80 replies to this topic

[natho]

sounds very similar to something i've seen while tuning, which is basically just mixtures leaning out at different load points. in my case it was a tuning issue causing it. if you reset the ECU, does the behaviour change at all? e.g. disappear but come back after a few hours driving?

 

also, are you running a pod filter now, or the stock intake? in your build thread i can see both.

[Jimbo]

Have returned to the stock intake, pod filter was only ever temporary, can't stand the damn things.

I'll try an ECU reset before I head to work tomorrow morning. I must admit, it's feeling a bit sluggish too, not quite as pokey. 

Have this weekend penned in to do a bunch of stuff with the car, hoping my new fuel filter arrives before the w/end is out. At least I can do one thing at a time to rule it out.

[Jimbo]

Okay. For some stupid reason, I can't see the CEL with the black plugs done up, to even identify a code. Doesn't light up at all and I checked by turning it onto reds and back to see if it cycles the CEL on startup, nothing.

Connected old mate green and it started cycling through the fans and solenoids like normal. Either the CEL bulb has blown or something has gone amiss with the RevE cluster conversion.

I'll unplug the MAF and turn it over and see if it triggers the CEL. If it does, then for some reason the black/green diagnostic plugs aren't letting the CEL illuminate.

Didn't get to attempt and ECU reset this morning, will have a crack tomorrow.

[Jimbo]

Righto. So, I was unaware the RevE cluster doesn't have a traditional CEL, however, it flashes the "power" light. Ran the diagnostics together, went for a drive and got a constant flash so the ECU is clear and reset.

Fuel filter time.

What a wanker of a job. The filter cup is such a dick to get off. Ended up having to use a flat blade screw driver and tap it off around the lugs. I don't know why they ever thought it would be a rad idea to have the filter as part of the pump assembly. 

See photos for comparison of filters. The old filter cup and chamber was full of dirt and trapped sediment, poured it out and it stained the concrete. Nasty.

Got it all back in and it's ready to roll. I'll see how it runs through the week and hopefully it takes some edge off the off-boost behavior. I highly doubt it will make a difference but it's one less service item to do.

[Barbbachello]

There should still be a CEL on the cluster Jimbo. I mustve dun goofed. Can easily be fixed if you want me to guide you through it. 

[Jimbo]

Just an update on this one.

Still having the issue but I've managed to cross a few things off the list. 

Did an ECV rod adjustment to see if it was not closing properly or chattering at low load. No results in regard to the issue but I inadvertently made the TT operation better.

Also, made some adjustment's to the BOV. No change.

Next thing to do is by-pass the BCS and see how it behaves without it in the equation at WG pressure. Following the results from that, I'll change out the sparkplugs. They are one of the last remaining things I carried over from the old engine to the new one.

I actually just did some research on the plugs when trying to decipher the Subaru P/N 22401AA400 which are the ones I bought from Subaru when I bought the car.

Looks like the PN is for PFR6B's, though research suggests using PFR6G's. Apparently the difference in letter mark is for wasted spark vs COP.

I'll have a crack at changing the plugs and see what I get. Maybe my plugs have binned it and in hindsight I should have put new ones in along with the engine!

If I get no change in behavior with everything up there, I guess the last resort will be the fuel pump, then failing that, a bug in the ECU.

EDIT: Spark plugs confuse me. Will PFR6G-11's be fine?

[Robert]

Nope 11 is the gap

Which is way too big for turbo
Should be .8 or maybe even a bit smaller for a tt

[Jimbo]

So does the 11 mean 1.1 gap?

In theory, I need PFR6G8?

Edit: UK Legacy guys reckon PFR7B gapped to 0.65mm. Cars not really modded apart from zorts. PFR6G gapped to 0.65mm souns like ze winner

[Miguel]

Bkr6e, coppers ftw

[LukeFranky]

BKR6EIX (0.6mm) work fine for me if you want iridium. (Not to be confused with BKR6EIX-11, though I'm not sure there is a difference).

[Arfreedom]

Jimbo yep your right. Went to the store today to buy some parts and I ask him if he has spark plugs for my bh5 Legacy, he ask for the engine number and came back and told me the PFR6G is the plug for me.


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[Jimbo]

A few more updates.

I'm finding it hard now to avoid thinking this whole drama is something to do with the AT. Le Manuel conversion is not on the cards for a long shot, so if it looks like it's ready to leave town, a replacement box will have to do.

