110 replies to this topic

[El_Freddo]

2.2 is an option for a gen 1 (GX) so engineer/vicroads wont care. People over think this, its about the chassis as a whole not just an RS turbo.

Read vsi-8 about displacement changes to boosted vehicles. From an already registered point of view I wouldn't stress so much but from wanting to get it rego'd I'd rather have it sorted without any issues arising - an issue like this could cost the RWC, booking fee then the cost of engineering if actually required. A risk I'm hesitant to take.
 

However the compression will be rather high and valves will possibly meet pistons. Rocker arm heads are funny like this.

I have it on good authority on RSlib forum that this setup works with the original RS heads. Some go another step further and replace pistons with the same as that from the US version of the RS (SS I think it was called - closed deck 2.2 litre, small turbo and no intercooler!)

Crank and rods could work. 2L cranks are all the same assuming you get a pre 99 one and 2L rods are same same turbo or NA.
If your budget is around 1k someone will have a stock 20G you can jam in and avoid cracking a block open.

I wish my budget was up there - and that I could find one but I'm currently working with what I've got rather than spending money where possible. I'd like to have this running next year before another possible house move.

Thanks for your input though Barbs. At the end if the day with a second set of HGs I could build the ej20h and a 22 with a little more effort.

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

The US turbo heads are single cam and are pretty much identical to the EJ22E heads so cant really take them as an example. Good luck also getting 2.2 pistons. The yanks want good money for even bare blocks as they understand the value of a CDB 2.2. There are forged options but obviously not in the budget here lol.

I couldn't see anything in the VSI about changes to displacement. The onyl way to tell is to look at the casting thats under the PS pump that a RWC person isnt going to check nor is a vic roads inspector. Rebuilding the 20H is probably the best bet. Im not sure if youre on facebook but get into the RS Liberty Club group. Someone will be able to point you in the right direction or sell you a good engine

[El_Freddo]

Last RWC on my brumby the engine designation is the first part of the engine number.

Strangely this isn't the case on my sister's liberty that was RWC'd at the same place by the same mechanic...

Well anyway, I'm now working out how to get all my parts up to benders as they're in storage at my m&d's place an hr away.

I'm keen to get into this (again)!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Got the two engines in the shed now. And I reckon I've got the solution for this:

Use the NA block, crank and rods without splitting the block.
Put the turbo pistons (with new rings) into the NA block. Use matching turbo heads, swap on oil pump, water pump, oil cooler, sump and pick up etc.

All of this swings off the pistons and bores being within spec. If they're not I'll have to rummage through my parts stash to see what can be put together.

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

Should work in theory. As long as the bore isnt fubar

[motoboy76]

Hey Bennie..

 

Thought id pop back in and see how it is all going......

 

Keep at it mate you will get there......

[El_Freddo]

It's getting there. Bores look mint. Now just finding time to get it all together between other things.

Went to a local car club meeting last week. Interesting bunch to say the least. I reckon I was the youngest there and I'm in my mid thirties. We'll see how we go, I have to be accepted into the club before I'm eligible for club rego - and thats a three month process of attending meetings and club events

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

So since my last post on this weve done another house move. And finally Im building some momentum on getting this thing running and most likely on club rego.

Some questions for the turbo nuts out there - Ive got two options:

1) the previously discussed NA block with turbo pistons and V1/2 heads (hydraulic buckets).

2) I picked up a series 2 GT foz not realising its got a phase 2 engine with different intake bolt pattern. Option here is to remove the factory GT heads and fit the V1/2 heads then drop the whole thing in.

I also need a fuel pump. Im not going for all our power. This is more of a build to enjoy a spirited drive in something that has some pedigree so to speak. Whats ppls recommendations and where is best to purchase? Im not fussed on noise, Id rather know its working and keeping good pressure than not.

The list of things I need to do from memory:

- swap rear left shaft or replace the torn boot
- replace instrument cluster backlight globes and reinstall
- sort and fit engine
- remove all grease PO put on main electrical joints. Very odd.
- wash and general tidy up
- clean out the bits stored in it
- swap tailgates - current one had a trailer come off the hitch and run up the back of the tailgate cracking the trim piece and denting the whole thing.
- pull the d HID kit and replace with halogen globes.
- replace the waic coolant pump. Now have a spare to do this with
- check to see if ecu is chipped as this came with what I think is a dead EJ20K with twin turbo heads - main bearing on #1 was none existent and its running a TD05.

