279 replies to this topic

[Morgan]

"installation is the reverse of the removal procedure"

 

Haha. Pretty much

[Cam.]

I like

[JDWhiteWRX]

I'm not sure how I missed this thread, nice job so far.

[Adam]

About time

[Lukeoly]

HOLY UPDATE TIME BATMAN!

 

It's been a while since I did any decent work on the car and even longer since I updated the thread. My apologies.

I've been putting off pulling the engine as I wanted to do a straight out with the old, in with the new but I'm still waiting on a replacement TGV motor from a supplier and am yet to fit the new timing belt.

I was itching to get some more done despite the setbacks so I decided to pull the engine and driveline. I figured it'd give me a chance to clean up the engine bay unimpeded.

 

LIBERATION DAY!

Time to liberate the Liberty from it's broken N/A engine! 

 

The AC Compressor, Power Steering pump and wiring was already removed or put aside so it was just a case of popping out the driveshafts, disconnecting the shift linkage and undoing the mounts.

 

 

Forgot to disconnect fuel lines – Oops.

 

 

 

Sneaky Morgan (photo ninja) taking progress pics

 

 

 

There's always something that gets missed... luckily it was only the trans grounding wire

 

 

 

 

We decided to pull the trans as well (cause dropping one in the driveway sucks)

 

 

 

And it's out.

 

Our shed isn't built yet so the swap is happening in the driveway (which is a challenge of itself) but it also means space is just about nil.

To help move and store the old engine while we figure out what to do with it, we decided to split it up into chunks. I'm still amazed how easy it was to strip down.

 

 

Nasty! So much carbon buildup, it came off in chunks!

 

 

Obligatory owner in engine bay shot:

 

In the end it was a pretty fun arvo. When you're used to needing to put a car back together to drive it the next day, having a project like this has been really fun and pretty relaxed.

 

In saying that, I'm obviously itching to get this thing on the road. The last two things on my list are timing belt kit and the wiring splice (I'm hoping the huge publicity of Marty's Gramps build hasn't booked out AM Auto for forever) but it's really only the funds holding that back.

[duncanm]

Jaysus that's a lot of carbon buildup.
 
Should have run an UEC through it before pulling just for the entertainment value
 
Compare that with Mark's shitbox. I had over 100,000k of oil burning through one cylinder on that engine, and its waaay cleaner.

[Lukeoly]

Jaysus that's a lot of carbon buildup.
 
Should have run an UEC through it before pulling just for the entertainment value
 
Compare that with Mark's shitbox. I had over 100,000k of oil burning through one cylinder on that engine, and its waaay cleaner.

I bought the car with a dead engine. I was kinda hoping I'd able to sell off the short block but with much buildup, it makes me wonder what sort of shape the rings and bearings are in. I'd be happy with a couple of hundred bucks if I can get it.

[Jberg89]

This is awesome mate....keep it up.

[Beckers]

Wow, so much progress.

Can not wait to see this finished.

[JDWhiteWRX]

I got $170 for my old motor, I was just happy to get rid of the 2.5L nugget.

[Lukeoly]

I got $170 for my old motor, I was just happy to get rid of the 2.5L nugget.

Nice! I'd be stoked with that. That's fuel pump money :-D

[Lukeoly]

Update Time!

 

I've spent the last week working out what I need to do to get the R180 diff in the car. I've found that working on Subarus kinda spoils you for thinking that everything is plug and play. The R180 diff has the same mounting points as the standard R160 so actual fitment wasn't going to be much of an issue, but finding driveshafts to match the Liberty hubs (as I found out) is almost impossible!

As with anything out of the ordinary and car forum related, research involves trawling through pages and pages of different forums looking for someone who's tried the same thing. There's a few ideas/methods with varying levels of complexity:

 

• Make Hybrid shafts – I was hoping to be able to use the Liberty outer CV on the R180 shafts but the shaft end thickness and spline count are different on both shafts.
• Use Spec.B Driveshafts – The Spec.B GEN 4s come standard with an R180 but use the regular R160 hubs. I was hoping to be able to source a set of these but Ben from Ichiban has told me the GEN4 shafts aren't compatible with the GEN3 hubs. Thanks for saving me some pain and wasted money Ben ;-)
• Modify the the hubs to accept R180 shafts – This has been documented by other members of the forum. I spoke with Miles from AM Auto about doing this as they've done it before, but I think it's going to work out too expensive to be worthwhile. I can't recommend Miles and Al at AM Auto enough. They're both super knowledgable, no BS, and all 'round cool guys. Each time I've had questions on which direction to take, they've given unbiased and solid advice.

I can understand going with option 3 for a big power build but for what is basically a standard build, an R160 in the right ratio will be more than adequate. It's kind of annoying to have to source another diff when I have proper LSD just sitting there but I'm pretty sure I'm going to sell the R180.

 

I'll be posting a thread in the FS section when I'm 100% sure, but the R180 (plated 4.444 from an STi RA) and the matching drive shafts (hybrid shafts out of an '07 WRX – these fit non-STi WRX hubs) will be up for sale.

[JDWhiteWRX]

I wouldn't bother with R180 either, so far my standard outback R160 with my rebuilt dual range box has been fine and I have lit the tyres up a few times now.

[Cam.]

Smart move.

In my SF GT, I had a V7 STI 6SPD (3.90) into a V2 STI RA R160 (3.90), I launched that car many a time and it never gave me or the new owner troubles.

I'm also running a 4.11 R160 now and it does the job just fine

[Lukeoly]

UPDATE!

I didn't spend a heap of time on the car this weekend but I did manage to drop the crossmember. With the amount of nasty sludge on the thing, I'm glad it's going (saves me cleaning it LOL)

It'd be nice to use an sti steering rack but at this point the standard Liberty rack is going into the GC8 WRX crossmember.


You can see the cutout in the WRX crossmember at the back compared to the Liberty one in front

Does anyone know if there's any issues using the WRX swaybar and control arms?
Visually there doesn't seem to be much difference dimensionally.



The other concern I wanted to stop worrying about was front driveshafts. I had read that the liberty ones could be retained but the Liberty gearbox has stub axles while my 06 WRX Gearbox doesn't. I was hoping that the driveshafts I was running in my GC8 with same gearbox but after last week's rear driveshaft puzzle, I wasn't optimistic. But after getting one of the shafts out of storage, I appears they fit! I haven't measured the length, but the hub fitment is perfect!

[duncanm]

I think you'll find you have to use a turbo swaybar.

 

The NA one has different  bends and will bump on the turbo crossmember dents.

[Lukeoly]

I'd rather use the WRX swaybar and arms (partly because they're already attached LOL)
I think I might still have a whiteline bar somewhere. I should find it

[JDWhiteWRX]

I used the crossmember, alloy control arms, swaybar and steering rack from the xt foz in mine but kept the outback drive shafts to suit the dual range gearbox.

[Lukeoly]

Update!

I actually forgot I never added this to the thread. 

 

The easiest way to run the GC8 engine on the GD ECU was going to be to use a complete WRX manifold. I was lucky enough to find one complete with throttle body, TGVs, injectors and even coilpacks!

 

I couldn't stand the idea of fitting it in its grubby state so I decided I'd strip it down and paint.

 

I entertained the idea of painting it red for about 0.3 seconds but it's not really the style of this build. BLAAACK it is!!

 

So nice without anything on it LOL

 

[Morgan]

So cleeean!