125 replies to this topic

[El_Freddo]

You’re right on that Barbs. I made a decision before I read your post above. Read on to see what’s happening. Apologies for the one pic essay post! BIG day had in the 40° heat of my “shed”…

Today’s effort was a roller coaster ride early on. With this fuel pump wiring I decided overnight to just do a patch wire job and sealed each wire with some heat shrink for the time being. I found a 9-0791 install kit for the DW200 for a good price on eBay so I made a purchase, this will replace the wiring and the sock.

I discovered last night that the DW200 fuel pump comes in a kit that includes the 9-0791 install kit for the same price as the kit I purchased a number of years ago. Bit annoyed about that!

With the temporary wiring decision made, it was done and installed. I put the 20L of fresh 98 that I got yesterday into the tank and decided to flush the input line at the engine end to get rid of any last remaining dead fuel. No bueno.

Looked into it and I couldn’t get the pump to prime. I checked fuses, hot wired the pump at the tank and decided it might be my joints I just twisted together and heat shrank.

I set up a “test bed” on a cardboard box on the ground (because my shed is awesome - it was f’n hot today too!) and found that the pump was trying to turn but was seized. By this stage I was full spewing - what a waste of money etc. After pacing around I spoke with Mrs El_Freddo and told her what was going on - as I did this I shook the pump and I felt the centre of it click a little. Back to the test bed and while hitting the positive to activate the pump I shook it in the same manner and it came to life! Stoked!

Back in it went and purged the fuel line no worries. It’s also super quiet which I was really stoked about - no whining noises! Now waiting on the install kit with the proper wire and new sock in it to fit and forget about this part of the build.

With that done I got the engine to idle really roughly with my ghetto turbo bypass intake system - I borrowed Ruby Scoo’s NA EJ22 intake and plumbed in the IACV and crank vent system, plugged off what wasn’t needed and hooked up the AFM. It wouldn’t start on its own accord without the use of some starter fluid like yesterday - but this time it kept running, albeit quite roughly. But it ran with its own fuel system. STOKED!

I’ve got an exhaust leak at the base of the up pipe, hoping it’s just a loose fitting or a new gasket required. It could be a split up pipe from what I’m told - I’m learning quite a few bits about these machines which is awesome!

At this point I need to make a shout out to RSguy (Rob Z) from the RSLC forum who was very helpful with my questions and requests over the last few days! He’s the only person I know/have contact with that also owns and knows RSs.

I rigged up the cooling system that bypassed the heater core because I didn’t want to hook it up due the PO who put a T piece in one of the lines (driver’s side) with a smaller diameter off shoot that I can’t work out what it’s for. I still don’t have a coolant temp sensor hooked up - I need to source a plug and I’m reluctant to cut one off another loom in the shed that might be used in the future. I’ll get one sorted at some stage. This could be the hard starting issue I’m experiencing.

With the cooling system hooked up I could give it a longer run and found another vacuum leak to deal with. I made a super ghetto IAVC pipe setup with a small section of rad hose, another piece of the factory IACV plumbing and some duct tape! It still stumbles around a bit when idling - not like it’s sorting out it’s idle on first start with the battery reconnected.



Interestingly, even with the 40° weather today, there was still exhaust vapour that could be seen. It didn’t smell odd, but I am running tap water too - this is because I’ll open up the cooling system again soon, I also didn’t want to waste good coolant if there was a big issue to deal with. Hoping this vapour just exhaust vapour/crap from sitting so long and not anything sinister! No bubbles in the remote res so that’s a positive.

And that was play time over. I made it to the goal I wanted to achieve, mind you a few things were different to the original plan (namely the turbo bypass intake setup) and it was two days later than i thought. Can’t complain, I essentially had two days off from the project last week and I still made it before the end of my holidays so it’s a win! Plus my eldest got in on the action for a few days before the stupid hot weather kicked in.

