488 replies to this topic

[duncanm]

meh - 'poxy didn't stick to the plastic so well.
 
$50c threaded irrigation connector to the rescue.. hope it handles the heat ok.
 

 
some fresh Silicon tubing and solenoid back in place. All those on-engine electrical connectors (injectors, etc etc) are getting pulled and sprayed with cleaner while I'm there.
 

 
 
Here's my method for marking where pills are in new hoses (the OEM ones have a pink spot on them). Silicon self-sticky tape (the red stuff). Engine needs a degrease and clean when I pull it.
 

 
 
There's a Bilstein hiding under that black muck.
 


Here's the O2 sensor poking out of the crosspipe with the heat shield removed. Can now get a ring spanner on it and give it a good crank. Removed.

[Adam]

Loving the updates

[Robert]

Awesome.

If I get a half cut, I'm going to do the exact same thing.

[Barbbachello]

Awesome.

When I get a half cut, I'm going to do the exact same thing.

fixd

[duncanm]

That solenoid looks like its the purge control for the vapour canister.

Probably a dime a dozen at a wreckers if my fix doesn't hold.

[duncanm]

Time to break out the big guns:

 

 

Engine out (crikey - how easy is it to pull a Suby engine?  Two bolts on the subframe and you're done!)

.

 

Don't worry about the crazy angle - its quite stable.

 

 

 

Subframe and rack took four times as long - once I worked out I had to unbolt the sway bar and lower arms then undo a plate in the middle of the subframe which kept it captured. Maybe I should RTFM next time.

 

 

 

I'm going to need a new set of steering rack boots.

 

It'll need a good dose of UEC when its running.

 

 

No oil in the plug holes. That's a nice change from my 2.5

 

 

 

... and a (somewhat black) set of platinums

 

[duncanm]

oh, picked up an exedy clutch kit for $250 bucks today, too. Fairly stoked with that, as I was budgeting more like $400

[duncanm]

Grab 'em while you can:

 

  http://www.ebay.com....33fd9ef6&_uhb=1

 

I offered $250 and he took it. Free postage.

 

(Taking a second look, the wording is misleading and I don't think its exedy - but meh).

[duncanm]

just the engine - gearbox will be my outback dual-range, so it stays in the transplant patient.

[Samwise]

 
(Taking a second look, the wording is misleading and I don't think its exedy - but meh).

Yep, looks like it's an exedy copy if yiu read down the bottom.

[duncanm]

Couple of small things tonight.

 

New rear main seal.

 

BBOD: all solenoids tested and lines flushed. The can of compressed air came in handy.

 

 

I was going to attack the timing belt, but it looks mint, as do the idlers (don't worry about the white flecks, that's some shit that fell from above). I figure it must have been changed at 100k (engine has 140k on it). Ditto the water pump.

 

So the question is - do I trust my eyes and leave it till 200k, or replace now?

 

 

[Robert]

Nope, replace now.

It's worth doing while it's easy to get to.

[duncanm]

methinks you're right....  I was just contemplating the sore back I got changing the belt and pump on my outback a few years ago; and I was younger then!

[JDWhiteWRX]

I left mine, car had 108k on it but the belt looked new. Not sure when I'm going to change it actually. My only regret was not changing the spark plugs while the motor was out.

 

Joel.

[Cam.]

I would be removing the belt and feeling all the idlers/water pump.

But at that point you have the option of putting on a new water pump, tensioner, idlers and belt.

The belt look healthy, It's up to you.

It would keep me up at night after a few years.

[duncanm]

Bit more progress tonight... 

 

Timing belt,  idlers, tensioner, etc replaced.  New oil pump seal.

 

I didn't bother with the cam seals (I presume that's what they are) after reading the horror stories of trying to remove cam sprockets.  They all look good - no evidence of oil having wept anywhere.

 

 

 

 New water pump - what a knut of a job it would be from under the car with the engine installed.

 

Interestingly, the old pump had a nice cast impeller.  The new pump is just the usual stamped/bent job, which doesn't look as efficient.

 

 

 

SubyDr - I'm checking over all those hoses in the back under the I/C.. 

[Beckers]

So glad you decided to change the belt & idlers.

Dont play the I'm not sure / it all looks ok game.

 

What's next ??

[duncanm]

ah next... I need to finish inspecting all the coolant lines under the I/C, remove the front loom and vacuum lines (tank, solenoid in LH fender) from the cut, replace steering rack boots, clean up the subframe, clean up the front brakes off the cut, and give the engine a good degreasing. I have to strip the steering wheel of electrics at some point, too; but I might leave that till closer to replacement day so I forget less in the swapover.

 

I think its degrease time tomorrow, and a trip to the local Repco for some rack boots.

 

Thinking about what to do with the bonnet, too. Its white, and the transplant patient is dark metallic green.  I don't want to spend the cash on spraying it yet, so either it'll be a rattle-can job or maybe some black vinyl wrap might tide me over (if it doesn't look too fully sickk 'bro).

 

 

 

By the way - I quite dislike the gold bumpers and trim.. the dark silver option looks much better.

 

I'm half thinking of just stripping the paint off to the underlying grey plastic, as there's a couple of scratches in it anyway.  EIther that, or satin/flat black bumper spray.

 

Anyone got picks of a dark green with black trim?

[duncanm]

nup - want to keep the lift for the soft-roading fun.... but that pic says to me satin black (bumper paint) could be ok for the trim.  I don't want gloss trim that scratches up easy, either.

 

 

Anyone got tips for removing tie rod lock nuts?  Can't get them to budge, and I'm going to round them if I try more with my std ring-spanner open-end.

 

Do I need a flare spanner and more HTFU? - WD40 working on the nuts while I think about it.  Maybe a propane torch and some red-hot nut fun will do it.