Then theres smaller cosmetic things to do down the track.

Any guidance on the engine direction and the fuel pump welcomed. Im 99% sure the GT sf block with the V1/2 heads will work no worries. Its that little bit of doubt thats the killer

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

DW200 or walbro 255 for the fuel pump. Id say DW200 as they are much much quieter than the Walbros.

TT heads on the 205 with the TD05 would be my move.

 

Would probably avoid the chipped ecu. More fuel and more timing on an ecu tuned for 100 running on 98 octane doesnt usually end too well

 

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Barbs, I’ll look into those pumps.

At what revs do you think the TD05 would begin to build boost and then at what revs be on full boost (at a guess)? I realise there are other factors that come into play with these rev figures, a ball park figure would do.

Would probably avoid the chipped ecu. More fuel and more timing on an ecu tuned for 100 running on 98 octane doesnt usually end too well

I need to check to see if the ECU is chipped. I know it’s got a factory looking ECU in it. If it is chipped the way you say, the old engine is testament to how that ends - zero big end bearing on no1 with the piston slapping the head! And lots of smoke to go with it! I’ve never seen or heard anything like it (when it was running, no big end knock).

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

Youd probably be on song by 4k id think but itd be a much punchier and fun car than any of the other early turbos. Plus if you can find a V2 STi 6K ecu itll work perfectly together. 

[El_Freddo]

Thanks for the advice Barbs. I reckon Id want boost to come on earlier so I can punch it around town if I feel the need. Might just have to get a mamba flexible hose kit to help aid this...

In other news I started removing the rear left shaft that has the split boot the other night. First problem - the shaft is stuck in the hub. No easy slidy slidy like other EJ shafts Ive dealt with. And my mallet doesnt do anything in the motivation department for the shaft to start moving. WD40 applied as thats all Ive got to help atm.

So tonight I pulled the whole knuckle out and off to someone with a press. Im thinking Ill check the other side out to avoid the same issue at an inconvenient time. If its the same Ill pull it to get the shaft pressed out too. Everything else has come apart as expected.

The heads will be picked up tomorrow. If I can get them on the over the weekend Ill be stoked. Then in the engine department Ill be waiting on intake manifold gaskets and cam cover gaskets - partsouq is out of stock on these items so I might have to buy locally (wallet wont be happy).

I should also check out the front shafts while the engine is out.

Any ideas on what I should use to clean excess oil out of the intake? Im thinking some carby or brake cleaner might do the trick.

Now to start finding all the necessary bits after four house moves! This should be fun...

Cheers

Bennie

[allpaw4]

Brake cleaner works, and also CO contact cleaner works a treat. Just make sure its off the block beforehand, as it will seep past rings and the like. Oil and this stuff will not be a good mix.

[Barbbachello]

Best of luck getting the shaft out. If theyre stuck, theyre stuck. Have had mates leave them over night in a 20 tonne press to no avail. 

Luckily your hubs arent anything special so can easily swap in another one from pretty much any early car or some GD 2 pot hubs if youre feeling spicy. Only thing that might be an issue is your rear diff. If its got male stubs finding a replacement shaft could be tricky as theyre pretty rare. Hopefully a diff swap isnt also on the cards

[El_Freddo]

Hey allpaw - “CO contact cleaner” - is that a brand name or a specific type of contact cleaner? It won’t get into the engine as I’ll clean it out before the engine goes back in.

Barbs - I have two spare shafts and a parts liberty with what I think are two good shafts in it too. Might have to go on a shaft knocking crusade to ensure they’re all ok! I don’t think I’ll need to swap the diff out, the RS stub axles in the rear are solid and clipped in like the later model shafts do. Hopefully it’s just pul them and put later shafts in if it comes to that. Then these solid shafts can be fitted to my rear diff with the locker in Ruby Scoo (I’m yet to use it!).

Worst thing would be needing to replace the hub as it has the ABS tone ring on it. I’m not sure that this is a common setup on the EJ series vehicles. Hopefully I won’t have to cross that bridge and find out the hard way.

In other news, I picked up the heads this arvo. Very shiny and clean. New valve stem seals fitted too. Now to get them on the engine!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Ok, need some help here:

First GT series 2 head off. Piston is noticeably different - GT on the left, EJ20G/whatever it is on the right.



