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radiator replacement. Liberty B4


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#21 Adam

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:01 PM

Bugger dude!!!

Warranty? If not, Narellan radiators charged me $200 for a new adrad radiator a few weeks back... Seems okay!

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#22 migoreng

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:34 PM

Yes warranty. I'll see what the eBay seller can do for me tomorrow. If he can tell me where the warehouse is, I'm happy to go and swap for a replacement.

Why me? -_- radiator worked well for almost 1000km...

I'll give narellan radiators a call..if they're quicker ill get a refund from the eBay seller.

#23 HowFarToAsgaard

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 06:34 AM

Not baging you out or anything but was this a quality brand? I only ask because I was also thinking of getting one off eBay but I'm always hearing people saying never use eBay parts, but most the time there are some good brands on there. Not so sure about this one ?

#24 migoreng

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 08:16 AM

I've had a few faulty automotive parts in the past...unfortunately it had to be a radiator this time. I haven't heard anything bad about the Golpher brand, I did do some searching and people said it did the job.

What do you guys think about a full alloy radiator? The existing hoses, screws, mounts should fit without issues right?


BRAND: GOLPHER
MODEL: SUBARU LIBERTY B4 TURBO
Year: 2001-2003
TRANSMISSION: AUTO/MANUAL
CORE SIZE: 340 x 686 x 26mm
MATERIAL: ALUMINIUM TANK / ALUMINIUM CORE

#25 aekOne

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:02 AM

I've got a Golpher alloy radiator in the Foz and it's been really good. No issues what so every. And it looks cool ;)

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#26 migoreng

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:17 AM

Thanks Aek, I'm upgrading to the alloy for $50...hopefully it will be fine for years...
I just need to get my car running! lol...Water pump, timing belt, etc can be changed at 200,000km service next year.

I knew when I bought this car that I would have to fix things myself, but it's good. It's my first turbo car and i'm always learning new things.

Asgaard,
Here are some photos of the Calsonic, not sure if that's the part number. Let me know if you need anything else.

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#27 Zac

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:19 AM

Thanks Aek, I'm upgrading to the alloy for $50...hopefully it will be fine for years...
I just need to get my car running! lol...Water pump, timing belt, etc can be changed at 200,000km service next year.

I knew when I bought this car that I would have to fix things myself, but it's good. It's my first turbo car and i'm always learning new things.

I should follow your lead.. still haven't serviced the car since I bought it... :(

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2004 Outback Premium 3.0R


#28 migoreng

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:21 AM

I should follow your lead.. still haven't serviced the car since I bought it... :(


Um, did you want to drop by my place on a Sunday or something? I'll help you do an oil and filter change... with some 10w40 full syn oil. LOL

#29 Zac

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:22 AM


Um, did you want to drop by my place on a Sunday or something? I'll help you do an oil and filter change... with some 10w40 full syn oil. LOL

For reals mate?

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#30 migoreng

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:29 AM

Sure. i've helped a few guys on the Honda Prelude forums in the past. One of them had a broken HID projector so I oven'd the headlight and pulled it apart for repairs. lol.
That's if you want to drive down to Campbelltown...Buy me and the wife dinner. We love Thai food at the local restaurant :P


Anyways this is what i'm getting:

http://www.ebay.com....=item3f183f53a2


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#31 Adam

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:45 AM

Campbelltown...Buy me and the wife dinner. We love Thai food at the local restaurant :P


HAHAHAHA :) cheap service I reckon!

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#32 Zac

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:47 AM

HAHAHAHA :) cheap service I reckon!

Ha... tell me about it.. you ain't that much further Adam..

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#33 Adam

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:51 AM

Bout 20 mins south

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#34 Zac

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:53 AM

Bout 20 mins south

Not far at all... busy on Sunday? Like in Thai food?

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#35 migoreng

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 11:08 AM

To check for stray current will digital multimeters work or must it be an analogue?

#36 migoreng

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 02:56 PM

Anyways I picked up a pocket size digital multimeter...attached negative terminal on negative battery and positive in the header tank.

With the engine off, there's no current...it maybe shows 0.01v for a sec then goes back to 0.00v

I turned the engine, radio, low beams on and heater to 32 degrees...It stays on 0.06-0.07 volts.
Can I possibly do anything to bring it closer to zero?

I haven't received my alloy radiator yet..Will have to wait until 5pm or so which I assume is the last business hour. (Fastway couriers).

#37 Cam.

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 07:49 PM

That reading is high because you have heaps of tap water in the system, I think. I've seen that before. The tap water you are using isn't distilled, Promoting current flow.

Make sure you earth the new radiator with the method I mentioned the other week and with the new coolant. The reading should be below 0.05 volts or 50mV.

If it's not, Check the simple things like your ground wires for the engine and or battery.

Another simple test is: With the ignition on and NO accessories (AC, Radio, Interior light) ect on. Get somebody to turn things on and off while you still have the positive probe in the radiator and have the negative probe on a good earth. It could be something as simple as a bad earth.

Good luck!

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#38 migoreng

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 10:17 PM

Full alloy radiator installed and coolant bled. ill check the voltage tomorrow.

The radiator is sitting on the rubber mounts. Do I still need to buy an earth cable?

I didnt use tap water. I used nulon coolant with demineralised water. I'm pretty sure the mix is close to 50/50, maybe 45/55 coolant/water or so...

#39 Cam.

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 10:34 PM

I would earth it just to be safe ;)

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#40 migoreng

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 06:26 AM


Another simple test is: With the ignition on and NO accessories (AC, Radio, Interior light) ect on. Get somebody to turn things on and off while you still have the positive probe in the radiator and have the negative probe on a good earth. It could be something as simple as a bad earth.

Tested without the engine running and all electrics on.

-0.03v.

Negative stray current. So what does that mean?




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