64 replies to this topic

[Evil_VZ-T]

Still awaiting on SARD FPR, Haltech 3Bar Map and Injector collars to arrive this week

[Soop]

Nice. Now get a new loom!

[Evil_VZ-T]

After having a good look at the loom when i had haf the dash out the other day, its actually not in that bad of condition. its mainly wiring for the gauges, turbro timer and alarm that are messay. so im going to rip all of that crap out and redo it. also install a new alarm

[CRUISN]

Good work. Messy wiring is a nightmare to go through if something goes wrong.

[3p!demiC]

Gen1's FTW! Car looks sexy, makes me want to turbo AWD convert my car

[Scuba-Roo]

I Love this car And i want ur rims, how do the 18s go with guard rubbing??

[Evil_VZ-T]

I Love this car

And i want ur rims, how do the 18s go with guard rubbing??

With the previous 215/35 tyre it was fine with the superlows, But b*tch of a ride.

I put king lows in and 215/40 profile and it scrub in the rear around Very hard corners or when i have people in the back.

by myself its fine

[Scuba-Roo]

Damn Soop was right

[Evil_VZ-T]

UPDATE,

Over the past few days Mick (DATMAN) from Techworkz and I have been installing some goodies into the car. After Stuffing around trying to get the Haltech To run in my car and uploading 3 different Tunes. We finally got a tune that we could modify to be able to make the trip to the Tuners.

The Goodies Included:
Sard 650cc Injectors
Sard FPR
Parallel fuel rails with "sick bro" braided lines and speedflow fittings.
Haltech E8
Haltech 3 Bar MAP

The car was then Dyno'd.

The result was 171KW's at The wheels on 17.5Psi

Now as you can see in the attached Dyno graph the Boost controller couldn't hold the boost up in the top end of the rev range so it tappers down to 16psi. Now this and The fact that adding more timing by trial and error, more power could not be extracted,

Now i Can hear a slight rattling sound every now and again under boost. which sounds very similar to pinging. (could be the lost hose clamp somewhere in the engine bay though) So ill take the car back next week and maybe try to install the factory boost controller or buy a Haltech boost solenoid to help hold boost.

The tuner was very weary about pushing 18psi through the motor too. Not to sure why as it has all the supporting mods to handle 20psi ish.

Once again a BIG THANKS to MICK from TECHWORKZ

[Soop]

Awesome result mate. I've read that 170-180kw is around the limit for the RS heads, sound about right? If so, then I think your next quest for powahz should include an EJ20r .

[Evil_VZ-T]

Micks heritage made 190Kw's atw's on 19psi with VF34p20 on a dead standard legacy motor. Mine has bigger ports and "larger lift" So theoretically it should push more power.

[CRUISN]

Well done. Aiming for 200atw?

[Evil_VZ-T]

200 was the goal. The car is pinging up top. So im taking it back to get tuned again. It reminds me of the B4 when it pinged.. but that one resulted in a big end letting go

[B4TT]

Nice result on the powahz dude, the coil upgrade... is that mainly for the older model Subies or is it a worth while upgrade on even the B4's?

[Evil_VZ-T]

Mainly the older ones, as they tend to fail under boost. dont bother with your b4, they are fine

[Evil_VZ-T]

Bit of an update, I took the car back we we just wound back some timing untill i can leave the car there for a few days and i will get a nice tune. gearbox wise, Im trying to source a straight cut gearbox from a few guys on rexnet. After being fu(ked around by one guy who agree'd on a deal then wanted more money i have had a chat to dan (b4boy) and i may buy his PAR box if he can source a 6 speed or PPG's. I have the cash to Buy brand new PAR set for $4200 but i have other things i have to do such as new clutch and alarm.

[Evil_VZ-T]

Hey Hey, So today was a day that i had been waiting for a while. Installation of a new gearbox, this one was a My05 8 bolt WRX 4.44 ratio box with PPG straight cut 1-4th and billet selector fork on 1-2. being a 8 bolt gearbox and 4 bolt motor we had to do a few modifications in order for it to fit, such as grinding a corner off the right hand side to clear the turbo and Add a stud to the starter motor mount. Upon this we found out that the previous owner had not used the additional dowels to hold the gearbox to the motor previously. So we stole some dowels from a old RS EJ20T and away we went, We decided to use the My05 WRX front shafts, instead of RS liberty fronts and auto stubs due to their thickness. But in order for them to fit we had to knock off the ABS ring as the early RS's have the sensor built into the hub. The rear was abit more difficult as the WRX outer CV joint had to be grinded down a fair bit to fit as its abit fatter and longer than a RS liberty one. So trial and error with the angle grinder and 1 hour of mucking about we got the rear shafts in. The MY05 WRX shafts and alot thicker than RS liberty ones, so i believe that they will not break with my driving, which is a good thing, We installed a MY03 B4 liberty flywheel and exedy HD clutch (courtesy of Mums old B4) So after half a days work and lots of smashing of heads and fingers the box was done 15 mins before Mick had to go out for dinner. First drive was awesome... whine whine whine whine however i have a problem of 2nd gear not going in properly, Im thinking that the shifter linkages arnt long enough to select the gear. So ill ask around and see what can be done. We used the standard RS liberty one, So that may be an issue. But in the end.. I HAVE PPG'S BITCHEZ

[Scuba-Roo]

Pics! gewd work lance but picsz!!!

[Soop]

How many times on the trip home did you dump it from 7500rpm?