430 replies to this topic

[Ben_20EJT]

I went for a 3" turbo back with heat wrapping on the dump pipe, then into a racecat (I think it was 100 or 200cpi) then 3" all the way back to a massive 19" oval muffler with a 3" straight tip, painted black.

Cheers,
Shazza

and i love how it sounds, cheers shazz.

[Sam]

dont worry about changing the headers or up-pipe just go turbo back (dump,mid,muffler)

Ok why is that?

Sam,

I've heard that if you do a 3" turbo back system, then reduce it to 2.5" after the diff that it had proven torque results. I went for a 3" turbo back with heat wrapping on the dump pipe, then into a racecat (I think it was 100 or 200cpi) then 3" all the way back to a massive 19" oval muffler with a 3" straight tip, painted black.

Cheers,
Shazza

Yep this is exactly what I will be doing. Should I just get a dump pipe/straight pipe made up connecting the turbo and the diff back Sti muffler?

[Xon]

If it's the stock up-pipe, change that. The WRX stock up-pipe is apparently not very good. If you've got the spare cash then you might as well change the headers too EL will make more power, but why would you want to lose boxer burble? Might as well buy a Toyota instead.

I will concur with Shaz, 3" into 2.5" diff back seems to be preferred for torque.

As for wiring, if it's the same as a gen2 there will be 2 looms, the main loom which plugs into the ECU and goes into the engine bay, and another loom that runs inside the drivers side guard, runs under the radiator and plugs into the fuse box, alternator etc, and plugs into the super multi joint in the cabin. This one controls the A/C, alternator, fog lights etc.
Send both to Al.

[Sam]

If it's the stock up-pipe, change that. The WRX stock up-pipe is apparently not very good. If you've got the spare cash then you might as well change the headers too EL will make more power, but why would you want to lose boxer burble? Might as well buy a Toyota instead.

I will concur with Shaz, 3" into 2.5" diff back seems to be preferred for torque.

As for wiring, if it's the same as a gen2 there will be 2 looms, the main loom which plugs into the ECU and goes into the engine bay, and another loom that runs inside the drivers side guard, runs under the radiator and plugs into the fuse box, alternator etc, and plugs into the super multi joint in the cabin. This one controls the A/C, alternator, fog lights etc.
Send both to Al.

I have been looking at a set of Stainless steel headers and dump pipe, I will look more into it over the next few days..
Nah, will be sticking with the boxer rumble. For now anyway.

And yep, pulled two out of the WRX, and will probably pull the outback loom and engine out on Sunday if im not busy.




Got the whole exhaust off the OBK today and a lot of the dash.

Received my GFB blow off valve from Morgan..................................Thanks MORGAN!

And am currently trying to fit a piece of plastic in the middle air con vent for the boost gauge to sit.
Ended up cutting a bit of the WRX airbag cover and using it as the bit that will hold the boost gauge.

Getting there slowly!

[Sam]

One question....

Will a GD WRX dump pipe fit the Outback? Or will I have to get one made up?
How do I go about this?

[Morgan]

No worries! Glad it arrived safely

[93tzlegacy]

sam, the dump will go straighjt in, whether its factory or aftermarket, its well documented however that you need to remove the bolt in fire wall - chassis rail braces ( that dont exist on B4) to fit any turbo exhaust.

also with the wiring harness you only need to send the harnesses to Al that have the ecu plugs on them, if you pull out the RH harness from the outback he'll just send it back untouched and you'll have spent hours pulling the thing out.

[93tzlegacy]

headers are a waste of money, 99% of them leak and sound junk.... as for wrx up pipes being shit, there is nothing wrong with them, we have used stock ones before and our quickest RS ( 12.3 @110mph) uses a stock wrx up pipe. if you insist on changing the up pipe, use a catless HKS or GReddy up pipe from the US, both are direct fit, no flex joint and great items.

[Sam]

sam, the dump will go straighjt in, whether its factory or aftermarket, its well documented however that you need to remove the bolt in fire wall - chassis rail braces ( that dont exist on B4) to fit any turbo exhaust.

also with the wiring harness you only need to send the harnesses to Al that have the ecu plugs on them, if you pull out the RH harness from the outback he'll just send it back untouched and you'll have spent hours pulling the thing out.

Ok thanks for the advice Ben, I will hopefully be sending the looms up to Al on Monday.
So which loom do I have to keep in the car?

headers are a waste of money, 99% of them leak and sound junk.... as for wrx up pipes being shit, there is nothing wrong with them, we have used stock ones before and our quickest RS ( 12.3 @110mph) uses a stock wrx up pipe. if you insist on changing the up pipe, use a catless HKS or GReddy up pipe from the US, both are direct fit, no flex joint and great items.

Wish I had of seen this message before i bought a brand new set of Stainless Steel headers and Dump Pipe... :/
Nevertheless, the stock ones on the car looked a little worse for wear so its not all that bad.

Hopefully will see them early next week, being sent from Sydney.

[cameron]

headers are a waste of money, 99% of them leak and sound junk.... as for wrx up pipes being shit, there is nothing wrong with them, we have used stock ones before and our quickest RS ( 12.3 @110mph) uses a stock wrx up pipe. if you insist on changing the up pipe, use a catless HKS or GReddy up pipe from the US, both are direct fit, no flex joint and great items.

