Clutch Issue
#41
Posted 08 July 2011 - 08:50 AM
1200 to 1300 from subi evo
1150 to 1200 cnj motorsports but wont fit clutch if i buy my own to have put in
and waiting to hear back from scorpian subaru
these qoutes about right ?
#42
Posted 08 July 2011 - 12:01 PM
Subyclub, The place where random internet weirdos become good mates
#43
Posted 08 July 2011 - 01:38 PM
#44
Posted 08 July 2011 - 02:05 PM
I would do this.
Assuming you take engine out method.
Buy a supercheap $59 stanley socket set.
All you need is a 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm.
Also 14mm spanners, and pliers, and screwdrivers. and a 10mm alley key.
Undo engine from box(4bolts)
Undo the kinpin and 10mm hex nut
remove radiator
Undo engine mounts 2x14mm
Undo dump pipe 5x14mm
unplug engine loom
Disconnect battery
remove fuel lines
Remove Tmic, or FMIC pipes(easy job)
Jack up box, crane out the engine.
I can do this myself in my front yard which is terrible to work in, in under an hour.
When engine is out, remove clutch and flywheel
Check rear main seal(if gone, replace ~$12)
Replace clutch and flywheel, or whatever is damaged/worn.
Replace it all
Win, and find boobs.
IMHO in a workshop this is a 2hour job, or maximum 3 hour is the apprentice is doing it.
So $100 an hour x 3 hours is well short of what you have been quoted.
Just my 2 cents mate, im all for DIY, especially when its easy.
#45
Posted 08 July 2011 - 03:35 PM
OK,
I would do this.
Assuming you take engine out method.
Buy a supercheap $59 stanley socket set.
All you need is a 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm.
Also 14mm spanners, and pliers, and screwdrivers. and a 10mm alley key.
Undo engine from box(4bolts)
Undo the kinpin and 10mm hex nut
remove radiator
Undo engine mounts 2x14mm
Undo dump pipe 5x14mm
unplug engine loom
Disconnect battery
remove fuel lines
Remove Tmic, or FMIC pipes(easy job)
Jack up box, crane out the engine.
I can do this myself in my front yard which is terrible to work in, in under an hour.
When engine is out, remove clutch and flywheel
Check rear main seal(if gone, replace ~$12)
Replace clutch and flywheel, or whatever is damaged/worn.
Replace it all
Win, and find boobs.
IMHO in a workshop this is a 2hour job, or maximum 3 hour is the apprentice is doing it.
So $100 an hour x 3 hours is well short of what you have been quoted.
Just my 2 cents mate, im all for DIY, especially when its easy.
Good Point
f it ill do it and stop being a lazy **** lol
ill do it the box out way thou as i dont have a engine crane and dont really need to buy 1 as yet
and use the hoist at work
just need to decide witch clutch to put in im leaning more towards a standard clutch as i think puting anything fancy in there will put to much pressure on the gearbox
and btw i hate doing rear seals lol touchy things they are pain in the ass to get them out and a pain to put them back in with out twisting or kinking them lol
#46
Posted 08 July 2011 - 04:15 PM
Cheaper to replace a clutch than a gearbox....
..and you wont develop an unusually muscular left leg.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#47
Posted 08 July 2011 - 05:50 PM
game over mate, easy.
Just undo the shifter linkage, and drain the box before removing the box(and the clutch fork/cv's etc obviously)
If it was me i would put brand new shifter bushings through the shifter, very underrated servicing that makes a world of difference for shift, and box longevity.
The things i would do if i still had hoist access.......
#48
Posted 08 July 2011 - 08:50 PM
Subyclub, The place where random internet weirdos become good mates
#49
Posted 08 July 2011 - 10:19 PM
Unless you're thor you should have a few muscle-bound friends on hand to help out though.
I would have gone to the kitchen, collected a brown bag, dropped my dacks, pinched off a loaf in said bag, done up dacks, stickytaped bag, placed bag in envelope, and mailed it right to your face for being such a tool.
It's ok, sometimes when we herp, we also derp.
#50
Posted 11 July 2011 - 08:54 AM
If you have a hoist you'd have to be batshit to take the engine out IMO.