As such, I started thinking about the myriad of sensors the AT uses and had a crack at retrieving potential fault codes from the AT. She came up clean as a whistle. 

This makes me think the off boost problem is simply exacerbated by the AT and vice versa.

The AT needs some sort of attention with the noise it's making so I'll check the flex plate and TC bolts first up, make sure they're tight. Only problem is, due to the small amount of room, it's impossible to get a torque wrench in there let alone a 1/4 socket and ratchet!

Next up, I have a new genuine ATF filter (PN# 38325AA032, remote screw-on type, for reference of others) to go in. I'll also grab some more ATF line and install the ATF cooler Mark graciously donated to me. I'll drop the fluid on Monday and install the filter/cooler and start again perhaps with some better fluid.

Next up, in search of the off-boost problem I'll be changing out the spark plugs. Again, one of few variables which came across from the old engine into the new one. I bought the existing plugs from Subaru (22401AA400 or PFR6B) and after trawling a few UK/NZ forums it seems PFR6G (.65 gap) is the way to go. Perhaps the current plugs have had it anyway (2 years old).

Failing any sort of improvement with the plugs, I'll then move onto the more serious and expensive business which means either 02 sensor or fuel pump.

Will report progress tomorrow!

[Jimbo]

Update time.

Couldn't get PFR6G's off the shelf so I ended up opting for the 6B's. Checked the gaps on them all, .65 out of the box. 

Jacking the sides of the engine up makes spark-plugs such an easy job! Done in about 20mins, 

Car feels much better. More responsive and much smoother.

Went for a drive out to Autobarn and sad to report the hesitation is still there, though not anywhere near as bad as it was. Only happened a few times on the way there and no instance on the way back.

It's like there's a tennis ball stuck in the end of the turbo, then all of a sudden it pops out when you apply more throttle. A temporary blockage at 0psi is the best way to describe it!

Here's a pic of my old plugs. They look a little tired but okay, I think?

[duncanm]

look pretty good to me - nice and tan coloured, nothing crusty (except maybe that top one).

 

Hope the new temp range is the same as those.

[Jimbo]

Plugs are exactly the same. 

This hesitation is going to be the death of me. I'm getting really stumped by this and it's reaaaaaally frustrating. 

The hardest part is thinking of what variables there. The hesitation isn't always present so something isn't permanently stuffed. Just did a drive on the M4 to pick up the wife from Rosehill Racecourse and the hesitation on the freeway is woeful. It's like it just gets "stuck" at 0psi until you sink the pedal in further to generate some boost, then pow, like a switch it's back on. It's like the O2 sensor isn't passing on the information to the ECU to switch from CL to OL.

I think tomorrow after work I'll try swap out O2 sensors (re-used the one off the old engine, another thing carried over) and see what difference that makes.

[natho]

have you put a wideband on it to see what's going on at that time? what about datalogging with the factory ECU?

[Jimbo]

I don't have any of those resources available, unfortunately. I wouldn't even know how to do any data logging with the ECU, especially given it's Rev A.

[Arfreedom]

Righto. So, I was unaware the RevE cluster doesn't have a traditional CEL, however, it flashes the "power" light. Ran the diagnostics together, went for a drive and got a constant flash so the ECU is clear and reset.

Fuel filter time.

What a wanker of a job. The filter cup is such a dick to get off. Ended up having to use a flat blade screw driver and tap it off around the lugs. I don't know why they ever thought it would be a rad idea to have the filter as part of the pump assembly. 

See photos for comparison of filters. The old filter cup and chamber was full of dirt and trapped sediment, poured it out and it stained the concrete. Nasty.

Got it all back in and it's ready to roll. I'll see how it runs through the week and hopefully it takes some edge off the off-boost behavior. I highly doubt it will make a difference but it's one less service item to do.

Are they 2types of filter or just one?
I have no reference book to check anything on my wagon so I'm really solely on you guys before purchasing.
I also saw an inline fuel filter but Jimbo has an internal one.
How do I know what to buy?
How or where do I go to at least get the specs of my wagon?


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[Jimbo]

Gen3 uses an in-tank filter. Its basically a canister with a filter cartridge.

Run a search on eBay. Easy.

[cowie165]

Jimbo do you want my old fuel pump? Works fine - the DW65C install is just preventative maintenance and for better skids in a few months time. Can shoot it down for $post if you want to eliminate something else?