+1 your 04 cut runs a catless uppipe anyway so your not going to see much gain from it. the headers standard are great just have a look around rexnet at the builds. for the power your going to run with the td04 or be it any other bolt on turbo without internal work theres not point changing them.

[Sam]

+1 your 04 cut runs a catless uppipe anyway so your not going to see much gain from it. the headers standard are great just have a look around rexnet at the builds. for the power your going to run with the td04 or be it any other bolt on turbo without internal work theres not point changing them.

Best thing is, they just called me and said that they opened the box at their warehouse and the wrong headers were in the box. So they are going to refund the whole amount.
So thanks for all the advice guys.. Will keep the stock headers.

[93tzlegacy]

just pull the harness out of the outback that plugs into the ecu, send that and the one that plugs into the WRX ecu.

[Sam]

Update time...



Pulled both the wiring harnesses out of the outback last night, as I will be getting all new zip tie pluggy things as the majority were broken. (the things that stop the wiring from moving).



Sent both the ECU harnesses to Al up at AMauto, found out that he wont be able to start working on it until at least the 11th July..
Huge bummer as I have to ride my bike around for a few weeks until the car is ready.

Tonight, pulled the engine, gearbox etc out of the outback and is almost ready for the new engine to be put back in.
Just have to rearrange the back diff, and we should be sweet.




Got a new Stainless Steel dump pipe which should arrive this week, also a new reinforcement bar coming tomorrow.
Am going to get my front bumper fixed, not replaced and then ready for some fresh paint in the not so distant future.



Already have a buyer for the block, so will be putting it on a pallet tomorrow and sending it to Bryce.



Annnnnndddd..... my new plates arrived, just have to go down to the RMS (RTA) and pick them up!

[alexGT]

If it's the stock up-pipe, change that. The WRX stock up-pipe is apparently not very good. If you've got the spare cash then you might as well change the headers too EL will make more power, but why would you want to lose boxer burble? Might as well buy a Toyota instead.

I will concur with Shaz, 3" into 2.5" diff back seems to be preferred for torque.

As for wiring, if it's the same as a gen2 there will be 2 looms, the main loom which plugs into the ECU and goes into the engine bay, and another loom that runs inside the drivers side guard, runs under the radiator and plugs into the fuse box, alternator etc, and plugs into the super multi joint in the cabin. This one controls the A/C, alternator, fog lights etc.
Send both to Al.

nothing wrong with stock headers and up-pipe. running standard on my car too they dont become a restriction till >230.

3" tbe to 2.5" diffback is the way to go on 2.0, marginal gains in torque in the midrange.

don't rush this job, do it right properly ensure all clips and bolts are done back up on the dash you don't want any rattles after you have put it back together.

[Sam]

nothing wrong with stock headers and up-pipe. running standard on my car too they dont become a restriction till >230.

3" tbe to 2.5" diffback is the way to go on 2.0, marginal gains in torque in the midrange.

don't rush this job, do it right properly ensure all clips and bolts are done back up on the dash you don't want any rattles after you have put it back together.

Cool, will be leaving the stock headers and up pipe then.
Yeah, I have until at least the 11th of July to put the new engine in, and the other loom, so will be doing it as good as possible.

Where would I get all the clips and that sort of thing from?

[Xon]

Subaru. Some of the clips on the loom are weird and wonderful, I'd be surprised if you can find them elsewhere.

FYI, it's pretty easy to put the loom back in with the new engine in place, so if you're too excited to wait there's nothing wrong with putting the WRX motor in

[Sam]

Subaru. Some of the clips on the loom are weird and wonderful, I'd be surprised if you can find them elsewhere.

FYI, it's pretty easy to put the loom back in with the new engine in place, so if you're too excited to wait there's nothing wrong with putting the WRX motor in

I think I'll use what I have left from the two engines, and if I need anymore I'll get them genuine.

And yep, that's the plan

[Xon]

Honestly, if you've broken some of the clips beyond repair you could probably just use electrical tape to hold it in place. I've got all manor of shit floating around behind the dash unsecured (fuel pump controller, alarm module, the plug harness thing that the dash connects to that I broke the tabs off of) and there's no rattles from the dash. You can get away with a fair bit
Mind you, if you can it's better to secure them. It's such a pain in the ass to take the dash out again later.

[Sam]

Honestly, if you've broken some of the clips beyond repair you could probably just use electrical tape to hold it in place. I've got all manor of shit floating around behind the dash unsecured (fuel pump controller, alarm module, the plug harness thing that the dash connects to that I broke the tabs off of) and there's no rattles from the dash. You can get away with a fair bit
Mind you, if you can it's better to secure them. It's such a pain in the ass to take the dash out again later.

Ill figure something out

[Sam]

Ok so new plan with the engine.

I have purchased a VF22 turbo of DJA, who will be sending it me on Monday.
The loom should be back by the 5th of July, so hopefully we get the engine and gearbox in next week sometime.
Then, need to get a pipe and cat converter put in.
Tune, then engineering.