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Bennie's RS wagz

RS wagon

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#101 RX25SE

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Posted 19 April 2021 - 01:15 PM

Pre 90's glue indeed.

 

My Gemini wagon did the same thing. I just left it as the body was toast....


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#102 El_Freddo

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Posted 20 April 2021 - 06:33 PM

I found a few rusty spots under various trims when doing my car. Mainly under the boot seal. Thankfully nothing major but left long enough who knows

 

Yeah it shows up really easy on the white vehicles. Dunno why we got another white vehicle in the family and I should’ve learnt this from asinine the Brumby before we got the RS. Those three are white!


 

Mmmm. Might have to check the gen2 car I have in those spots mentioned. Gen3 I do not care much about as it will be gone once I get another ute. Good to see it's being checked over and fixed though Bennie! Good pics showing the issues to look for as well!

  

Thanks Ben. I wanted to show the issue for others if they haven’t dug in this deep. On the L series or MY it’s easy to deal with this as basic trim pieces come off - not a whole jigsaw puzzle of parts!

The Gen3 doesn’t have this type of ridge, they worked out a different way of doing it and I’ve not looked closely at it. Gen2 could be different and more inline with the Gen3 body too.

Pre 90's glue indeed.
 
My Gemini wagon did the same thing. I just left it as the body was toast....


That sucks Jase. I know a fella that did loads of work on his Gemini as an apprentice mechanic. When it came time to let the car go, no one wanted it and it went to the wreckers/crusher with loads of good bits on it as well as a pearl paint job. He bargain priced it and still no one wanted it. That was about 2004. Now it would be worth a few grand and then some...

Now to try working between shit weather.

Cheers

Bennie
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#103 RX25SE

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Posted 20 April 2021 - 10:23 PM

 
That sucks Jase. I know a fella that did loads of work on his Gemini as an apprentice mechanic. When it came time to let the car go, no one wanted it and it went to the wreckers/crusher with loads of good bits on it as well as a pearl paint job. He bargain priced it and still no one wanted it. That was about 2004. Now it would be worth a few grand and then some...

Now to try working between shit weather.

Cheers

Bennie

 

 

Yeah, mine was a bit the same Bennie. I sold it in 2006 for pretty much the value of the drive-train.

 

I built up a 0.120" oversize G180 1.8l block with an early big valve 1.6 head. CCed the chambers and match ported the head to a modded stock intake that I added some material to the carb mount so I could adapt a Weber 32/36 DGV carbie to it. That sat under a modded Gemini air filter housing that I grafted the center of a Cortina air filter into it so it fitted the shape of the Weber. A Clive Cams camshaft and set of Ford AR Telstar valve springs finished off the head.

Block was decked 0.020" and O ringed to stop the HG from blowing every other week and a set of flat top pistons lifted to compression up to just over 9:1 form the piddly 8.5:1. A set of resized, beam polished and shot peened rods hung off a de-burred crank and a set of full groove main bearings gave the crank 360 deg oiling.

 

I actually used a Subaru part on it too, probably of an L series!!

 

IIRC they used a vac actuator to pull the idle up when the A/C compressor cut in. As I fitted A/C to mine, I adapted one on the Weber and used a Camry vac solenoid to control it via a Landcruser A/C dash switch. Also had a vac heater tap from a VN Commodore on it to cut the heat with the A/C on.

 

Best thing about it was the 'don't give a f#$k body' that went like hell. I used to run that engine out to nearly 8000 rpm each time I drove it!


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#104 El_Freddo

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Posted 21 April 2021 - 08:22 PM

That’s an awesome backstory! Shame about the ending - and the body. All of my vehicles have generally had good running gear (at least they did in the end) with a body that’s not how I want it to be. The family bus is probably the best example we have, even then there’s some known issues to attend to. Will have to wait until summer for that effort...

Thanks for sharing you Gemini story! Link to pics in the GT.

Cheers

Bennie
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#105 RX25SE

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Posted 04 May 2021 - 10:52 PM

Thanks for sharing you Gemini story!
Cheers

Bennie

 

Thanks for reminding me about it!!


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#106 El_Freddo

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Posted 18 September 2021 - 07:58 PM

I finally resealed the rear diff - I think its only been about a year since it came out of the RS to live on my sheds floor. A house move has pushed me to finally get it done. So slack! If we werent moving Id be fitting a factory rear locker to our Pajero and tidying up the Brumby and the L series... this WAS low priority on my list for now. Hand is forced so its done. Next will be to fill with oil and fit back into the RS.

Solid clip in r160 stub axles - I didnt realise the RHS stub axle was longer than the left, I always thought they were the same length internally:

mVdNrU.jpg

The rear cover gasket was pretty much dead. I contacted my local dealer to get an idea on price and availability, that was Thursday, Im yet to hear from them. What I worked out is that the original gasket is metal sandwiched in paper. I know the later model diffs run a metal only gasket so I stripped all the paper off the metal and gave it a small smear of high torque silicone and assembled. Heres the metal gasket in the middle of the paper pieces from each side of the metal unit:

FzD4pD.jpg

Who knew the kids mud kitchen would actually be useful for something other than their mess and entertainment?!

Thats all for now.

Cheers

Bennie
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#107 Barbbachello

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Posted 18 September 2021 - 08:07 PM

Different length stubs/dealies is an early LSD thing. 98~ (i think) they went to same length shafts. IIRC only the gen 1s have the stub axles in the rear diff. Everything else is male cvs

and yep metal gasket and some spooge will work just fine


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#108 El_Freddo

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Posted 20 September 2021 - 12:06 AM

Spooge seems to have worked well as planned. Diff is half installed at this point. Might have an oil leak on the RHS plate that the diff stub pokes out from - it could be a bit of oil I dropped but I thought I got it all in cleanly. Future Bennie’s problem as I’m not messing around with that atm, need it on its wheels ASAP.

Left to do is bolt the tail shaft in, and fit everything on the LHS including the knuckle that was removed to have the driveshaft pressed out of it.

Cheers

Bennie
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#109 El_Freddo

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Posted 24 September 2021 - 05:49 PM

Ok, future Bennie was yesterday. I couldn’t help but think that I’m this close to it that I should just get it done. What a waste of time that was. Seems there was no real leak to stress about - about 100mL of diff oil poured out when I pulled the side plate off (caught it to reuse, it’s clean).

So I might just have some weeping upon swapping the seals, that or I need to do this again and really scrub the shims to get them super clean and maybe apply a very small amount of spooge to the O ring.

Anyway, she’s back on all four which is awesome! Been well over a year I think... now to paint some primed parts, prime some exposed metal parts and then put the tailgate back on it. I’ll also need to tidy up everything in the cab area and prep it all for transport, including the roof lining. The joys of moving (it’s turned out well for us it seems, more on that later).

Cheers

Bennie
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#110 El_Freddo

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Posted 27 September 2021 - 09:06 AM

Quick pic of how my RS is sitting ATM. Some rust work is happening to seal the bare metal I left exposed when the first rains came back in Autumn, she was wrapped up since then with regular checks for any leaks from the tarp (I know, tarp bad, shed good). Still got a lot to do on it but small steps right?!

Foy2bD.jpg

Today will see some primer go on the metal surfaces that were treated with rust buster yesterday. The already primed surfaces will get a sealer coat of paint on them. Nothing pretty at this stage, just stopping the rust to prevent more future work to rid this body of rust.

Cheers

Bennie
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#111 Barbbachello

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Posted 27 September 2021 - 09:15 AM

All progress is good progress


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