Unless you're thor you should have a few muscle-bound friends on hand to help out though.
lol true that
ok found my problem
its the clutch fork the fork it self looks fine but where the pin go's thrue the side to pivit it . the pivit arm i believe it is. is broken.
took photo on phone with flash on and could see in there better
atm the clutch fork cuase of the pivot is actualy touching the clutch and when i press clutch is still feels like i have a clutch becuase only 1 side of it is broken
its like its twisted some how
so in any case im going to be pulling clutch out
and replaceing clutch/fork arm/ slave cyl/rear seal / shifter bush's/ and so on like you guys suggested
saves me haveing to do any of that later on
#51
Posted 11 July 2011 - 09:06 AM
$50 worth of welding and some heavy lifting and it was back on the road, and has been going strong for 2 years now.
I would have gone to the kitchen, collected a brown bag, dropped my dacks, pinched off a loaf in said bag, done up dacks, stickytaped bag, placed bag in envelope, and mailed it right to your face for being such a tool.
It's ok, sometimes when we herp, we also derp.
#52
Posted 11 July 2011 - 12:57 PM
Same thing happened to me. The cap covering the pin came off and the pin slid half out. When I tried to use the clutch, it twisted and cracked the landing. Not knowing this, I slid it back in and kept on going. Eventually the landing snapped off completely, and then the other side cracked. End result was this:
$50 worth of welding and some heavy lifting and it was back on the road, and has been going strong for 2 years now.
lol mine does not look as bad as that
the bellhouseing part looks still intact its more like just the pivot pin bolt that go's thrue the center has snaped at the right side where it go's
bell housieng to the fork just below the inspection hole
i was thinking maybe if that is what is wrong of just puting a new bolt thrue and seeing what happens
pm me your mob number can send you pic
#53
Posted 11 July 2011 - 07:16 PM
If that's all that happens you could just pull out the broken pin and slide a new one in - should be fine. I'd love to know how you snap such a large piece of metal sitting in the driveway though.
I would have gone to the kitchen, collected a brown bag, dropped my dacks, pinched off a loaf in said bag, done up dacks, stickytaped bag, placed bag in envelope, and mailed it right to your face for being such a tool.
It's ok, sometimes when we herp, we also derp.
#54
Posted 11 July 2011 - 11:00 PM
if its snapped i have 10 of the bloody things. you can have one.
#55
Posted 12 July 2011 - 08:09 AM
The pin is broken? How the f**k did you do that?
If that's all that happens you could just pull out the broken pin and slide a new one in - should be fine. I'd love to know how you snap such a large piece of metal sitting in the driveway though.
have no idea i did not actualy break it was broken when i bought the car
and bought it off a good mate thats how he said it happend witch i dont doubt as he has no reason to bs about it
im fairly certain thats what it is thats why i wanted your mob number so i could send a pic
of what it looks like thrue the inspection hole to me it looks like thats the problem but could be wrong also looks like i have no throw out bearing
if you or DJA could confirm it would be a great
#56
Posted 12 July 2011 - 08:37 AM
I would have gone to the kitchen, collected a brown bag, dropped my dacks, pinched off a loaf in said bag, done up dacks, stickytaped bag, placed bag in envelope, and mailed it right to your face for being such a tool.
It's ok, sometimes when we herp, we also derp.
#57
Posted 18 July 2011 - 08:06 AM
just also wondering if its normal that the clutch is dissenguageing/enguageing near top of pedal reach ? about 2 inch's from top
and its like its ether enguaged or dissenguaged its really hard to find that sliping point inbertween ?
#58
Posted 18 July 2011 - 12:10 PM
#59
Posted 18 July 2011 - 01:23 PM
It'll adjust the position of the friction point, but not the size of it.
I would have gone to the kitchen, collected a brown bag, dropped my dacks, pinched off a loaf in said bag, done up dacks, stickytaped bag, placed bag in envelope, and mailed it right to your face for being such a tool.
It's ok, sometimes when we herp, we also derp.
#60
Posted 18 July 2011 - 02:45 PM
I did exactly that about 2 hours ago. There was certainly no adjusting it by hand, but a pair of needle nose pliers worked fine.
It'll adjust the position of the friction point, but not the size of it.
yeah will do that but as u said it wont change the sliping points
ether way im just happy i can drive it for now will still be doing the clutch later on but least now i can get it rego'd and come do a cruise with the club
all whats left now is to put RS front bar with intercooler cut out /side skirts/rear bar on / fix powersteering leak
not bad considering i only paid around 2k for it and its a RS Rep conversion
now it will have everything RS. just need to dodgy up the vin from GX to RS j/k lmao
even got heritage leather seats:P
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