Now it’s dawned on me - I’m into that “10% that takes 90%” zone with the engine bay etc. What needs to be done now:
- clutch hydraulic system overhaul (then it’ll move under its own power!)
- engine mount nuts.
- inspect the up pipe/fix exhaust leak from this area.
- dump pipe gasket fitted (no gasket atm for test purposes) along with all required nuts and bolts.
- buy new turbo elbow - my one is proper rooted with a super dodgy repair!
- pitch stopper rod bolted in.
- charcoal canister mounted and its third line to/from it sorted. I need to work out where this goes/comes from.
- sort out the temp sensor plug and wiring, locate the engine wiring loom under the back of the intake manifold where I think it’s meant to be - intake manifold will need to be lifted for this (fun!)
- sort out turbo intake tract pieces and find the missing bits I apparently don’t have - removed for a catch can by the PO I think.
- source a new brake master cylinder cap - noticed mine sports a split in the centre of it. Not ideal!
- bolt in the auxiliaries and fit the fan belts
- fit the thermo fans

I’m sure there’s more in there - that’s a general run down!

Things will no doubt slow down a bit with this one now. I’m hoping to keep pushing along with it when I can.

Thanks for reading for those that took the time to do so. And another shout out for all the help from Rob Z/RSguy!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

On Friday just gone (31st Jan) the DW200 install kit - 9-0791 - for the RS arrived.

This was fitted on Saturday - again in the 40°C heat. I’m a sucker for it! This time I had to move some boxes of parts that are in storage in the back of the car to access the fuel pump area.

Fitting was a complete plug and play! Stoked!



I failed to get the new retainer clip on so used the old one that seems to do a good job still.

To the left of the hanger you can see the cut and shut wiring I initially used. The heat shrink, even though it was above the fuel level, had gone soft and mushy. Glad I offset the joints, even then I should’ve put them further apart as one had a wire poking out the side of it! MORAL OF THE STORY: get the right fitting kit or have the correct fuel rated items to do the job properly!

Of course before buttoning everything up completely I had to test the fuel lines for leaks and that everything was working. Out came the starter fluid and she fired up no worries (I tried without it but no dice). No leaks as expected. Still a rough idle.

I investigated the up pipe exhaust leak further. Rookie mistake here with my initial diagnosis after sundown last time but a massive bonus - there’s a front O2 sensor port/bung that’s completely open. Hoping that will be an easy fix!

The hydraulic clutch setup is in for an overhaul and a new braided line. I also got a quote on new discs and pads as I’ll need these closer to the time for the roadworthy. I might paint the calipers - seems I’ve got the bug after painting Redback’s calipers. Red will be the go this time I reckon.

That’s it for now - just waiting for the hydraulic clutch operation system to come back as good as gold; and I ordered a new turbo intake elbow too.

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

The tee for the heater core is most likely a "cylinder 4 cooling mod"

SUPPOSEDLY the coolant around the rear passenger cylinder gets stuck so the cylinder runs hotter. Hence the knock sensor being over it. That "mod" allows that coolant to drain into the heater core

OR

heater core bypass cos its fully/partially blocked

Most of the time the pump sock that comes with the aftermarket fuel pumps is rubbish and doesnt sit fully at the bottom of the tank which results in fuel surge earlier than it normally would. Best to use the OEM sock as brown as it is. 

 

A missing coolant temp sensor will cause a rough idle and hard start as the ECU assume its about to over heat at all times basically

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Barbs, some awesome information as always! I didn’t think about that with the cyl-4 coolant bypass. Odd though as the old heads didn’t have a port there for this. I guess anything is possible. I should hook it up again for that coolant flow. I know I’m not building a power monster however any cooling advantage is welcomed.

Heater core is not bypassed. No H joint in the heater hose circuit to cycle coolant before the heater. Should probably put one in just in case though.

I thought as much about the coolant temp sensor but didn’t realise it thought it would be over heating. I cut the joint out the other week when I was messing around with the running of the engine as I figured it wouldn’t do any harm. It didn’t change anything. I’ll add another plug when I get one and it’ll be sorted hopefully.

