410 replies to this topic

[allpaw4]

I wouldn't be removing pills from lines until you have sorted the issues. If you get it working without it, whenever you need to put it back in to fix problem 2, you'll be back to square one. The TT thread says what size hose you need. I'm pretty sure it's 3mm as the factory stuff is 3.5, but 4 won't hold onto the barbs and pills properly from memory of kongs playing.
Edit - Kong beat me to it lol

[LukeFranky]

Hmm. For the lines I have replaced I used 4mm. It fitted quite nicely. 3mm on the other hand feels very tight. Anyway, I have 3mm so I'll use it.

[duncanm]

I haven't trolled back through all of this thread -- have you tried an OEM intake, MAF and fresh factory filter yet?

 

Da interwebs suggest lean codes are most usually associated with leaks (you've done that), bad MAFs (you've also checked), O2 sensors (ditto) and intake changes that muck up the MAF sensing.

 

Do the plugs all look the same colour ?  May point to a dodgy / clogged injector.

[duncanm]

for testing without boost control - safer to remove the wastegate solenoid control. Run the wastegate straight off the compressor outlet  - which will run WG spring pressure (about 7psi)

[LukeFranky]

for testing without boost control - safer to remove the wastegate solenoid control. Run the wastegate straight off the compressor outlet  - which will run WG spring pressure (about 7psi)

- That's what I meant about removing the restrictor pill.

[LukeFranky]

So put in the cam shaft sensor. Car felt a bit smoother. There's still a miss fire at idle though. Went for a drive, too lean. Not that I expected it to fix it.

 

Ran a line from the wastegate the turbo. No surging whatsoever up to 6psi. I did manage to pick up a pending too lean code but it doesn't trigger as easily.

[allpaw4]

Maybe some gunk in the lines/solenoids? Doesn't make sense that the turbo runs fine on wastegate pressure but crappy on stock boost control. All pills in their correct places, and pills inserted in such a way to allow good flow?

[LukeFranky]

Maybe some gunk in the lines/solenoids?

- Possibly

 

All pills in their correct places, and pills inserted in such a way to allow good flow?

- Fairly sure. I did double check these previously.

 

Anyway, what is the goal of connecting the wastegate directly to the manifold? What might that teach me?

[Robbks]

My point is totally disconnecting the boost control line to the WG actuator is to see if it's an issue with airflow within the control system (BBod, solenoids, etc)
if it will boost happily without surging, you know that it's your control system causing it and not the exhaust or the intake airflow system.

if it still runs lean, then that's something else to tackle on top of the control system problems.

SO you've done the "wastegate pressure" test,

now try it without any line connected to the wastegate actuator.


EDIT
there should be no gunk in the lines or solenoids
it should have been the VERY FIRST thing that was performed and checked.
K.I.S.S

EDIT 2

Looking back to page 2.
you've stuffed the original tune on the car by installing the silicone intake pipe.

it allows much better airflow that MUST be re-tuned to suit.

A lean running High-compression B4 is a time-bomb.

a re-tune is going to cost you,
but the problems here and possible fixes will keep costing you. in time and money

this thread has some good ideas
http://www.subyclub....rbo-conversion/

 

[LukeFranky]

there should be no gunk in the lines or solenoids

it should have been the VERY FIRST thing that was performed and checked.

K.I.S.S

- Well I've check all those to the best of my ability, but I wouldn't rule it out so I'm replacing the lot.

 

you've stuffed the original tune on the car by installing the silicone intake pipe.

- I must have missed that memo when I considered purchasing the silicone pipe. 

 

this thread has some good ideas

http://www.subyclub....rbo-conversion/

- Think I'd rather flog it off.

 

I've come to a point where I've already come too far to give up, but I'm running out of options. Might just to cut my losses and cry myself to sleep.

[TSG]

so.. find a regular plastic intake pipe and stock airbox, take it back to stock. Reset the ecu and see if it still does it..

[LukeFranky]

so.. find a regular plastic intake pipe and stock airbox, take it back to stock. Reset the ecu and see if it still does it..

- Can I use yours?

[TSG]

lol. My understanding of the B4 is that any major change to airflow (in or out) will most likely require a tune. But you wouldn't think a silicone intake pipe to let it suck air easier would cause a problem. Mine started pinging and entering limp mode because a mechanic decided a restrictive Repco air filter was 'good enough'. I replaced it with the genuine part immediately and have never had the problem since.

 

If you decide to keep the intake pipe and get a tune, and its running ok. Get an exhaust (maybe turboback) or just a highflow cat exhaust made up to get the full benefit of the tune.

[LukeFranky]

Done some research, I'm not yet 100% convinced the silicone intake is the problem. Many have fitted one without a retune and the symptoms were the same before and after the intake was installed.

 

The surging is a new symptom. Two lines of thought: Whatever is causing the original problem is deteriorating more, or it is a totally new problem.

 

I'm not discrediting your advice. I'm going to think carefully about my next moves and keep trying easy and cheap possibilities while I'm at it.

[LukeFranky]

Right. I tried what you said Robbks. It surges without the wastegate. What does that mean? Failing turbo, bov or maybe the secondary turbo actuator?

[duncanm]

Try blocking the BOV and SPRV.

[LukeFranky]

SPRV?

[LukeFranky]

I will do all those things you mentioned. I have been things here and there as I go.

I am really thankful for your advice.