61 replies to this topic

[duncanm]

check the plug isn't already there wired in -- the manual I have doesn't show a unique compartment bulkhead harness for the turbo. Only 4cyl and 6cyl versions, which both have CC plugs.

[LukeFranky]

Well I just had the front of the steering wheel off. The plug for the cruise switch is there, so hopefully there's plug for everything else. That would make the job a lot easier.

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[LukeFranky]

Does the Rev D B4 have VCD?

[Beckers]

Does the Rev D B4 have VCD?

No

[LukeFranky]

So I have finished wiring this bad boy up. However, it doesn't work yet.

 

When I press the main cruise control switch I can hear a distinctive click from the control module but the light on the main switch does not come on. Trying to set the cruise on the sub switch does nothing.

 

Toggling the main switch activates power on line 11 from the cruise module. This power can be traced through the clutch and brake switches. It also goes to line 1 on the main switch, which should activate the light if line 6 in grounded.

 

First thoughts were a bad earth, but I have taken the earth direct to the battery now and still no change. From the looks of it I'll need to double check every wire is connected right, but I did carefully study the diagrams all the way along.

 

Any suggestions on what I should check first? Otherwise I might have to carefully test the wires on each connector for continuity end to end.

 

If worst comes to worst, I can dig into my wife's car and compare the wiring.

[LukeFranky]

Right. So the system is powering up. The bulb in the main switch had blown that's why it wasn't lighting up.

 

Just finished check all the switches including brake and clutch. All appears to be spot on so I have either matched up the wrong wires to the control module, or where I plug into the speed sensor isn't correct.

 

I'm going to focus on the speed sensor first.

[LukeFranky]

Suspicion confirm. Speed sensor wasn't wired correctly. Must have gotten the ECU plug the wrong way around when I compared it to the diagram.

 

Anyway, I'm up and running. Haven't tried it at highway speeds yet but at 50km it seems to be functioning perfectly. Just in time for a 5 hour drive to Brisy. I'm a happy man.

[duncanm]

awesome.  Job well done.

 

Now lets see how stable yours is at freeway speeds -- my throttle 'steps' are a little too large at cruising speeds due to the responsive TT boost at partial throttle.. it tends to hunt around speed on shallow inclines.

[LukeFranky]

Hmm. It will be interesting to see what happens given my weird boost fluctuations up hills: http://www.subyclub....uationssurging/

[natho]

i suspect that is why subaru never put cruise on a factory TT!

 

Luke, what wiring did you need to do yourself, and what was already there? When i get time I'm going to do this to mine too.

 

Would you mind posting a pic of how the cruise control stalk loots on the b4 steering wheel?

[duncanm]

I reckon with my vac version of the cruise, I can fix it by adding a small volume of air (tank or coiled vac line) to the circuit. Electrically, you'd have to look at the signals to work out how its controlled (eg: the vac one is probably just a PWM pulse burst, while the electric version may be more sophisticated)

[TSG]

I swear mine had a vacuum tank kinda thing mounted near the oil cap. As I said earlier, I have seen that system on Patrol's (turbo diesel probably). It was pretty iffy anyway. Hard to set, and minor adjustments were a pipe dream with the controller. I'm loving the factory cruise in the new one. I'll use it on any long stretch that I need to keep out of trouble.

[LukeFranky]

Wiring:

I used a 7 core trailer wire pack. 8 core would be ideal though as there are 8 wires running from the driver's side to the passenger's side.

 

Main Switch:

You mostly need to wire this from scratch. It gets power from left-most plug on the front of the fuse box. The pin is there but the plug doesn't attach any wires to it so I modified a blade fitting into the plug to attach my own. Power for the illumination can be stolen from the spare fog light plug by swapping out the pins. Just run wires to the clutch switch and cruise module for the rest.

 

Sub Switch:

There is a plug behind the airbag that has all the wires you need. These wires run down the steering column to a plug under the dash. The plug has four pins, but only one of these are connected (it is the power source for the horn and switch). Out of other three wires I cut the two I needed off the plug under the dash ran them back to the cruise module. There is also a wire hanging off the sub switch that needs to be attached to the horn.

 

As in the photo above, I cut out a section of the thin metal bracket behind the airbag to fit the switch. I then used that same metal bracket to bolt the switch firmly in place. You have to cut a hole in the plastic for the switch to poke out. I made this hole too big and ugly so I'm going to get a rubber plug from Autobarn to make it look tidier. However, the positioning is nearly identical to the stock one on my wife's car and it is easy to get at.

 

Brake and Clutch switches:

My car came with a two wire brake switch. I needed to swap this for the 4 wire one required for cruise. You can use a blade fitting to slide on to the old plug to get your brake lights working again. One of the brake light wires needs to be tapped into and taken back to the cruise module, as well as the other two spare wires.

 

Cruise Module:

I positioned this in front of the passengers door, left of the glove box. There's a white electronics box of some sort tucked up under the vent and it has a mounting point you can use. There is one wire from the cruise module that goes to the back of the fuse box. Another wire goes to the speed sensor which I tapped into by the ECU, which isn't far from where I have the module. The rest go between the switches and actuator.

 

Cruise Actuator:

I put mine in front of the battery. This was convenient because all the wires go back to the cruise control module and I was able to run them through a large hole in front of the battery into the wheel well cavity on the passengers side. At the back of that cavity there's a plastic plug right at the bottom of the column. It is behind the wheel, after the fire wall, in front of the door. I cut a hole through that plastic plug and the wires come out nicely beneath the cruise module.

 

Ground:

I joined all the ground wires together and ran them along a spare line I had in my 7 core pack going to the actuator. From the actuator I ground them to the battery. You could probably ground them any where though.

 

 

I'll get some photos up as soon as I can with more detail on what wires you need to tap into. I figured all this out using the workshop manual. All the information is there, you just need to find it. I'll try do a write up so it's all in one place in the future.

[LukeFranky]

Thanks Kong.

Just finished driving it to Brisbane. Went fantastic. Held speed well, even up and down hills. Drove more smoothly than I can. Made the whole trip quite enjoyable actually. Very happy.

[LukeFranky]

Right. Here's the How To. Let me know if I've missed anything important out.

 

http://www.subyclub....o-3gen-liberty/

[Beckers]

Thanks for the write up that you did Luke, plus all the info in this thread.

I'm stripping my old outback loom now, so I can fit it on the TT conversion.

I can tell you that Duncan was very correct when he said is a prick of a job.

This needs to happen soon because driving to HVC this year nearly killed my right foot(2000 Kms return trip) for us Mexicans.

I'm using the GD wrx Cruise Actuator as it bolts straight in.

Wish me luck boys.

[RX25SE]

Good luck you old cubt.

[Beckers]

Good luck you old cubt.

Thanks Jasehoon

[mjdboys]

Did you get the cruise control set light in the dash to work