently its the most aggressive organic setup you can get?

I dont know wtf went wrong but im babying it til i get this new motor in as i now have zero faith in the bearings

[RX25SE]

Apparently its the most aggressive organic setup you can get?

Dunno man.
I have seen some pretty aggressive organic setups man.

Aggressive.

Man.

[fatcat67]

Hey Marvin.
I got the 3200 pound Jim Berry. Pretty hard core.
I also have Mr Carl Davies side feed to top feed conversion kit.
I was going to use it, then I wasn't, then I was, then I wasn't, then I was. Now I'm not.
These are the ones I have. http://www.carldavey...oduct.php?id=12
Shoot me a message if you like.

[Marv]

Dunno man.
I have seen some pretty aggressive organic setups man.

Aggressive.

Man.

Pmsl. This one isnt made in nimbin

Hey Marvin.
I got the 3200 pound Jim Berry. Pretty hard core.
I also have Mr Carl Davies side feed to top feed conversion kit.
I was going to use it, then I wasn't, then I was, then I wasn't, then I was. Now I'm not.
These are the ones I have. http://www.carldavey...oduct.php?id=12
Shoot me a message if you like.

whaddaya want for it franko

[Richo]

Yo yo yo, Franky baby

If Mr Marv does not pick it up, i might be interested. Need to figure out the best options first with Dougy first


edit: missed it by thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiis much

[fatcat67]

Yo yo yo, Franky baby

If Mr Marv does not pick it up, i might be interested. Need to figure out the best options first with Dougy first


edit: missed it by thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiis much

Hey Richo, it's up to Marvin. If he doesn't want it it's yours.

Pmsl. This one isnt made in nimbin



whaddaya want for it franko

Well Mr Marvin I kinda have to ask Alex if he still wants the kit as we once spoke about him buying it from me but I thought I'd use it at that stage. I had delusions of E85 grandure but now have just realised I care no fark for that any more.
I'll shoot you a message after I've spoken to him, unless you convince him that he doesn't need them as much as you do.

Oh sorry, almost forgot, $150 plus freight, I think that's fair as they've never been used.

[Marv]

Mate no stress if alex wants em. I should be spending what little disposable income i have on gaskets, head studs and bearings

Mate no stress if alex wants em. I should be spending what little disposable income i have on gaskets, head studs and bearings

[implanted4]

iain, your GTB crank is centre thrust yes? and the RS block is rear thrust. going to run centre thrust>? (machine costs worth the difference? id probably stick with the RS crank)

i was under the impression that subaru went back to rear thrust for a reason. That said, mine and micks motors and many other 250+kw ej25s are centre and have no crank end play issues..

if you are interested, i found a URL with an awesome tool for removing valve spring collets, Mick bought one and i used it (see below)... you can buy a valve lapping tool and paste and reseat all the valves for bugger all $$$ plus throw new stem seals at it ($120ish)

http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/




and this was the piston ring grinder.. check all the ring end metal.. that was from the top rings...