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Andrew's Green Toaster rebuild - clean and rolling

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#41 andrew_k

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Posted 13 February 2016 - 08:07 AM

Barbbachello: Good question... Realistically at this stage I'd say late autumn / early winter. So many variables at play that stop me working on it. Plus I'm now strapped for cash and still need another cringeworthingly large partsouq order of shiz like o2 & cam sensors, driveshaft boots, steering rod ends, on and on :|

 

motoby: I wouldn't put the calipers in the oven if I had my time over. They stunk out the house with intense off-gassing for a couple hours, and even after serious scrubbing the smell is still in the oven. I'd put together a temp brick oven with a gas burner, which is what I'll likely do for the intake manifold.



#42 motoboy76

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Posted 13 February 2016 - 08:52 AM

Thanks for the tips Andrew, I will steer clear of the oven then.


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#43 Adam

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Posted 13 February 2016 - 12:41 PM

I used my hooded bbq to cure the high temp on my extractors

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#44 andrew_k

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Posted 13 February 2016 - 04:29 PM

That's a great plan. I tried that too in my side-feed smoker, but that smoker has had 30kg of bacon and 60kg of pulled pork through it last year (I butchered 2x 300kg pigs), so as soon as it for up to temp it got way too steamy and greasy in there and I pulled the parts out. A proper gas BBQ would likely be much more manageable. I'll use a diy brick oven anyway because I'm a hoarder hillbilly and that's how we roll.

#45 motoboy76

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Posted 13 February 2016 - 04:33 PM

Top idea think I'll try the bbq when the time comes....


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#46 Barbbachello

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Posted 13 February 2016 - 05:26 PM

I've never cured my high temp paint. Always have left it in the sun and then let the heat of where it is do the job. Haven't had any issues so far

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#47 andrew_k

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 03:26 PM

Learn from my mistake -- If you unwrap a long wiring harness with lots of forks and joins, spread it out and deal with it on the spot, don't try and "neatly" move it elsewhere or you'll wind up with this:

 

wire-mess-1.jpg

 

and you may find it takes you two lazy nights in front of the tv with a strong whisky before you end up with something like this:

 

wire-mess-2.jpg

 

:fork: :fork: :fork:

 

That's the cabin harness from the forester. It has a few bits the WRX doesn't have (eg heated seats, mirror controls in driver's door), so I've broken it down and will repin the rear lights etc of the WRX harness to use these sockets. For the seat heaters etc, I'll combine that with the new larger power wires I'm running for the fuel pump in a second slim harness to run in parallel with the wrx harness.

 

Theoretically this is my only real wiring headache, because I'll be using the GD dash and engine harness unmolested.



#48 motoboy76

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 03:46 PM

Wow Andrew that fist pic looks nasty...

 

I have all this to look forward to.....



#49 church

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 03:55 PM

Will be enjoying the write up for this :)

 

Thank God I'll be having someone look over my shoulder for this part.



#50 andrew_k

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 04:50 PM

Gearbox side of both fronts driveshafts was utterly baked. Grease poured out like oil:
 
1.jpg
 
Did this
 
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Then this
 
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Repeat 8 times, and you're done.
 
4.jpg
 
All boots were reused, they were fine. **** job. CV band tool or GTFO.
 
--------------------
 
Put in GG fuel tank, modified fuel tank wiring harness with 30A supply for the pump.
Replaced with poly bushes:
  - rear trailing arms
  - diff cradle
  - diff outrigger
 
All parts cleaned before re-assembly, all nuts and bolts washed in a big jar of diesel.
 
6.jpg

--------------------

ROLLIN! ...kinda

Too many delays on rebuilding the front suspension/steering/etc, so I put the still-assembled forester front end back on along with the new wheels. Fills the guards nicely.

 

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2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg

 

I can now say with certainty that the only rust on the entire shell is where the battery and washer bottle go. Much good.

 

Now I can get the firewall cut+welded while I'm waiting on spare cash for front end expenses.



#51 motoboy76

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 03:35 PM

Top work on the drive shafts mate...

 

Nice update, keep'em coming.....



#52 Barbbachello

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 02:49 PM

Any updates on this toaster? 


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#53 andrew_k

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 07:27 PM

Not really, had no time at all, and it's taken me months to save up for what is hopefully the last major expenditure to get this built. I put all the wrx interior in to get it out of the house, looks so much better, can't wait to put it in for the final time when it can make it's own "whaaaaaaaamPSSHh" noises.
Looks like I'll be putting this on ice until spring as we're going to sell our house and likely move back to the dandenong ranges. Need to downsize the mortgage and the land to look after.

On the upside the next place will definitely have a concrete garage instead of the laying in the dirt like I am here.

#54 Jimbo

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 07:34 PM

Mate, well done. What a job!


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#55 Barbbachello

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 08:24 PM

Dandenongs are closer to us other cubts too :)

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#56 andrew_k

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 11:14 AM

Decided it would be MUCH easier to move house if the foz was able to drive on/off a car trailer, plus moving all the bits individually would be bullshit so I'm spending my nights in the 0.00°C shed getting this thing put together.

 

Got the sh!ts with notching away at firewall to fit GG A/C and heater lines so I cut the matching piece out of the GG and a mate welded it in. He also welded up the GG steering column mount and my modified GG dash bar, so i'm running out of excuses as to why this isn't a car yet.
 
1.jpg
 
wax & grease remover'd - 
2.jpg
 
Found some very shallow surface rust around the place so ended up scrubbing everything clean, sanding with 240 grit 
 
3.jpg
 
...and started this
 
4.jpg
 
wax and grease remover -> sand with 240grit -> wax and grease 
-> solid scrub of penetrol from a clean rag
-> paint in thinned satin black enamel from a dense foam brush
 
One extremely thin coat on so far, self levelling is going as well as I'd hoped, but LONG wait between coats. When I did this on saturday it was -3°C in my shed when I started and got to a max of 5°C at 2pm. Probably wait a week between coats. Lay down two, 1200grit wet sand, then another over the top.
 
While that's drying I'm buttoning up rear end stuff like ABS sensors, charcoal canister, park brakes
Also finished front suspension ready to go back in when the painting's done:
 
5.jpg
 
New castor offset LCA bushes, replaced bushes on sway and rack, tie rod ends, balljoints, and hub bearings. Everything has been disassembled, cleaned/inspected and treated with penetrol before being re-used. GG gearbox crossmember has been similarly refreshed with upgraded bushes and group n 5mt mount from the SF.


#57 Barbbachello

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 11:37 AM

Noice. Must be shit as working at that temp. Rest of the bay going green or bleck?


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#58 LPM_B4

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 11:50 AM

Looking great should be an awesome car when its finished.

Considered an STI (2.7)/SPEC C FE440 (2.2) while the racks easy to get at?



#59 andrew_k

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 11:55 AM

Yar, working in a dirt shed is never nice, but much worse when it's permanently damp and literally freezing. Esp when you're trying to lay down paint without dust or runs. Engine bay will be all bleck. Got one full coat down on saturday, will mask it up tonight and maybe do next coat tomorrow night.

 

Might upgrade the rack in the future if one comes up at a good price, but for now the 15:1 constant ratio GD wrx rack is a considerable improvement over the 19:1-17:1 variable ratio forester rack. My definition of "easy to get at" has widened considerably during this project :D Anythign that doesn't require engine out or rear suspension out is easy to get at hehe.



#60 Barbbachello

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 12:00 PM

Steering rack really does need engine out haha. The lines are an absolute cubt to get to with the up pipe in the way. Kicking myself for not doing mine during the conversion


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