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MY98 track/rally build


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#141 Nizza

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 11:16 AM

painted, colour came out pretty good, smashed on a 2k clear coat over the top (aerosol) aswell. its not gonna win summer nats but it should hold out against brake fluid and batter acid now

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#142 Nizza

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 08:59 PM

started pulling some things out of the half cut in order to be able to crane the engine out hopefully tomorrow, so while i was removing from one i was seeing what would fit straight into the GC8.

the following things seem to fit pretty well:

 

  • brake booster
  • clutch fluid reservoir (which works really well in order to fit the new larger intercooler)
  • clutch hydraulic lines (they fit but unsure if they will be in the way later)
  • air box (the GD and GC are identical in foot print except the way the box interlocks with the lid has reversed)
  • ABS module (the lines are different in the GD but i reused the GC lines which match up exactly with the pump)
  • fuel filter and hoses

things that didnt fit well

  • resenator for air box (altho you can make it work)
  • wiper water bottle (looks similar but wont fit)
  • brake booster pipe that travels along fire wall (i ended up using the GC one and re routed some new tubing)

heres whats in so far, im not sure if anything ive just put in will end up in the way just yet.

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#143 Nizza

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 05:41 PM

just waiting on some twin scroll parts so i thought i might aswell install the rear sway bar and mounts.
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here are the instructions from white line
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old vs new

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supports actually mount like this, half hanging of the chassis rail
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and in

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#144 El_Freddo

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 09:37 AM

painted, colour came out pretty good, smashed on a 2k clear coat over the top (aerosol) aswell. its not gonna win summer nats but it should hold out against brake fluid and batter acid now
post-880-0-77365900-1513991297.jpg

 

Good work mate. It must be a good feeling once it's all done and you're pulling that masking off. I'd like to do something like this one day...

 

post-880-0-09077900-1515828530.jpg


Nice swaybar! You need to remove the C brackets, twist the swaybar so the ends are horizontal then refit the C brackets - unless you've done a dummy fit ;)

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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#145 Nizza

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Posted 19 January 2018 - 06:52 PM

 

Good work mate. It must be a good feeling once it's all done and you're pulling that masking off. I'd like to do something like this one day...

 
Nice swaybar! You need to remove the C brackets, twist the swaybar so the ends are horizontal then refit the C brackets - unless you've done a dummy fit ;)

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Bennie

if by dummy fit you mean f*&k it right up...then yes, thanks mate


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#146 Nizza

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Posted 19 January 2018 - 06:58 PM

 

Good work mate. It must be a good feeling once it's all done and you're pulling that masking off. I'd like to do something like this one day...

 
 

if i had to do it again ide definitely take it to a panel beater to apply the paint. by the time i bought the primer, paint, full face respirator, made a make shift spray booth, borrowing spray guns and compressors + the time it was hardly worth it (plus the quality came out rubbish).  However i would  definitely do ALL the prep work, rub downs rust buzz etc, then give it to them. spraying that 2k shit is stressful 



#147 Nizza

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Posted 19 January 2018 - 07:40 PM

After 6 or 7 loooooooooong days of wiring loom splicing im about 90% of the way there.

heres both looms 

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ripped apart most of the looms

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all the engine bay/fuse box/cabin fuse box/behind dash/ecu wiring is all from the GD. things kept from the GC were only the DCCD module and thumbwheel, the illumination module (which i fried by accident) and the blower/heater core assembly and controls ie fan control/hazards button/demister/fog lights. so the majority of the work was concentrated to the loom plugs by the drivers footwell that travel to the rear of the car and the passenger foot well plugs that travel into the passenger door

ill spare you all the nitty gritty of the wiring and say some key points

 

  • use these links for wiring diagrams http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals saved my life 
  • the GDB's ecu if far far more interlinked with the general wiring than the GC8. the GDB's ecu monitors everything. especially things you wouldnt expect like cruise control, climate control, fuel guage, speedo etc etc. the GC is basically a bunch of stand alone units working together (In my opinion a far far better way for cars to be wired)
  • hazards button plug is the same in the GC and GD (straight swap)
  • door mirror control plug is also a straight swap
  • 2 wire speed sensors will not work with with the GDB ecu. 2 wire systems in the GC uses AC voltage (not sure on AC or DC) which directly drives the speedo needle. the 3 wire system in the GDBs sends its signal to the ecu which inturn sends another signal to the cluster and it will determine the speed. the only way to keep the 2 wire system would be to "flash" the GD ecu so it doesnt pick up the fact it has no sensor, other wise it will go into limp mode. I bit the bullet and bought a GD cluster (with dccd llights!!!) and will fit that into a GC dash (yes it can be done with slight mods which ill post when it happens)
  • Version 4 DCCD module seems to work with with the GD cluster (colour code on the cables are the same) altho i have to wait till the gear box goes back in to confirm as its just flashing atm indicating a 'limp mode'
  • there are many differences between LHD, RHD, STI, and Aus spec STis in the wiring manual, so be careful. i found out the hard way as the front half of the wiring loom is an AUS sti but the cluster is a non aus sti so the pin out and computers within are different. for example Aus STis have an inbuilt illumination control in the cluster to control brightness where as non aus have an independent illumination module like the GCs
  • apart from that, alot of the colours remain the same, so its not the end of the world

heres a photo of some cluster testing, dunno how this one is green does anyone know what version this is from? all the ones ive seen are organge illumination. I LOVE the green colour, something about that 90's shitty weak green is nostalgic for me

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#148 Barbbachello

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Posted 19 January 2018 - 10:19 PM

Thats probably blob eye dash. Hawkeye got the orange defi esque one and bug didnt have dccd apart from maybe the Spec C which id think would go higher than 180


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#149 sub813

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 10:06 AM

also just pointing out if you decide to go and get adjustable arms try to source a gd sub frame. the reason you do this is that it gives you higher pick up points aloowing for better suspension geometry when lowering the car






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