Im now worried the valves might hit the pistons. Im hoping I can put one head on (not fully torqued down and thinking without the gasket too), refit the timing gear and rotate the engine to find out if the valves will kiss the piston. Also to note, the GT had thin MLS head gaskets, the HG units I got ages ago in prep for this build are thicker composite gaskets (OEM).

I really dont want to swap pistons on this thing!

Heres hoping!

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

Cant help off the top of my head but id defs be fulling torquing it down with a gasket if youre gonna test it. Might cost you a head gasket but the bees dick might make the difference.

[El_Freddo]

Cant help off the top of my head but id defs be fulling torquing it down with a gasket if youre gonna test it. Might cost you a head gasket but the bees dick might make the difference.

I’m now at the point of “bugger it” swap the pistons. Put fresh rings in too.

Will speak with the engine shop on Tuesday (most likely) to see what they reckon. I might even get them to put the pistons in if the price is good.

Cheers

Bennie

[allpaw4]

CRC is the brand for CO contact cleaner, but any of the contact cleaners that are flammable will be the same stuff. NF cleaner is the non flammable stuff, and while it sort of works, isnt as good and eats most types of plastic. I generally keep away from it.

Cheers,
Ben

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Ben, Ill grab a can of that during the week - its going to be a busy one between work, learning at home and gathering/sorting bits for this build.

Had a pretty big one on it today.

I got the instrument cluster back lighting sorted with some LEDs from Jaycar. Apparently you cant/its really hard to find incandescent globes for cluster back lights etc. wasnt overly happy with this but went with it anyway. I forgot to grab a pic of the final product - heres one when I test fitted two LEDs to see if it was going to work - LEDs on the left, old globes on the right:



Got some hot spots as you can see at 4000rpm and at 0rpm area. I played around with roughing up the dome curve section of the LED - it didnt really work. Some white paint (industrial texta) on the same area toned them down nicely so I went ahead and did the rest of them. Im quite happy with the results even though theyre not a warm white, theyre a little on the cool white side for me but its better than no back lights!

I pulled the dodgy HID kit that the RS came with. So bad - super blue! In the process of doing this I had a freak out moment after I put the old skool and power hungry halogen lights back in. I tested them out and EVERYTHING died as soon as I flicked the lights on. Now, for testing purposes, I had the RS jerry-rigged to power up the dash lights. The battery I have that fits the small terminal clamps had very poor charge left, so I ran the jumper cables from our Pajero to the RS - I made sure the starter and alternator ends of the positive cables were isolated so there werent any fireworks.

I went through all the fuses including the one fusible link (why did they keep one of these?? Is it a throw back tribute to the MY and L series?), all checked out good. Racking my brains I wiggled the jumper cable clamps, no change. I also pulled the LHS lights wiring as the factory plug was removed to fit the HID kit using some spade connectors on loose wires, so I was guessing the wiring of the light. While there I moved the negative cable from a bracket that holds the fuse panel to the body mount for the earth strap. Bingo, everything worked and the RHS light worked as it should. I cross referenced the lights wiring and both now work. I reckon the instant load of the lights created a high resistance point at the negative clamp. Moving the clamp location did the trick.

Homage to Barbs:



I decided to pull the ECU to check it out while I was in the drivers area too. This is what I found, RSs ECU on the right, a spare RS ECU on the left:





The RSs ECU has some dodgy looking twin wire setup hanging out one corner, nothing on the other end other than a pair of cleanly clipped wires cut on the same angle as each other. A good mate of mine threw a couple of these pics on facestalk and got a quick reply saying that its got an aftermarket VOS chip and that the wire (which one end has snapped off at the ECUs motherboard) was for a switch for a high boost setting. Not knowing what the VOS entails, I wont be using it until I understand it better.

Earlier in the day with all the engine play time, I stumbled/found this issue on cylinder 2 of the original engine that came in the RS, it barely ran!



That would explain the smoke screen this thing produced when the engine was under load! Cylinder 1 had ZERO big end bearing left (main issue!), so much so that the piston slapped the head and there wasnt any knocking noises at the crank, just upper cylinder noise like a really bad lifter from an EA82 was in there. Sort of like this, but with no power and a massive plume of blue smoke:

https://m.youtube.co...h?v=mEExLcobeHs

A good day/night on the RS. I now know that all my lights except one side indicator are working. Ill grab a replacement at some point. Im having fun finding screws and things that I removed/packed up almost five years ago now. Im glad a mate let me strip out a GX that he got for the engine last year. I kind of wish I went harder with more screws now!

Cheers

Bennie