410 replies to this topic

[Jimbo]

I want to handle your brittle fittings

[Jimbo]

Amen.


If it's a bitch of a job, do as much as you can while you're in there. 

[natho]

see the thread B4 INTAKE PIPE FOUND for more info on the inlet. i just fitted one on my B4 and updated it with all the info i wish i'd had before buying one!

 

oh, and definitely do the manifold fuel hoses. mine leaked a few months ago and i got away with just tightening the clamps, but they started leaking again when i swapped the new motor in a week ago. i wish i'd just replaced them while it was apart... yesterday i had to remove the alternator and drivers side fuel rail/injectors to replace those two bastard hoses in the middle.

[LukeFranky]

Righto. Might get my hands on some phenolic spacers and fuel hoses. I replaced the injectors very recently.

[LukeFranky]

Just to clarify, my understanding is that the cheaper silicone intake will suit any Australian 3GEN B4, correct?

[Jimbo]

Yes. All AUDM B4's had the VF33/32 which is what that intake was made for.

[LukeFranky]

Ordered the silicone intake.

 

I'm going to get the phenolic spacers as suggested. I found these: http://www.ebay.com....=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Also, I've never replaced fuel hoses. Is there anything special about them? What's the best way of going about getting replacements?

 

Is there anything else I should do with the manifold off? I replaced the injectors recently anyway and didn't actually need to take the manifold off to do so.

 

Thanks guys,

[LukeFranky]

Well I'm back.

Replaced the intake with a silicone one. I also replaced the fuel hoses and installed some phenolic spacers. While I was at it I made the vac line 1 mod and plumbed my BOV vac line directly to the manifold and removed that extra vac line from it that runs to the intake pipe. All as per the discussion TT guide page.


Lots of my plastic and rubber bits were brittle. I broke the gearbox breather 'F shaped' T piece when I pulled it out. I fixed it by plumbing the breather into the intake pipe only. I didn't bother trying to plumb it up to the manifold too as it was before. It's only a gearbox breather. It won't have any ill-effects? Surely? Well, the clutch has started slipping. Is it a coincedence?


Apart from that, the engine itself feels like it is running better than it has since I've owned it. During the test drive I didn't get any error codes. However, while nipping around town trying not to let the clutch slip too much my old arch enemy 'system too lean' came back. I almost cried.

It seems my list of problems only gets longer the more I work on the car...

[RX25SE]

I'd be taking a good look at the MAF.

[duncanm]

Ok, couple of ideas with the lean.

Its clearly a mismatch between what the O2 sensors are seeing and what the engine thinks its delivering in fuel relative to the MAF.

Your previous black smoke said it was getting more than enough fuel.

So - some suspects:
- check and double check you have no intake leaks. I think you just made a new one by leaving the gearbox breather inlet disconnected from the intake pipe: now you have an air 'leak' when manifold is at vacuum. Find a compressor and check the system for other leaks by removing the MAF and pressurising the intake system (I think an empty tin can fits neatly in the inlet pipe)
- are the O2 sensors working OK? Aus B4 has two, right? Make sure they're sending out the right signals after warm up at idle at least.

[RX25SE]

@ duncanm or KONG

 

Are the MAFs on these voltage or frequency output? (my Gen III is n/a)

[Reevesy]

I have absolutely know idea of how the TT system works but when you say gearbox breather are you actually talking about the crankcase breather?

Because if this is disconnected you are losing metered air.

[duncanm]

FreeSSM reports an air flow sensor voltage - so I'm guessing analog (voltage) for the MAF.

[Matt]

Yep im with reevesy..the box breather goes to atmosphere...not to the intake

The crank case breathes in to the manifold under vacuum...and the intake when on boost. These engines breath pretty heavy..so the crank breather is a very important one to keep flowing properly
I always keep mine plumbed direct to the manifold...but the line to the intake gets a catch can on the loop

Id be getting a new f piece and replumbing that up..as on idle your sucking unmetered air in to it and causing it to lean out....when on boost the pcv (one way v/v) should plug up and stop air escaping

Wgen you removed the pipe off the manifold under the throttle i assume...did you plug it up?

[RX25SE]

FreeSSM reports an air flow sensor voltage - so I'm guessing analog (voltage) for the MAF.

 

How many wires on the MAF? (I don't have a wiring diagram for the TT)

 

I'll assume there are at least four if it is voltage. Could a known good MAF be tested at idle and a couple of RPM points and then the OP compare it to his?

 

From what I remember, the MAFs on these suffer from signal drift as a common issue.