148 replies to this topic

[Nizza]

went past subaru today for some things, got this quote. does anyone know the gates timing belt kit part number and price for GC8? seems i cant find it anywere. 

 

 

part numbers below for version 4 98 GC8

 

[Robert]

Contact rising sun Subaru
they are by far the cheapest for genuine kits

Also cheaper than gates and dayco

[Nizza]

legend, ill give them a buzz tomorrow for a price

[Robert]

I think I was quoted just under 550 for a timing belt kit and water pump

No seals

That was for an 04 sti Motor so yours is a bit different

[Nizza]

got some very competitive prices from Car Mods Australia for the above

[Nizza]

so all together ill be doing

timing belt
clutch
rear main seal
radiator and hoses
front and rear sway bars and links
group n tranny mount
group n pitch stop
gc8 sti control arms 

made a start today, trying to make way to drop the gear box. got the prop separated from the diff and g box with no dramas but got stuck on that bloody turbo bolt...again

got my off sider giving moral support

[Nizza]

managed to get the gearbox off yesterday, theres the fly wheel, tried for a little bit with a breaker bar to get it off with absolutely no budging. mate of mine brought his air compressor and rattle gun and made short work of it. Anyone attempting to remove one of these should bite the bullet and either buy, borrow or steal a compressor! honestly cant see any other way of getting them off



rear main seal looks pretty leaky



new and old clutch (old one hadnt started slipping yet but had just about no pedal travel)




so heres the bad news.... i was taking off the starter motor bolts and some coolant started pissing from the bolt hole. during my last gearbox swap i must have changed something and the bolt that holds the started has punched though the block wall. must have missed a washer or the gearbox flange might be a little thinner on the new box?

heres what the other good holes look like 


heres the bad one (note the coolant and rust build up)



id imagine the engine would be fine if i bolt it all up again BUT the more i take the car apart the more leaks and missing shyt i find, so im going to give my mechanic a call and see if its worth skipping some steps and going for the 207 block and pretty much stripping the whole car back to start again

[Nizza]

ok update,

spoke to my mechanic guru and have decided to go 207 block. bought a half cut as it includes all the wiring (undamaged ), intercooler, turbo, cross member, power steering rack, abs module blah blah blah. picked it up this week end.














so up to this point these are some things ive learnt about the 207 block
 

• jap spec motors are not forged from onwards of the bug eye 

 

• all australian sti 207 blocks are forged
   
• ​twin scroll turbo setups were introduced in japan from the blob eye onwards (apparently aus models didnt receive them )

this cut is an australian model so it comes with forgies, avcs, and a safe aus ecu to match. hopefully the half cut will allow me to basically swap the ecu wiring straight over, all i have to sort out is what accessory systems are intermingled with the ecu and which i can make stand alone ie move to a switch panel.

now also on the hunt for a  twin scroll setup to match. hoping the twin scroll and avcs makes a good torqey motor
​

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[Robert]

Get a loom splice done
It's worth the money, car will fire up and everything will work straight away

Subaru use an intergrated loom where all the engine stuff is wrapped up with the body related things not woth the effort to patch it all together.

[Nizza]

hey rob, does taking the loom to get spliced involve taking both looms out and giving it to someone to patch together?

im an electrician by trade and was thinking about trying this one out my self and also stripping out any unnecessary/unused accessory cables. im going to respray the engine bay and suede the dash so the cars already going to be in about a thousand pieces, i figure the wiring couldnt be too difficult

edit: how much we talking here for the splice?

[Barbbachello]

hey rob, does taking the loom to get spliced involve taking both looms out and giving it to someone to patch together?
edit: how much we talking here for the splice?

Yes you need to get both looms out and the usual person to do it is Al from AM Auto

I think its usually about $1000~. Keep in mind if its an AUDM STI it will have an immobiliser wired into the loom so will need to use the key barrel and ecu and probably other bits. Can get around that by using a Jap ecu.

Also i think youll find only the V7 207 is forged, regardless of where its from and yup JDM STi have twinscroll from V8

[Robert]

Yep what nick said

and it's correct that all Aus spec 207's are forged
Confirmed it with my v8 engine

Jdm is only v7

[Nizza]

took engine out today





tried to take out the rest of the accessories but realised i need access to behind dash to start removing wiring so left it at that for the day





if anyones interested in parts from the old motor or the whole old motor please pm

[Nizza]

OK, its been about a year, and im pulling the finger out.

over the last few weeks the wiring looms have been pulled out, the bay basically stripped and prepped for a respray. appon removing the engine and some guards i came across quite a bit of rust especially under the battery. 


 rust2.jpg   100.83KB   2 downloads

 rust.jpg   248.73KB   2 downloads
 

was going to sand blast it, went all the way of getting the grit and compressor and then i tried wire brushing it first. came out so well i ditched blasting it

 wirebrush.jpg   154.93KB   2 downloads

[Nizza]

2 days of ruining the skin on my knuckles anddd


 brushedsteelbattery.jpg   114.53KB   2 downloads
 brushedsteelbattery2.jpg   132.02KB   2 downloads
 brushedsteelbatteryradiatorsupport3.jpg   132.27KB   2 downloads
 brushedsteelbirdseye.jpg   121.44KB   2 downloads
 brushedsteelradiatorsupportabs.jpg   118.41KB   2 downloads
 brushedsteelwheelarch.jpg   83.45KB   2 downloads

after buzzing i drenched it in rust coverter, wiped it and put the bare metal in etch

 etchbirdseye.jpeg   148.8KB   2 downloads
 etchradiatorsupport.jpeg   119.13KB   2 downloads
 etchfronton.jpeg   97.94KB   2 downloads

 

[Nizza]

then some 2K primer

 2kprimeabs.jpg   71.12KB   2 downloads
 2kprimebattery.jpg   60.44KB   2 downloads
 2kprimefronton.jpg   80.5KB   2 downloads

[Nizza]

and then took some more stuff out of the engine bay so i could scratch up the old paint to make sure the new stuff has something to grab to.

i just cleaned the fire wall with degreaser and bug and tar remover, used a wet scotch bright scourer and cleaned/ruffed everything up.

also masked everything up.

 readyforbasecoat3.jpg   125.36KB   2 downloads

[Nizza]

bought some Base Coat from VG auto paints. got 1 liter for about $100 in 74F colour code  (which is the 98-00 wrc blue, which goes by alot of different names) when i spray ill post how the colour turned up.

[Niko]

This guy masks.

Nice job man.

[Nizza]

This guy masks.

Nice job man.

cheers