410 replies to this topic

[cowie165]

Aren't they? Went into Autobarn the other day and they were like $120.

 

$120 is a lot if you aren't flush for cash, but a good quality torque wrench will outlast your car

[Robbks]

Don;t buy a TT Subaru and modify it if you're not flush with cash....

[Matt]

Youd only need a small 1/4 inch one for those bolts...i paid $50 at bunnings and i checked it at work and its calibrated pretty damn well

My 1/2 inch one cost over $100 but

[cowie165]

Don;t buy a TT Subaru and modify it if you're not flush with cash....

 

lol

 

how about an R32 GTR, for next-level money pit. Ask me how I know

[RX25SE]

 

$120 is a lot if you aren't flush for cash, but a good quality torque wrench will outlast your car

 

Correct.

I think I paid about $250 for mine many years ago, still perfect and I have used it lots.

[CRUISN]

I paid under $100 trade / mates rates for a 1/2 drive KingChrome one from Bursons.

[Matt]

I paid under $100 trade / mates rates for a 1/2 drive KingChrome one from Bursons.

Same as i got

$99 from bunnings ...i got that and a 1/4 one for $150 all up

Best tools i used during the whole conversion

[CRUISN]

Well I didn't want to say $70 so I just said under $100.

[Matt]

Haha bargain!!!

Its paid for itself over and over again

[LukeFranky]

Bloody Australia Post! The throttle body gasket I ordered from MRT hasn't arrived yet.

 

Anyway. I have done what I can.

Bolted on the intake manifold and included the phenolic spacers. I gently tightened it up to what I thought was reasonable without using a torque wrench. Used thread locker too. Nothing cracked so far.

Everything is reattached except the throttle body and intercooler.

 

If the gasket doesn't turn up soon I might have to resort to making one. Any suggestions on the best material?

[Robbks]

surely a genuine gasket from Subaru isn't much..?

[LukeFranky]

I have ordered the genuine gasket, but from MRT because they had one. I could try Subaru, but it will likely take a week or so to get one here I guess.

[RX25SE]

Maybe next time try these guys:

 

https://partsouq.com/

 

So far I have had no issues. Reasonable prices and delivery times.

[LukeFranky]

So I just put it all back together with a temporary throttle body gasket.

 

Got all the following codes:

P0340 - Camshaft sensor low input

P0102 - MAF sensor low input

P0171 - Too lean

P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor high input

 

Have only driven it for 10 mins. Haven't had a chance to clear the codes again and try again.

 

I'm suss on the MAF. Every other MAF I tried made the car run terrible while the air leak was present. I might try switching it with the other one I have.

 

As for temp sensor, not sure what to make of that. The battery was almost flat so maybe it won't come back after I clear the codes...

 

Camshaft sensor, I'm thinking battery too as I know it has a dodgy earth...

[RX25SE]

High input voltages to temp sensors usually mean open circuit (sensor not plugged in)

[LukeFranky]

Where is the IAT? Inside the MAF?

[RX25SE]

Probably, not sure without looking at one.

 

Seems to look like the MAF was unplugged when the ignition was turned on.

[LukeFranky]

You were right RX25SE. I hadn't cleared the ecu properly.

Anyway, P0171 remains. Well at least using this MAF.

Using my other MAF the car runs rich at WOT on primary with no code.

Rough idle remains on both.

Quickly smoke tested the manifold. Nothing obvious.

*sigh*

[LukeFranky]

Just ruled out MAF. Tried a mate's identical MAF from a WRX. The same result as using my original MAF. The other MAF I bought must be the dud.

Now I'm doing a full smoke test on the entire intake system.

Upon ruling out any further leaks I'm going to swap the coolent temp sensor. I should have done this while I had the intake off since I already have a replacement. Is it easier to remove the alternator second-time around?

[Jimbo]

Alternator is piss easy to remove. CTS is right behind it.