Interesting about the aftermarket sock - it seems to sit identical to the factory unit. Only real difference between the two other than colour is the factory sock has an internal metal mesh to keep the sock expanded, the DW one is plastic. The extra weight could be the difference. I’ll keep an eye on it.

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

I sent the hydraulic clutch setup in for an overhaul and a braided line. Came back mint last week. I installed it today after sorting out Ruby Scoo’s ignition barrel with the scissor piece stuck in it.

No pics for this thread sorry, not much to show really.

After doing some clutch bleeding research on the RSLC forum for “best practice”, I fitted the clutch MC and the slave cylinders. I had to shave the hard line end of the new braided hose as it was half a bee’s dick too big to fit in the factory clamp. After some stuffing around using the chainsaw blade sharpener it fitted snug, then I had to widen the inner diametre of the retainer clip to slip that in place. I filled the reservoir with fresh dot4 brake fluid and opened the bleed nipple to let it do some gravity bleeding. That went well.

I was too impatient to wait for my senior apprentice to get home so I went for a solo bleed session. I got good pedal feel when it was right down near the floor. I read on the RSLC that the shaft to the MC needed adjusting for others that had the same issue. So I stuffed around with that and it came up really well. I’m pretty stoked - I dare say I probably bleed the slave cylinder too much but I was being cautious about getting air stuck in it. Best bit of advice on the forum was to crack the bleed nipple and push the slave cylinder’s piston back in as far as it would go. I did this once with pressure on the pedal via an extendable pole jammed in to hold it down.

I didn’t see any air bubbles so called it good. I set up my NA system again using a second intake pipe because Ruby Scoo needed hers back again. This time though the RS wouldn’t start. I got some puffs and backfires at times when letting go of the start position, but nothing to keep it going. I’ve jerry-rigged a second CTS to trick the ECU. It didn’t change anything. Noticed things were smelling very varnish like. Thought it best to get another jerry can of 98 as the other side of the tank most likely still had a lot of crap fuel that’s now siphoned across. After this new fuel was added the RS popped and farted to life again. I was at this for ages! But it ran and once I reconnected my jerry-rigged CTS it settled down and idled a bit lumpy for a bit. I dunno if this crap fuel was to blame or if I’ve got a dodge spark plug. Anyway it somewhat settled and now revs quickly when stabbing the throttle. It pushes out some blue smoke, not a lot, hopefully just residual crap in the exhaust - could be wishful thinking too.

Everything else seems good otherwise. Clutch works, so bonus there. Still can’t move it as I need to change the battery terminals over to the larger style ones, and pump up a tyre or two again.

Small steps with each bit of effort. Fans are lined up to be fitted now too, even though I suspect they’ll run all the time - got a code 31 - TPS. I’ll have to double check that next time as I thought it would be the Coolant Temp Sensor… it’s the only code there too.

That’s it for now. Just waiting on the turbo intake elbow and need to find the bolts to hold the fans to the radiator. They’re the main priorities now - the correct CTS wiring is still on the list!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Had to move the RS today and I “drove” it FOR THE FIRST TIME WITHOUT A SMOKE SCREEN!!”

Admittedly it was 10m in reverse then 20m forward with me hunched over to fit in the vehicle, I’ve got the roof lining suspended below where it is factory mounted, but it felt good none the less!

Still NA - and it seems to start well with a good battery. I hooked up one thermo fan and it came on at one point for some reason - but it’s not running all the time, so the check engine light must really be for the TPS. Can someone confirm the NA TPS unit is interchangeable? I’ve got a spare NA unit.

New intake elbow arrived - I’m yet to fit it, and looking at the engine bay tonight I realised I should sort out the heater hoses and everything in that area before fitting the intercooler and associated piping. I’ll get a pic of the two intake elbows to compare the old and the new.

So I’ve got a lot to go yet before I button up the factory intake and this the engine bay sorted. That’s all good though as I’ve got a rear diff locker to swap into our Pajero before a boys weekend in the high county next month. That’ll keep me busy for a weekend or two (hopefully one but I know how projects go…)

Cheers

Bennie